compsurge

Is that for engraving? I hope you have glasses or proper viewing window.

Sounds like you could post the product a few pages back for wow factor!

Wait... Do you have a 2.5i? I hope your turbo upgrade is the purchase of a 2.5GT and not a turbo kit for the 2.5i. Glad the forum helped you out!

Did you hack yours to open source or build the Arduino cartridge EEPROM reset rig (so you can buy any filament and reload the cartridge)yet? Also, if anyone is interested in selling their 3D print service... http://www.makexyz.com

The results are very promising. The temperature of both runs (OEM and GS) pre IC were nearly identical, which is a good indication that the output is comparable. The test indicates that it has a much higher heat flux than the OEM intercooler. The test indicates that the airflow over the core is very good. The OEM IC brings the temperature down after peak boost, but nowhere near as well as the GS. The test also showed that the intercooler was heat soaking post-run at a rate consistent with stock at the post-IC temp, but is in fact increasing pre-IC, likely due to the aluminum end tank. The fact that it is still decreasing the temp over stock is a sign that the design is working very well. It also appears the splitter design is working well. I would be interested to see the test repeated the test on a 100 degree day. It would also be advantageous to have throttle position (so we know when the run starts) and pre/post IC pressure data for measuring the pressure drop as well. Based on this data set it looks very promising. Heat transfer will be a function of the material, temperature difference (ambient vs. intercooler inlet to exit air), and mass flow (air movement). In this case, the outside temperature will greatly affect a run due to the greater air density (more mass) and lower temperature (higher temperature difference). As the ambient temperature increases, we may see very different results due to the GS unit having more mass. You are absolutely correct to question this.

You shouldn't need much more resolution than the Kinect. The key is to dimension correctly after scanning.

Or you can rig up a Kinect to do the same thing a lot cheaper

It has been a while since I had my OEM exhaust on. I checked and I think you're right. It is after the first converter though, so I guess they are assuming the second converter will always function properly and look for the range of values that correspond to the inferred emissions out of the second converter?

The Subaru resonators look like cats because of the heat shield. An easy way to verify is that the catalytic converter will always be before an oxygen sensor.

I get mine Friday!!! After a year of waiting!

Too big to do as a single print on my Kossel Pro. It could be done in parts and glued together.

What are the approximate dimensions for that? Will it fit in a 10.5" x 10.5" cylinder?

A lower bank statement. Unless you have a leaking TMIC, there isn't a need to go above and beyond stock. If you plan on getting a bigger turbo, this would be a great option to have.

Nice... Sensors!

A lot of forum members advise to not do your own transmission work. Is it really that difficult to do properly when you have tools and mechanical aptitude?

CNT catted downpipe and OEM mounts (cheap mounts!) http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fs-de-catted-cnt-downpipe-oem-mounts-groupn-shift-fork-234021.html

FWIW, I bet you could make the dashboard rattle stopper in a group buy with great success. Another thing would be saggy butt spacers. I have this already CADed and it fits perfect (I made some by hand previously for myself and another member).

If I was going to get forged, I'd skip all the building and just get a Rallispec Cosworth block.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/those-you-considering-aftermarket-forged-pistons-130635.html http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/need-advice-loss-power-only-load-limited-wastgate-boost-leak-163766p5.html Strizzy didn't have good luck with Mahle.

RTFM for putting the RTV. It's crystal clear. Sometimes I have to wonder if these shops even read the manual. Manuals and checklists are for those who want to do it right the first time. As for that motor, you likely had cracked ringlands on 2 & 4. It's possible that you had a major pre-detonation event when the turbo failed, but I would be willing to bet you had a lot of knock recorded in the tables and the car drove around jerky even with the turbo working. I'd throw it all out and spend time building up a new shortblock with your heads inspected and/or rebuilt.

Well that won't be here for a few years once my printer gets in, I'm going to verify my PM-30 CNC conversion components mount well. I've been thinking of things such as battery tie downs, saggy butt spacers, and other parts.

Not to threadjack, but does anyone have ideas for CNC milling?

They should last a very, very long time, but there are some which will fail along the way.

Maybe just get a new injector and swap it in...

Are you running rich or having rough starts? It could be an injector is stuck fully open or leaking.