silverton

If you're having poor light output, it could be that the bulbs are not installed correctly. i am blown away by how many i've found that just weren't installed right. it's really not that difficult to align the tabs...

the spin on filter is easy like an engine oil filter. there is also an internal filter, but generally don't need to be replaced ever, unless you get rocks in there.

what? if it has the external spin on filter, it's very easy to change, if it does not, just drain and refill.

p0700 just means there is a transmission fault detected by the engine ECM. DTC P1718 AT CAN COMMUNICATION CIRCUIT Both of those are generic "tcm telling ecm hey buddy we got an issue". You need to pull codes off the tcm to know what's wrong.

b1s1 is upstream yes.

subarus always have been and always will be...farm cars. the sti was such a low seller for subaru. I worked at the busiest dealership in washington state and we MAYBE sold 1 a month, if not one every two months. they may be killing the wrx sti, but i don't think the sti is going any where. as they put it with the electrification statement, there may be a new hybrid gas/electric sti based on the solterra platform, from wikipedia: "Other vehicles planned by 2025 include a medium SUV, a medium minivan, a medium sedan, and a large SUV." that medium sedan could be it...

at the very least the heads should be resurfaced, especially if your motor has gotten hot. do not use felpro head gaskets. felpro gaskets are okay in most locations but they didn't get the 'failpro' name for their great quality. Stone is gonna be the best you can get and most OE like.

I called my local dealer to get the hoses to replace them, parts site said available, but dude on the phone said none were available.

Went through the engine gasket set, o-rings with quantity of 1. Only one is weird, and shows fitment in the AT oil pump. It doesn't have the locating tang but... maybe?? 806931020 is in the gasket set list, but if you search it comes up as a hypoid gear set. it's been superseded to 806931070.

And then when your brake pads wear unevenly from your slider pins being seized you'll wish you had. Near every one should follow the severe maintenance schedule. look at what the manual describes as 'normal' driving, and tell me you do that. Edit: at '12 months 24k' they are going to change your oil, rotate your tires, and replace your cabin filter. if your car is only at 5500, do a 6k service which is just oil and rotation. I would do what ever they say you need to do to keep your warranty valid.

I have a leaking fuel rail line, but only when it's below freezing, it only leaks enough to get the hose and clamp wet, but the smell inside the cabin makes it seem way way worse.

since you already have the aem afr, get the aem boost.

you just need to accept the fact that your engine needs the head gaskets replaced.

40 is a bit high, you're going to wear your the center tread faster than the outer treads. I'd recommend Subaru's spec on the door, if you have OE wheels that is.

at my dealer we recommended replacement tires when they were 3/32 out from the others. 2 is okay.

if you have a set of 5 wheels/tires for your car, there is a 5 wheel rotation pattern. follow it. each tire will get it's own 'off' time and will wear evenly with the rest as they make their 4 corner journey. Just to be safe, do it every 3000 miles. recommended is 6000 but you seem extra concerned, which is fair, tires are quite the investment. thousands of miles wear your tires, not hundreds. well, unless your alignment is buggered you can chew through a set of tires real fast.

vice grips and a slide hammer.

I'd definitely check your cabin filter, it may be so plugged up that airflow is greatly decreased. your highest fan setting may only be putting out a bare minimum.

Or get a remote starter with a voltage safety in it. Mine will start the car at a pre-set low or high temperature and/or battery voltage.

good information but completely left field for the issue OP was having.

I've used this with great success painting the reflectors of my RS' fogs.

cars dont like this, unless you can keep it inside. Have you replaced the coil pack, or at least tested it? you say ignition control module, is that a tomato tuhmahtoe situation?

There is a reason the coolant overflow has a 'full' line. as the cooling system heats up and cools down the coolant expands and contracts. the system needs a reservoir to pull some when it needs it, and then somewhere to put it when it's done with it. If you are ensuring your reservoir is never higher than the full line, and it is still blowing coolant out, your cooling system is getting over pressurized. Either by a faulty radiator cap, thermostat, OR...blown head gasket.

https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-87009-No-Spill-Coolant-Filling/dp/B01A2CQSU6 Something like this makes bleeding a much simpler process. Fill the bucket just over the ramp, run the car for 40 minutes or until the fans come on and then turn off, you can do that part twice if you want but just once is usually good enough. But it won't really matter how much you attempt to bleed it if air is getting in, say via the head gasket. I believe there are test strips available at most auto parts stores that can check for combustion gases in the coolant, I'd do that and/or a leak down test, just to give myself piece of mind, or to know wtf is going on.

two. one upstream. one downstream. they're on either side of the catalytic converter. Both electrical connectors are likely accessible from the hood, but the sensors will need to be gotten to from below.