compsurge

It took me 2 days to do this job because I waited for the RTV to cure a full 24 hours before putting trans fluid back in. The link: (link deleted 2022-02-02) If your transmission sounds like a train, its the bearings.

Sounds like your 4th/5th gear synchro and the center diff bearings. You might be able to remedy the 4th and 5th gear shift with Extra S fluid, but I wouldn't count on it. Did you request to access the link I posted on Google Drive with the audio clip? I'm not sure why it still is asking for permission - everyone with the link should be able to view it.

FWIW, I went about 30k after buying the car. I think I bought the car with the noise if I recall correctly. Mine looked like this.

If it sounds like a semi, it is likely the center differential bearings. It isn't a big deal, but get them serviced sooner than later. They will go quite a long time. If the noise suddenly gets louder, replace them as soon as possible.

I don't have struts, but I do have OEM wagon springs that I will sell for practically nothing.

Anyone need any custom machined parts? I will offer up my services.

I have a few posts in some threads. I'll try to dig them up... http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/spc2125-help-thread-188927p42.html http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/spc2125-help-thread-188927p43.html This is a good walkthrough: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2071286 Information pulled from my maintenance log: I replaced my bearings on 6/23/2012 with 102480 miles. P/N: 806330120; 806255010; 806230170; 806322080 purchased from Heuberger Subaru for $133.01 + Fujibond red from IP&T (just buy the real stuff for hassle-free repair). I now have over 131k miles with no issues.

I did a full teardown and used Mobil high temp synthetic last year. It worked until recently. I pulled it off last weekend and greased the bendix shaft with Valvoline molybdenum since I discovered I was out of brake cleaner. It is much better, but I didn't get to do a full teardown like last time. I noticed it is much quieter now than before. I am going to inspect this weekend and see if I need new copper contacts.

Good point. I didn't even bother to check the car year...

Always use bump stops. In this case, the bump stops are on the trailing arm itself. If you look, you'll see them mid-way up on the body side of the arm.

I had my insurance cover it. The state had some BS about them not covering it for some reason as you all suspected. I got 2 new tires (+2 others at cost), 2 new BBS wheels, and a new Koni strut. Overall cost was higher than my deductible, so I came out on top monetarily. I didn't even have an "aftermarket wheel" rider on my policy. Great deal on those injectors! Tempting me with an 18G upgrade, I see...

Selling anything for winter? BTW, I now have 2 new goldies.

Not true. You can do just the outer without removing the axle from the car. You do need to undo the lower strut mount or ball joint to get the axle out. The Beck Arnly kit has the instructions.

I used the Beck Arnley kit for my outer boot and it was a simple job. You do need a socket for the axle nut.

6MT conversion?! I should hang around these parts more often! Also, I'm looking for 2 gold '04 STI BBS...

I might have two available in the near future

You should be able to open it by pulling the ball of cable if the whole assembly isn't broken.

Plugs. If your LV shows pulled timing, or maxed MAF trims in cell A, check for leaks. The turbo inlet tube is a common culprit.

I'm not very happy with my FX300 after 15k miles on it. It was awesome for the first 4k miles or so. Now, it's very grabby and I have more pedal travel until engagement than I'd like. It might not be the clutch though, it may be that it's still a kevlar clutch and it needs a lot more torque on the flywheel for smooth engagement. ACT HDSS is pretty nice in my opinion. Brett, how long did the clutch last on stage 2. It' only been a year?

I've been riding on them for 20k or so The FRONTS are apparently a no-no.

Just buy the Tire Rack set for $25

Your car is from the Northeast/Mid-Atlantic, isn't it? Snypa's Ball Tugger and some extra thick washers did the trick for me. It took a hell of a lot of effort to get mine out.

Lower the Koni setting from ULTRA SUPER SPORT MODE to a mode that doesn't bounce. Set it and forget it from there.

Did you cheap out and reuse the top hats? There is also another rubber bushing that has been identified as a culprit, but I can't remember where it was located. It might have been on the rear trailing arm assembly.

Get a new stud. I replaced the entire wheel bearing assembly in mine, when I had severe rusting of my studs. In retrospect, I could have saved $130 and just bought new studs at NAPA.