compsurge

Mine popped off when playing with them. I guess that makes them removable They did pop back on too. I want to build a cleaning rig like the kind I see on YouTube where the injectors are put on a bench and run forward and reverse flow with injector cleaner.

Try cleaning the injectors by removing the screens on them. I had some particulate in mine at 100k miles. Also run some Techron through a few tanks to see if that helps.

RomRaider. Check the tuning subforum stickied thread.

QFT. It's only a matter of time on these engines

I don't see a major reason to spend $3k on the Leapfrog. It appears to be built well, but $3000 is a bit steep for a machine that is not SLA.

Whoa. Since when have the BNR turbos been coming with BNR in the casting?

Good. I would choose the FFCP over the Makerbot any day. Still waiting on my OpenBeam Kossel Pro. So... Close...

Did you return the Makerbot and pick up a Flashforge?

Can you get a regular J-Head?

Likely.

It won't take too long to figure it out. Tune for the rear bounce and you'll be happy.

Fujibond Grey. You can use generic Permatex RTV, but the Fujibond has other additives in it to make it better. Fujibond Red is for the Transmission. Machined vs. worn would be a difference. I don't remember what mine looked like (I didn't really look closely). Metal will stay shiny if it's machined and oiled, which is the case for most of the engine

What exactly are you referring to? I don't see pics.

For future reference: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1440457&parttype=2284 I got this [ame=http://www.amazon.com/OTC-4623-Joint-Banding-Cutter/dp/B00063XX5U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414763959&sr=8-1&keywords=cv+band+tool]tool[/ame] from Amazon as well.

That's a good call. By the time you're done fiddling around with that one, you might as well get the peace of mind of a new OEM unit.

You can use vise grips and the timing belt (link) to keep tension on the cam pulleys while you get the bolts out. It worked on two engines for me. Others have had problems. I have a set of good hex sockets and I wouldn't try this without them. If it doesn't bulge, it seems that the answer is to whack the bolt head with a hammer and try again (not kidding). I don't know about the crank interference. Intuition tells me that's bad news.

Be sure to check out http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_25/ I found it very helpful for getting part numbers to order from Heuberger. That oil cooler coolant hardline is actually not too expensive if I remember, but rust isn't a big deal - most all of it is surface rust and is not a fully-rusted component.

That hard line is one of the most important parts of your engine. Don't fuss with it. You can scotchbrite and paint it to make it look pretty, but it serves to pass coolant through the oil cooler (top) and turbo (I can't quite make it out of that's the right location). If you must swap it out, use braided stainless steel hose rated for the temperature as to avoid kinks or collapse.

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_42/suspension_and_axle/front_axle/illustration_3/ might be useful in the future.

Don't trick us with a full price deposit!!!

I wasn't impressed with the durability of my IPR intercooler with thermal dispersement coating. I would expect the GS coating to be done better, especially given the price.

In for a group buy. Be sure to cross post here!

Wrong thread. Thanks.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fs-ia-ej255-block-stock-wheels-assorted-n-parts-dirt-228326.html?t=228326

Basically better fatigue life, impact resistance, wear improvement. Maybe less than a percent on some engines and others more, but we're talking about an industry where a single percent is huge.