compsurge

Here's where nitriding is really noticeable.

Those would work. I was more disappointed I was under the car and went to plug the O2 sensor in and I had about 10" of air that couldn't be gapped. I knew how to fix it, it just wasn't a "documented accessory" or something I knew prior to purchasing it. I did it on a Sunday (stores closed early) and didn't feel like having an incomplete project One of the first extensions I found was $30, at which price I'd rather get a universal O2 sensor and crimp it into the original wiring harness anyway. I'm not afraid of cutting and splicing wiring on a sensor. A good crimp will not fail since it essentially cold welds the copper together into one solid piece.

If it ran well and has good compression and passes leakdown, it will work. Does it have a warranty? The EJ255 in the 2005-2006 cars and EJ257 are the same engine sans piston P/N. If you were getting a new OEM shortblock, you'd be buying a EJ257 btw. Subaru has a 12 month / 12,000 miles warranty on their parts. I don't know how they would substantiate it given that unless it's a documented install by a dealer it is near impossible for them to determine if it was correctly installed without a thorough engineering investigation (not cost effective).

And before I forget, buy a new oil cooler. Don't try to clean yours. They're so cheap relatively speaking that it's a no brainer. Could you have lucked out? Possibly. Only time will tell. Personally, I'd bite the bullet now and get the engine out, heads off and inspected by a Subaru shop (valve wear and shim adjustment). A new OEM block will go a long way in your future build. You can sell the old one for a few hundred as well to someone who is looking to build a block up. The OEM block is so cheap from Subaru, it doesn't make sense to rebuild it from parts unless you are cash-strapped and have machinery to bore out the old block (if needed). Labor alone will put you near the cost of a new shortblock.

I just took my CNT downpipe off and put a GrimmSpeed on. Aside from the seemingly undocumented need for an O2 sensor extension (I just cut and added cable), it is far superior. I could actually fit a box wrench on the bolts (!!!) It's like they designed it with installation in mind! It's the little things that count. Little things are details that take proper planning and design process. AND TESTING. If you're waiting for a GrimmSpeed unit it's because you know you want a quality piece and have no pressing need to get an intercooler at this very moment. I guarantee you the FMS knockoff is going to be a POS that requires a hammer for installation.

HP = Torque {lb-ft} * RPM / 5252 I understand what you're saying. Just get a tune. A good tuner will not tune a steet car like a race car. Race fuel is different than pump gas. Your 18g will only put out so much boost and the car will only make so much power. It's not going to blow up like slapping a GT35R on a stock block and running max boost would. The OEM block will work with an 18g A built engine "tuned down" is just a waste of money. My personal opinion is that studs are not needed until you're well into the built engine territory. Experiential evidence on the forum has a few 500 hp motors on the factory bolts. That being said, my brother has an 18g, OEM bottom end, and ARP studs. It has been fine for 2 years and sees occasional "fun".

I meant *permanently remove*, but yes that is a good point.

If it requires the removal of the bumper (not just the cover), I wouldn't do it.

We can always use another data point for built motor reliability Where did BAC 2.5 go? He would have a word or two about the plates. I think there is a thread on this somewhere.

MrTris never misses a beat. I neglected the sarcastic smilie face. OP, the 18g is plenty powerful. A proper tune will keep you in the safe and fun zone. 20g is a little too large for the OEM shortblock - the 18g is the biggest that comes recommended. I'm pretty sure if you can use a knee mill, you can assemble a motor. RTFM and carry on.

Yeah, what MrTris said. You'll blow your tranny up anyway. Any of the smaller turbos (VF-40 rebuild, BNR16/18g, VF-52) + OEM shortblock = win.

And begin countdown to FMS knockoff.

http://us2.campaign-archive1.com/?u=123b18acfcdb13bd9f5f528ae&id=de85b228f3

It looks more like a photo opp to me. You typically want fixturing in a production run. It reduces variation and quality errors. In the end, it saves the business money and has higher yield. Unless you bend the fixture. Maybe they learned from Stromung that the best fixture is none at all! Sigh. I just saw that exhaust in the basement again... At least I have access to a certified TIG welder and other fabrication services now. Maybe spring time.

This could be useful for some future developments.

Those look like some quality castings. Do I spy a sensor bung?

I didn't mean to come off hostile toward you, just toward the "let's hide our tail light trend". I can't stand stupidity when it endangers others on the road. Since you're replacing one with another, you're still following the regulation.

To be illegal and a danger on the road. That's as stupid as tinting your brake lights.

I know I would. As for the diffusers, you have to do a fair amount of post processing on most any FDM plastic parts to make them look as good as injection molded components. I'm not saying it shouldn't be done, just expect it to look odd until you get the sandpaper out. OP, have you listed yourself on http://www.makexyz.com?

Pry the green cup away from the transmission using a pry bar. You'll pull it into pieces if you try yanking from the hub. It doesn't take much effort to do it right. It'll pop right out. To get it back in, you might need more force than you think you do. You have to overcome the spring clip on the stub end of the shaft that goes into the transmission.

Have you looked at these cars? B9 Tribeca, 5th gen Legacy, etc. They all looked weird when they first came out, then looked very nice after a while!

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_25/train/differential_transmission/illustration_1/ New part number: 806735300 xxx90 is the left hand side I don't recall if they were directional or not.

A roof spoiler would take days, even weeks to print. It would be cheaper to buy one. Gauge pod would be a good one.

I have a Snypa's Ball tugger if anyone wants to borrow it.

I think Max just wanted a reason to consider the 6 speed swap. Shenanigans, I say