compsurge

Sounds like an electrical issue. Check for proper fuses/relays and look for bad wiring (grounds, exposed wiring, short circuits, etc.). Also inspect the harness that the connects to the coil packs. A car that has sat may have had animals eating at the wiring insulation. Be sure the oil and coolant is also changed before turning it over.

When was the last time you did plugs? Did you check the gap when you did the leakdown?

Because vacation pics. Try this next time to search this site: "[Google search query] site:legacygt.com"

Sorry for the delay. I had no problem doing the outer boot with the axle still installed in the transmission. I removed the axle nut and unfastened the control arm via the strut mount bolts. The process for booting is the same as the inner CV joint. I might have used a rubber mallet in the process, I don't recall. It was very straightforward. Be sure to buy a 32mm socket (get a metric Harbor Freight set on sale) and an impact gun (Kobalt/DeWalt) Best $180 spent ever.

What is time? I can barely find time to edit my Costa Rica photos

Someone used my tool! Needle nose pliers should work as well, but in my experience it was a blind operation; mainly due to me not figuring out how to get the carpet completely out I'm not sure if the Metro wheel stud is correct. The proper size is the one that matches the thread pitch and bolt diameter of the nut on the current top hat. The lower perch shouldn't matter, but I like symmetry. The spring will compress and rotate into place. If it doesn't, a few good bumps should seat it. You really want new top hats, as the new rubber won't squeak like the old, worn rubber might.

Looks like I forgot that the Geo Metro was not correct. I found my post from earlier. If you haven't gotten new top hats (like you should), buy them from Tire Rack for $25 or face squeaks of death). Take them to the store and compare the stud. From #121:

They only have one size M12x1.25 in the longest length at NAPA. That's the right one. I have 3/8" spacers on my wagon too.

The rear bolts are wheel studs from a geo metro IIRC. Go to NAPA and get them for like $1-2 each.

3" w/ flex

In my never-ending saga of Stromung... Does anyone have a IP&T group buy CBE they would be willing to uninstall to compare to mine? I need to figure out what geometry needs to be corrected on mine so I can finally get it fixed. After two years, I'm tired of letting it sit around in my basement.

Alright, clowns... It's that time of year again. Who wants a Shenandoah Cruise? I was absent last time, but I promise to be a slow driver to prevent you from getting pulled over I'm looking at you sir. David thefultonhow.

That doesn't fit. Unless you have a Suzuki. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/2005-Subaru-Legacy-AWD/CV-Axle/_/N-jngwlZ6o2dc You want the Duralast 7336 (60-7355) part, not the 60-7336. The Duralast has gotten good reviews here. If it gives you a problem, take it back and get a replacement.

It was one of the first mods I installed on the car. I removed the engine for a clutch install last year. I could have damaged the mount on reinstall, with it fatigue failing over time. If that is the case. I only think the mount is suspect after I remembered that I had to tighten it up to stop the mount from spinning. I can't recollect how much the mount was spinning though. Again, I'll have to take it out and investigate it first. I have a lot of new free time on Fridays...

I have to go loosen everything up and see if it is indeed broken. I don't think the poly should rotate by hand. I have some more vibration, some odd chattering, among other symptoms. Typical knock sensor giving me pulled timing in the zone with clutch engagement. It's either that or I have a broken ringland. Or just the world's noisiest engine lol.

Anyone have a right group N motor mount?

http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m5razu9ZGB1rwcc6bo1_250.gif

The last time I saw those silvers, I was in awe at how immaculate they were. I'm still rocking the BMB Gold.

I have an IPR. I don't know if it meets your qualification for "cheap".

That should fit in back of your wagon on the shag rag.

Get the Autozone one as suggested. Hassle-free returns at a local shop always beat having the car out of operation while you wait on an Internet exchange. Next time I have an issue, I'm just going to get the Autozone one. The cost of the axle with the core return negates the cost by saving my free time. I've rebooted both front axles (one inner, other outer), but I noticed the issue very early on and did not suffer damage as a result. I highly doubt I'll need to fix it again.

How did you put the axle seal in? On the 5MT, the piece the seal resides in can get unscrewed from the transmission for easy seal removal/installation.

Someone sell me a dashboard without cracks in it And shifter trim. kthx.

That is actually pretty sweet.

It's high quality, man.