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Flinkly

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Everything posted by Flinkly

  1. as already stated, trying to understand exhaust components and choices is a never ending rabbit hole. longer is probably better in this case.
  2. USDM facelift tail lights, if choosing between the two. JDM rear lights and garnish look mush less awesome, to me.
  3. if you had stock topfeeds (07+ car), i'd say stay stock for fueling. period. and take a little hit in performance and run what you can on premium. but alas...
  4. Bosch injectors (and thus topfeed) - no experience, but given their low pulse width civility and clearly defined behavior, they seem like the best option given something above stock (although a luxury item in this case, given the complete conversion necessary). I've got topfeed DW850s, and am planning on moving to bosch only for their low pulse width behavior and simplicity in tuning. TGV deletes - i feel this is only useful for the two inputs to the ECU/logging (wideband, boost, whatever...). or if your motor/sensor is bad. not sure that the tiny change in flow is worth anything, and the retune for the difference. but if going topfeed, i can't see a reason not to. Flex Fuel/E85 - I love E85, but unless you'll only run E85, i can't handle the pain of switching maps or the uncertainty/sloppiness of the FF kit. I wish there was more E85 available to switch over to it 100%, and since there isn't (for me), i'll always be on regular old premium. just my 2 cents.
  5. can send it to swaintech for some lightning. ~$125 for a turbine coating, and it's super easy to remove and replace. keep the heat in and look good doing it.
  6. what did they do for the wastegate entry in the turbine? always heard that it helped to round the leading edge and leave the trailing edge sharp, so it's easier to pull gas out of the main turbine path and into the wastegate. can also open it up a little to let it out better. increased control of boost. helps to have a cat too.
  7. repost i'm sure, but seemed appropriate for this week
  8. well, you could also drill and tap your OEM and swap back and not have to mod your tomei. I've been eyeing this place for a 4 channel converter that i can read from an arduino: https://www.playingwithfusion.com/productview.php?pdid=87&catid=1004 EDIT: i guess per cylinder stuff would (of course) be different between ELH and OEM...
  9. But it sure seems like a red X (Shanin problem solving term for major contributor to an issue), and it's been documented (by COBB) and makes sense that moving the reference from right before a single cylinder/valve to the main plenum is improved as far as system noise is concerned. sure, it's not the whole pie, but it's a clear contribution to the issue. Are you still using OEM cast manifolds? may i be so bold as to ask why you haven't tried some 4 channel EGT testing? you seem like the prime candidate for it. i'm sure some development parts and/or funding could be wrangled up...
  10. It does make alot of sense. I work with devices that move liquids, and as things get smaller and smaller, we have more and more issues with building in enough compliance to keep things in check, because working around it with software is near impossible due to the countless parameters that can change between any two events. easier to eliminate the problem than to tune a system around it, at least in this case.
  11. just for clarity, are you saying that adding the 3 foot section of fuel line and changing the FPR reference from the OEM location to the main plenum are the two things that need to be done? I mean, i think we all know (and has been shown) to change the FPR reference for less system noise, but what about the fuel lines need sorting, from professional experience?
  12. I've always been surprised/impressed that MY stumble has never moved from it's rpm spots, or at least seen from a fuel correction graphing standpoint. my biggest spot being ~1700 rpm.
  13. i don't know much about yours, but my AFR controller has a serial output too, which is how i either connect it to my gauge or to a USB interface to a PC. The 0-5V output is for wideband logging and the smaller range is for narrowband (which is essentially what your rear O2 is for - it only tells you if you're at stoich or above or below). but i'll just bow out and let someone with experience with your AFR controller step in.
  14. tune and log are two different actions. One is pulling data from the ECU (logging) and the other is uploading new code to the ECU (tuning). If you hook things up through the TGV (or the rear O2), then it'll all go to the ECU and other than some extra formulas (and disabling TGVs and/or rear O2), it's seamless. so your wideband has a wiring harness that should go into a controller box (which it sounds like you've supplied with power and ground). then your controller should have at least one output (probably 2), and one of those (the 0-5V one) will be wired to the TGV sensor inputs in either the engine bay, or directly into the ECU (passenger footwell). then bob's your uncle.
  15. yeah, from memory i think the rear O2 outputs 0-1.28 volts. who knows what the ECU can accept in, but most widebands output 0-5V for maximum resolution. some have narrowband outputs that are much smaller though, but you'd only know if you were at 14.7, above or below. kinda useless.
  16. strange how i knew you'd be the first to pick up the scent of an un-whored thread...
  17. I've got some custom type K thermocouples made (like $35 each, 1/16th inch diameter probe, high temp), have the swagelock parts to attach them to the manifold with an NPT threaded hole, and even have thermocouple converter chips from Mouser to make some electronics to read them. but alas, i'm no EE and can't get any coworkers to make me a board. Just this week i did find a place (PlayingWithFusion.com) that makes them for $45 or $90 and can read to 1000C (which should be plenty, but type K thermocouples do go to 1350C max) and output it 0-5V (can use a TGV input to datalog one or two cylinders, or just seperately datalog it and try to mate the data together in Excel). Could also convert the data with an arduino and add it back into romraider as an external sensor, but add all 4 temps, but just 4x more time between datapoints. but alas, haven't physically done anything to get it working. i do have tons of arduino's and have written lots of code to do displays and sensors.
  18. yikes. i think i've maxed out at 650lb in the trunk, and that was a slow drive home, and puckered the butt over railroad tracks. i think mine is only "allowed" to carry 950lb total, including people and accessories. And if you get that high, you have to take into account where the weight is because there are axle ratings too, so you can't just have all 950 in the trunk.
  19. just modded my brand new vanity cabinets to fit the undermount sinks we'll be using. did a cutout in that horizontal strip so the bowl of the sink has a place to exist and chiseled out a few layers of plywood from each side to give me an extra 1/8th inch and some wiggle room. overall bathroom remodel is nearly done, just waiting on some trim to arrive, glass shower walls to be installed, and the countertop people who come tomorrow. the new shower used to be a tub, and we removed the old shower and obsorbed it into the closet (which is like a 5th room now. massive...). oh, and need the wife to finish painting.
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