silverton

https://deepcyclebatterystore.com/how-to-maintain-batteries/

I have had to do this procedure hundreds of times, only on canbus cars, and most commonly on the 15+'s. And it is to fix exactly these kinds of gremlins. It has never caused NEW gremlins. Much like you saying wings flex, and I know that they do, but I'm not going to be confidently incorrect about saying they shouldn't when you tell me they do. I'd google it before I went on a forum and straight up contradicted something. 12.5 volts is perfect for a battery at rest. If it drops below 10 while cranking, you have issues. While running It should be between 13.5'ish and 14.5'ish. +/- .3v

but i suppose since you can't view the dislike count any more, who knows if it's true or not.

https://www.ascentforums.com/threads/audio-completely-dead.4153/ crazy.

Okay. Well... I am a trained subaru mechanic so.. weird.

The nice thing though is that it's the only other bolt in the vicinity is a 10mm timing cover bolt, so you'll find it after a few stabs, lol I just did this twice, cause the first pump didn't work, I left the 10mm bolt that held that bracket loose til the end so I could fit the belt cover. Also, I do not recommend CARDONE. The first pump may as well not have had any gears inside of it, and the body leaked.

I would do what the dealership calls a "cap discharge". disconnect both battery terminals and touch them together for 30-60 seconds, it really just needs 10-15 but "they say..". when you reconnect the battery, clean the throttle body and reset your window pinch protection.

where does it come from and where does it go? generally a run of OE wiring isnt naked like that.

After some thinking, it very likely is the steering rack bushings.

With that information, I would start with one step colder than stock platinum or iridium plugs, gapped at 050 and see what happens. coppers are great, but they don't last very long..especially if you're throwing a higher power coil at it. If you are still having issues after that, I would put stock components back in the car, not necessarily new but known good; say from another running car. Not your old stuff.

Could be control arm bushes.

Conti DWS are by far the all around tire.

the short trims aren't as telling as the long. since your long is under 5, that's great. with a freeze frame showing negative 11, it's removing fuel at that moment so an incomplete burn seems to be what's going on. the gap does seem large, but you do have an aftermarket coil pack and I don't know what they recommend for that unit, but I do know MSD's can punch! Anecdotal, but I had a full MSD ignition set up on an S12, and iirc, I ran something stupid like .060. So... I'm wondering if your voltage is dropping and the coil pack can't make that jump with your big toe on the throttle. If it's easy, I'd put a factory coilpack back on it and gap the plugs to oe spec and see if that takes care of your problem. You may also just try .050 on the plugs and see if that helps. What brand upstream O2 did you go with? These car's are pretty finicky with O2's and MAF/MAP sensors.

where did you purchase from? that looks really good!

The pump doesn't run continuously until the car is running. It primes when you initially cycle the key and runs for a moment or two. If you had started it the transmission pump would have dumped all your fluid out the open lines, so that was smart not starting it. If you haven't put fresh gas in the car yet, that is where I would start. If you're positive you have air and spark, you need better gas. Have you removed any of the spark plugs after replacing them? If not it's worth a look. what they look/smell like will tell you a story! Are they wet? are they white? what's going on in that combustion chamber??

two and a half years later is an alright time to replace the timing belt before it fails (referencing one of your first posts about the car.) Engines need air, fuel, and spark to run. 45psi of fuel is plenty to start the car. Is the air intake free of debris? Is the exhaust free of debris? Are you positive you're getting spark? What do the spark plugs look like? Will it start with the MAF unplugged? why were new injectors installed? Is some shop just throwing parts at it to try and fix it or is someone actually attempting to diagnose it?

Most any thing should start with a fresh battery, fresh fuel, and a fresh set of spark plugs. Sitting for a year, unless on a tender, that battery is likely bad and will need to be replaced. 12.2-12.5v is nominal voltage at rest, if it drops below 9 or 10 while cranking, get it outta here! Also makes me concerned for the fuel, depending how much was left in the tank when parked, and how sealed of a system it was... you may have goo in there. How did you determine it wasn't getting fuel, I see the question mark at the end. Do you not hear the pump prime for 2-3 seconds when you cycle the key on and off? You say it doesn't start, but that doesn't give us enough detail. Does it turn over with the starter but won't fire and run? Or does the engine do nothing at all when you turn the key?

A photo will not tell us if the inlet will work. You need to purchase one specifically for your car. The install of these is such a pain in the dick you don't want to get in there and find it's the wrong one, you'll have a baaaad day.

https://www.flatironstuning.com/blog/what-is-the-difference-between-an-ej255-and-an-ej257

recheck the compression when the motor is at operating temperature like you're supposed to. with 4 being that low, it should sound like it has a dead cylinder when cranking.

each cycle of the key primes the pump. if the car has been sitting awhile, cycle the key 4-5 times before starting, i also wait for the cluster sweep to finish. holding the throttle to the floor will allow the motor to turn over, but not run. should take 30-45 seconds for the oil pressure light to turn off.

The batteries in these sensors are only good for a max of 10 years. You're at 12. As far as I know, there is no driver accessible button to reset tpms. a tool is required. While I understand where Max is coming from, there are two sides to the coin, I want every thing in my car to function as it did when new. If there is something that doesn't function, it's a broken car.

Might be anecdotal for the thread but, I was "chasing" an intermittent airbag light in my impreza. it was missing fender liners, the car was lowered, and i had rolled the fender lips. but turned out i didn't do it well enough. one of the airbag wires got pinched and de-sheathed and would ground itself intermittently causing my light. it eventually turned on and stayed on. One day I removed the driver side fender to replace it since it was damaged, and there i found the damaged harness.

waterpump, thermostat housing, and coolant crossover tube bolts are all 6x1. they all take 12nm of torque.

Almost all subaru radiators are aluminum core with crimped plastic end tanks. they fail.