silverton

So 4,350 miles before you changed the oil for the first time, hopefully it was already close to zero mile oil when you purchased the car. Did you check the oil level, at any point and before you drained it? That could have given you an indicator you went too long if you discovered it was low. 5,800 miles for your second "interval" that didn't happen because you ran the motor out of oil and seized it. 5-6000 is two times too many miles on one oil change interval, doesn't matter what kind of oil. half of THAT number is at the very largest distance you should have gone without checking the oil. I recommend checking oil every other petrol station visit, and changing the oil every 3,750 miles. I do enjoy that people will rag on these cars, calling them lemons, but it really comes down to the owner. it's the owner in every instance. ^^^^ This made me cringe.

the dealership isn't lying to you.

Clean. The. Throttle. Body.

did you disassemble the head lights and paint the high beam portion yellow, or is that just reflection off the installed bulb?

In my time doing basically exactly this to my GC starting in 2015, I'm on my 8th or 9th bottom end. Make sure the tuning is good. With all the money spent, you could have bought one with a turbo already. but the journey is part of the experience! EDIT: Also, with that being said. I finally decided to do it right instead of throwing short blocks at it and pulling a degree of timing across the board to try to make the next one last longer while still having good power.... I bought a merged harness and turbo intake manifold. You do it wrong long enough, you have to take a good hard look in the mirror and just... do it right.

If you're asking how it's done, I don't recommend that you do it. It could work in a pinch and hold like it did for Notorious, or it could just be a giant waste of your time. Definitely make sure the intercooler is clean clean before attempting or the jb weld wont seal any thing. This can prove difficult depending on how healthy your engine is, I've pulled a bunch of these intercoolers off and generally have to set them on a rag to avoid a mess.

https://pulstar.com/ try these next! they convert fuel to plasma!

clean the throttle body.

I got a shortblock rebuilt for basically a total of $1800. that was the machine work, which it needed to be bored out, and assembly (both of which were about 1200 total) with new rod and main bearings (acl race) and pistons and rings from subaru. (about 500-600). zero tangible benefit from replacing a 255 with a 257 unless you're doing the rest of it too. crank, rods, and pistons are the same in the 255 and 257. the 257 "benefits" are in the size of the heads combustion chamber, fuel injectors, larger turbo, and more aggressive tuning on the ecm.

the whole thread actually. I hate feeling compelled to do other peoples homework, I even took a screenshot showing i literally put every vehicle in to look, especially when you can google search all the engine bay pics you want. After having to type this list out, there is zero consistency with this manufacturer. why separate the 2.5i and the outback sport? it's the same car as far as the MAF is considered. same with the wrx's, and the sti's.... why dont they don't know the engine code in the 2009 wrx? or the 2010 vvvveeeeee six legacy?? Shit, I want a v6 legacy, just to see what it looks like under the hood. It's little details like this that really need to make you question, is this a reputable product? Here's the homework I've done for you, I've gone through every model here and looked up its MAF part number. This should be all the information you need, not pictures. 2008 Impreza - 2.5i H4 - 2.5L - EJ253 - 22680AA380 2008 Impreza - Outback Sport H4 - 2.5L - EJ253 - 22680AA380 2008 Impreza - WRX H4 - 2.5L - EJ255 - 22680AA380 2008 Impreza - WRX Limited H4 - 2.5L - EJ255 - 22680AA380 2008 Impreza - WRX STI H4 - 2.5L - EJ257 - 22680AA380 2008 Impreza - WRX STI Limited H4 - 2.5L - EJ257 - 22680AA380 2008 Impreza - WRX TR H4 - 2.5L - EJ257 - 22680AA380 2008 Legacy - GT Limited H4 - 2.5L - EJ255 - 22680AA31A 2008 Legacy - GT Spec.B H4 - 2.5L - EJ255 - 22680AA31A 2008 Outback - 2.5i H4 - 2.5L - EJ253 - 22680AA38A 2008 Outback - 2.5i Basic H4 - 2.5L - EJ253 - 22680AA38A 2008 Outback - 2.5i Limited H4 - 2.5L - EJ253 - 22680AA38A 2008 Outback - R LL Bean Edition H6 - 3L - EZ30D - 22680AA31A 2008 Outback - XT Limited H4 - 2.5L - EJ255 - 22680AA31A 2009 Forester H4 - 2.5L - EJ253 - 22680AA380 2009 Impreza H4 - 2.5L - EJ253 - 22680AA380 2009 Legacy H4 - 2.5L - EJ253 - 22680AA38A 2009 Outback H4 - 2.5L - EJ253 - 22680AA38A 2009 Impreza - WRX H4 - 2.5L - 22680AA380 2010 Outback H4 - 2.5L - EJ253 - 22680AA38A 2010 Forester H4 - 2.5L - EJ253 - 22680AA380 transition year, but EJ+FB engines use same MAF sensor 2010 Impreza H4 - 2.5L - EJ253 - 22680AA380 2010 Legacy H4 - 2.5L - EJ253 - 22680AA38A 2010 Legacy V?6 - 3.6L - 22680AA38A I could not see where Subaru may have offered a V6 version of this vehicle, so I selected the H6. So... the Impreza, including the wrx and sti, along with the forester use the 380 MAF. The turbo legacy/outback and 3.0L flat six use the 31A MAF. The Non-turbo Legacy/Outback uses the 38A MAF. The 380 and 38A look interchangeable, but as someone said previously, the 31A is a mirror for the mounting holes. All that being researched and said, for this company to say their MAF is compatible with that list of vehicles, is just a straight up lie. I can only imagine the rest of their information follows the same vein.

There are several companies out there producing lift kits for these cars. ADF is pretty popular, I've installed a couple and the fit/finish of the parts are really nice.

If you have a leak from there, and you can't tell which seal it is. replace them both. it's too much work to just try one when it's only an extra ten'ish minutes (if you're being triple careful) to pull the sundial and replace that o-ring as well. granted you do need a special tool, company23 has one. I've gotten anywhere between 4-6 full rotations out of them. this sundial sets the preload on the front differential so it is imperative that it be put back exactly where it was found. this is the part number for the sundial seal https://parts.subaru.com/p/49287766/806984040.html

P0456 is a small evap leak, did you research it at all? Likely means you got a broken vacuum line somewhere. code will re-set every two drive cycles when/if cleared til the issue is found and resolved. I'd say take a look at the gas cap, but i can't remember if that has its own code like other manufacturers.

if you're having trouble, you haven't tried the right tool yet ;D i'll presume this is the plastic intake manifold? definitely a bitch to get it routed around the turbo inlet but definitely doable with the right pliers and amount of patience.

So you just replaced the seal that the axle stub goes through? The black one with the lip that can be seen in that picture? There is also an O-ring seal that is on the outer diameter of the sundial.

I'm not sure how you could discern that from a lip on the ring, and just oil sitting there in the gap; that picture isn't clear enough. Gotta keep in mind the turbo is on the 1/3 side so that head gets a lot more heat and is more susceptible to carbon build up.

I really enjoy the fact that they reply to you, copying their own website information saying that "we only list the 2.5" but in that list is the 2008 LL bean EZ30D, and a 2010 "V6 3.6L". Instills that confidence in the product! Gotta keep in mind OP seems to be in Saudi Arabia, and I'm not really sure what 'market' of Subaru's were shipped there. I did find on opposedforces a very strange looking MAF I'd not seen before when looking at google images. 22680AA360 Could you take a picture of your MAF and show us?

Send an oil sample to black stone. they'll let you know how much and what kind of metal is in it, if you're able to take a 'clean' sample any way. already drained oil sitting for days could have other stuff settle in to it. Aside from that, removing the oil pan and and baffle plate should give you a good idea of how much and how big the chunks are. Short block oil pickup tube can be cleaned but get a killer b Cam gears (avcs) oil control valves oil control valve screens, replace or just remove, there's merit to both methods take the plate off the backside of the OCV just to be sure oil cooler if applicable oil pump heads need to be cleaned the 4 camshaft avcs oiling holes douched all the hard lines that feed oil to turbo/oil control valves need to be douched aaannndddd I usually run some brake clean through the turbo til it stops coming out brown

generally all these 'chip' type things do is use a resistor to skew the intake temperature reading that the ECM sees so it changes the fueling at that load point. I am interested to see what kind of testing you do to find its potential gains.

" The flow bench tested design of the JET Mass Air Sensor provides airflow increases of up to 45% and installs in 10 minutes or less. " A sensor absolutely can NOT increase air flow.

You're better off ordering the buckets you need. It seems daunting when looking at that chart they have, but easily solved by "Every 3 buckets = ~.001". If too tight, smaller bucket, if too loose, bigger bucket. I can help you with the 'math' if you end up doing it yourself. And you may actually find it's not out of spec. The one I'm working on right now needed zero buckets replaced, all within spec. The last one I did, 14 buckets needed to be replaced. One of the exhausts even measured .015mm when spec is .035. I recommend ordering the short block for your car, you will run in to the least potential problems during reassembly.

Not to dissuade your sale, but if you're still using the OE style one, they're known to separate and fail.

engine mounts, pitch stop, or transmission mount. I'd start with the engine as it seems to be present in gear only. pitch stops generally present themselves on acceleration. It's pretty annoying to replace these while the engine is in the car, all-data quotes 6 hours, for one or both. OE is 3.5x the cost of aftermarket, but the warranty/longevity is also likely 3.5x as long.

sheeeesh. what did you request to do to them?

My only criticism here, I thought it was strange you removed the fans from the radiator but not the radiator itself. as it's a very high risk low reward situation later on. If it was an automatic, I could understand wanting to leave it, but capping the AT lines is easy enough and lose minimal fluid. I leave the fans, both hoses, and thermostat housing attached and pull it out as an assembly. lower hose with housing tucks real nice in to the fan body. pulling the thermostat out helps drain much quicker and more thoroughly. Best hoist points are the factory ones if they're still there. If you have AC you definitely have the one. The compressor unbolts from the bracket easily enough once the whole assembly is loose. I use a chain with carabiners and the link offset two or three with it longer in the back, gets a perfect level lift every time.