compsurge

Hey now, they were $60.

mspaint.

I think DesignSpark will allow you to import Sketchup and STEP.

What is your fuel pressure? Are your injectors flowing well? What code(s) do you get?

Considering how you only have to unbolt the strut, the ball joint removal is still questionable.

The sound could be the misfires. Have the plugs been changed? If none of the aforementioned trouble shooting steps have worked, I guess you should get a compression test and leakdown test.

Some of us have engineering degrees and experience in designing compressors and are perfectly capable of looking at something and telling you it doesn't work. I'm trying to come off as having an ego, just telling you some of us do, in fact, know what we are talking about.

I'm not arguing electric supercharging as a viable method of temporary forced induction. My argument is the product in this thread is designed to take advantage of unsuspecting buyers who don't know any better. Any meaningful boost will require a large motor - in the case of the Phantom, 4kW (5.4 HP). To run the ESC continuously at boost, the alternator would have a horsepower extraction greater than 5.4 HP. If running low boost for a long period of time, the extraction would be less. You could run a combined cycle of full boost from battery and then charge the battery during low boost, but this would put a lot of stress on the battery and it would significantly reduce its life. The reason the Phantom works is because it has an engineered supercharger compressor bolted to a electric motor that is up to the task. It draws a large amount of current (167 Amps at the rated power) for a set duration before the battery must be recharged. To put this into perspective, the LGT has a 110 amp* 12V alternator, which can generate at peak 1/3 of what is required for just the Phantom. While the Phantom battery is separate from the main car battery, it adds an additional electrical load to the alternator. This in turn, does result in larger horsepower extraction for charging, however it is not quantified since we do not have an exact charging rate aside from the (8:1) charge time to runtime ratio. *based on previous threads. Some have said they have 70 and 90 Amp. I honestly do not know.

Forced induction can add power to an engine... The Phantom and Audi systems work because they are engineered to work. The product in this thread isn't engineered. The compressor on this "supercharger" looks like it is more suitable for slowly circulating water, not compressing air. There is no variable geometry on the blades to indicate it is even worthy of the term variable. The naysayers in this thread aren't ill-informed. They know better. I would expect an Audi system to be engineered, not stamped sheet metal inside a simple housing. Case in point: http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=207216&d=1429675337 Doesn't work. Never will. http://www.phantomsuperchargers.com/uploads/1/2/4/9/12496102/1047989.jpg?874 Works for a little bit, then you need to recharge the battery. This product does absolutely nothing except waste money. If you tune any car, it will almost definitely give better performance.

This product is pure crap. I read post #1 and then decided to skip the entire thread to post this. If you don't understand why, you need to research basic physics and energy.

Here's the parts: http://parts.bestbuysubaru.com/showAssembly.aspx?makeName=subaru&modelYear=2014&modelName=legacy36l-5at-4wd36r-sedan&ukey_assembly=6024673&ukey_category=54106&assembly=b14-280-02

I didn't know you had to remove the axle for a coilover install. Is that something specific to the 5th gens?

Check out the Tactrix cable. New or used will likely be cheaper than a used AP. Get an e-tune if stage 2.

5 gallon fuel containers offer plenty of reserve for most automotive fluids. Just plumb lines (Actually, that's a terrible idea)

I bet it's for keeping his WRX scratch free in the city state of idiot drivers.

Have they checked the injectors? What was the result of the leakdown test from the dealer? Any competent or honest dealer wouldn't think about suggesting a valve job without proof. If they offered a $4k job without proof that the valves were not sealing, they should be reported to SoA. Have you changed your spark plugs? Intermittant misfires can often be caused by weak or poor spark. I'd do this before spending anything else. NGK SILFR6A or LFR6AIX/LFR6AIX-11 gapped correctly (0.030"). ONLY use NGK plugs and ONLY use one of these part numbers. Buy from one of the forum vendors and you will get the correct part. I assume you are having a shop do all the work?

I'm in Wilmington. I have a Dremel as well. They have their uses, but for most anything a 4-1/2" angle grinder is the better choice

That works. I have a milling machine if you want to cut a nice slot.

What is it? Is it a JDM part for the LGT? Honestly, it's a factory part. You'll waste your time scanning and 3D printing it. The factory part will be better, stronger, and be within spec. EDIT: Buy one if this is the right part: http://parts.subaru.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_product=49311283&ukey_assembly=6022950&ukey_make=5806&ukey_model=0&ukey_driveline=0&ukey_trimlevel=0&modelYear=0

I think this was brought up earlier. discojon might have dimensional capacity in his Lulzbot TAZ now.

Are you some form of 3D printing link-poster?

Put the axle nut back on it - enough to protect the end of the thread and hit the end of the stub with a mallet. It's just rust that is holding it in place.

I would guess it is normal as long as everything fits up well. It appears to be a tolerance stack-up from manufacturing, but it wouldn't have passed inspection if they couldn't fit the injector in the hole.

Harbor Freight has o-ring assortments. As long as they are good for gasoline they should work. $8 for a few hundred or so

You will likely need new clamps.