compsurge

It takes about five minutes to get the head unit out if you know what screws you need to remove.

Open it up and you'll figure it out in a second This may or may not help. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/installing-removing-oem-subwoofer-harness-subwoofer-177809.html Better photo: http://img470.imageshack.us/img470/4219/2005subharnessmr0.jpg You'd just hook the harnesses into each other.

To better explain: the subwoofer harness wedges between (has a male and female side) the OEM head unit and the door speaker plug.

It's been done. There's even a cable available. http://ae64.com/WRXharness.htm [ame=http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=subaru+stereo+harness]Amazon.com: subaru stereo harness[/ame] You could try this too... http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=265-349

Anyone have any experience with the Polk db6501 for front, and db651s or db651 for the rear? Is the sound the same between the db651s and db651? I plan on running these on the stock head unit (at least for now - not a huge car audiophile) and putting deflex pads behind the fronts.

I had the white plastic clip that the door handle presses down on break the other day. Since it didn't break in half, I used a big zip tie to hold the piece down. It's working so far!

I'm Cryotuned now as well (went open source from Cobb OTS Stage 2). Great experience with excellent communication. My car was always a PITA, but Dave was able to work with its idiosyncrasies and now it drives exponentially better and is smooth and powerful I'm sure when I get bored with Stage 2 and give in to a stage 3 setup, I'll be in line for another tune

Are you using a pipe cutter? If so, just butt it up against the silver/bronze/gold colored part and cut from there. All the cut is for is to allow the top of the new strut insert to clear, while getting the three bumps on the new insert within the old tube (torquing the bottom bolt pulls them in). It just needs to look like this when done (plus the rubber boot that seals the space between the wall and the insert) http://www.v6z24.com/mods/howto/images/koni/koni7.jpg

Very tempting. I'll let SBT get first dibs since my schedule is awful and I'll be out of town for the week. if they don't take them, give me a text.

@BmB. Might be willing to deal - I need teh wintars. I trust your wheel sourcing skillset

Here's the official FS thread for my AP. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fs-md-cobb-ap-v2-2005-2006-lgt-obxt-197361.html?p=4183407#post4183407

My guess would be it's the same issue. I'd suggest finding the part and unplugging it to identify it as the cause. I'd start with this diagram. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_3/climate/heater_system/illustration_4/ http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_3/climate/

I'm uninstalling my AccessPort V2 for 05-06 LGT/OBXT tomorrow. Asking $450 shipped (let me know if that's a crack price). Will post pics with Uninstalled on the screen if I can.

FWIW, you can get rebuilt Brembo units off Rock Auto for $250 /front and $190/rear without core charge.

I have wagons lol. Hella raked stance, yo.

Multiply your pressure test numbers by the ratio of sea level / altitude Patm (1.1 for Denver).

Use the US standard atmosphere chart to find density at altitude.

Maybe it completely died. I'm curious if the part can be rebuilt.

I'm thinking about it. Only if I get my A/F Learning #1A issue resolved though.

What you got?

IPR TMIC anyone? Typical paint chips, a couple bent fins that can be straightened, no real fitment issues using stock TB hose. I'm thinking $300 and I'll throw in the AVO TB hose. Mine fit best/fine with stock TB hose FWIW.

My guess would be either all of your rings are worn or your gauge is inaccurate. My test with a Craftsman tester was 135/135/134/132. When I had it done professionally, it was 140 on all 4 approximately 2 years ago.

Has anyone had injectors as the culprit for AF Learning #1 A being off the scale at 15, but the others being within tolerable limits?

Get a BNR 16g, downpipe, and an open source tune for the price of a new VF-40 or pay about 250 for a good, working one. Don't forget to sell your old broken one for $100 shipped.

You're smoking crack. Looks awesome. Give it a week. It took me about a week of looking at my ABP to realize the gold goes with the blue. To complete the look, you might want to plastidip the grille to have an accent color that ties the wheels in.