compsurge

Cracked valve stems are no joke. The sodium inside has to be handled with care. http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=48230

Check your plugs. It's the first step you should take in diagnosing misfiring. Check for signs of damage and see what the tips look like. Make sure your harness plug is also not broken and is connected properly.

CV Axle grease or a molybdenum grease should work. I'm not sure which grease is OEM. I just used what came in the Beck Arnley kit from Rock Auto.

Well that's annoying!

Can you get the code cleared at AutoZone or Advance Auto?

It does. I plan on heading to Charlottesville so I'll let you know what my plans are and what is best to meet.

3/4. The front I used the Dremel to get the nut off.

Ok. I'll venture into the attic to check

I'm in Wilmington, DE. I think the sways have 3/4 good end links. I will check later.

OEM swaybars from my '05 wagon are up for grabs if anyone needs a set. Get them out of my attic for FREE (well, I'll get them out - you take them home)! Also, gauging interest on an IPR TMIC with no fitment issues and AVO throttle body hose. Reason for selling: I have been running the stock TMIC and this has been sitting in a box unused. CNT downpipe will be coming off soon as well.

+1 for not spelling it segway. The Tactrix is a nice way to go. You'll find the toolset available to be quite inclusive.

I recommend getting the Tactrix. It plugs in and you read it on the computer. Since you're not going to be programming the ECU, you don't have to worry about bricking anything.

It still sounds like a vacuum leak is possible. Have you looked at your Learning View? Don't reset the ECU.

I don't think you followed an appropriate diagnostic procedure, but hopefully that fixes it. I would recommend you check the plugs first, then swap coil packs, then swap injectors to see if the problem follows the pack/injector.

Any green coolant will work. If you put Dexcool in, you'll have issues... In for the part out thread. I'm fairly confident it was determined that Subaru coolant is Peak Long life. http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=835751&postcount=8

Radiator is pie. You shouldn't have any problems. There are two fan plugs, two supporting brackets, and two hoses to unhook. There is a drain screw on the underside. You will need 1 gallon coolant like Peak Extended and 0.8 gallon of distilled water. I tried to do about a 50-50 mix, but ended up with extra water. The coolant change thread is good for the refill and bleed procedure.

5MT or automatic? Check fit for verification. [ame=http://www.amazon.com/TYC-2778-Aluminum-Replacement-Radiator/dp/B000IYR5LK/ref=au_pf_ss_4?ie=UTF8&Make=Subaru%7C13&Model=Legacy%7C64&Year=2005%7C2005&carId=001&n=15684181&s=automotive]Amazon.com: TYC 2778 Subaru 1-Row Plastic Aluminum Replacement Radiator: Automotive[/ame] [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Koyo-Cooling-Systems-Radiator-11549038309/dp/B004SMI31O/ref=au_pf_ss_10?ie=UTF8&Make=Subaru%7C13&Model=Legacy%7C64&Year=2005%7C2005&carId=001&n=15684181&s=automotive]Amazon.com: Radiator KoyoRad 11549038309: Automotive[/ame] http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1430733&parttype=2172

Check your oil? Also, you might want to look at fuel pressure after injector swap.

Try moving the coil pack first. It's cleaner and easier than the injector.

Dave, have you had any experience with stutter caused by the insufficient wiring to the fuel pump? I'm curious what tuners have seen once the wiring is upgraded (removal of stutter, better turbo transient response, etc.).

I'm not concerned with the emissions inspection. I'll pass with a catless pipe. I hate exhaust smell. It's that simple.

Bungs and hats for everyone!

No emissions check in St. Mary's County. I live in MD for the next 3 weeks.

Since these are OBDII cars, they are talking about meeting the original emissions requirements for the car. It most likely would allow you to run without the RomRaider/Cobb checkbox for remove P0704, but I'd still require a burden of proof before making that statement. You would never want to run a less restrictive downpipe without a tune. Colorado has an emissions test where they do a drive-through under load. I'm not sure if they ran this pipe through there yet, but they did pass the CO emissions station. Invidia (higher quality than CNT) downpipes failed it before. I don't have any inspection or emissions where I currently live. I'm only familiar of other states that just scan for any OBD codes and that the sensors all report ready status.

I spoke with GrimmSpeed, who stated it is OBDII compliant. The cat is sourced to meet the requirements. Others have run the GrimmSpeed cat on the sniffer and passed with flying colors. Cores from GESi carry EPA stamp and run $400 if bought individually. The CNT cat is around 200 cells, whereas the GrimmSpeed is 300 cell. I will boldy make the claim the CNT will likely not pass metered emissions. I alluded that the CNT simply doesn't cut down enough on smell for me and as such I would like a higher quality unit that also produces legal levels of emissions.