compsurge

Depends on what you mean by expensive. In general, it's just better to buy a new OEM shortblock for ringland failure since the labor cost negates the rebuild cost in many cases. Valves Are also expensive. Again, most of this stuff is labor cost. You said you replaced the spark plugs, correct? I had a mystery misfire and it ended up being cracked porcelain on one of the plugs.

You could have a vacuum leak or bad ringland/valves as previously stated. Hope it's something stupidly simple.

Leakdown test on #1 and #3 would rule out or confirm inconsistency with your leakdown tester. 10% on your gauge could be perfect or you could, in fact, have a bad reading on #2 and #4.

Electrical wiring? Fuel rail? That's the only other variables I could think of. Hopefully others chime in.

I dropped the box (they didn't look damaged, but I bet that was enough) FWIW I noticed an ever-so-slight misfire for the entire time (it's gone now). You could hear it if paying attention, but it never showed on the logs or triggered a CEL for 9 months.

Do check on your plugs. I had misfire caused by slow crack propagation in the porcelain on a brand new NGK plug.

First check spark plug - look for hairline fracture in porcelain, then swap coil pack on another cylinder and see if it follows. Then swap injector.

Engine will shake, driving will be jerky, odd exhaust noises can be heard. In my case, I had all of the previous and I could hear a "puff" every so often. Turns out the spark plug in cylinder #1 was cracked through and replacing the plug solved all of my issues including the mystery "puff" misfire that had been occurring for 9 months!

1. 02 sensor will not put out good readings and will be all kinds of haywire. You'd probably get a CEL for it. 2. I am referring to the intercooler tabs on end tanks, yes. Mine blew on a stage 1 tune! 3. I meant [paint] can not pipe Anything to create a seal will work.

Good diagnosis!

Clean MAF, look for intake leaks (torn inlet tube), blown intercooler tabs, check front o2 sensor. Pressure test system if you can. Apparently you can use a tire hose to a vacuum/pressure line that goes to BOV and block off the inlet by the MAF with a pipe.

What are your similar issues? A misfire code? What codes tripped the CEL?

^^ check your spark plug for cracking before swapping the coil pack.

Mine ended up being a cracked spark plug (of course I did this after switching coils and injectors from #1 to #2...). Replaced and working fine!

Get a leakdown as well for peace of mind of the valves.

Having misfire on #1 (w/ CEL). Around 5-5.5k it seems to make misfire noise as well so I haven't driven it more than light throttle anywhere. Drove fine cruising down interstate and around town to get home. Will pull coil and inspect/swap. Plugs have <10k on them. Put seafoam in tank last night. Could hear a very slight misfire at idle for past 15k miles (no CEL, only knock sum increment), but was not able to pinpoint what was going on. This could potentially be the root cause of my low load knock.

If you're my brother, $240 with tires from a friend's sti . I need to find me a set.

haha thanks! I fail at reading if it was in this thread.

Are you on OEM DMFW/clutch? I'm curious if this could be the case of the knock...

I'm going to say that the wingless grill + color matched paint really, really should have been factory. The car looks so much more menacing.

I had one like that as well. I just worked it back and forth LIGHTLY and it came out. It was just the anti-seize gumming up. I will admit my heart sunk deep as soon as I thought it was cross threaded

That is a beautiful color.

Division sounds good. We can always look up two posts/threads. I would suggest making a pivot table and one file then we can sort to our heart's desire.

compsurge southern Maryland 2005 LGT Wagon ABP http://legacygt.com/forums/vbpgimage.php?do=full&p=5211&d=1284205753