silverton

I don't think this man is drifting with a front wheel drive car. I've sheared a front axle from too much launch. the rears last forever, as i had implied.

Is funny to hear someone complain about a component breaking, when that component on 99.9999% of Subaru's literally, LITERALLY, lasts the life time of the car. but but but, RACE CAR. Sounds like you need to upgrade to an R180 or R200. The heavy duty axles available for you are for extra articulation, not rotation, but they may still help...

Not really true any more... we have 1234yf in the late model subarus now. Please don't. It won't fix your problem. Take it to a professional.

are you looking for an aftermarket stereo or an OE style one? Any aftermarket should work if you use an adapter harness

ball swivel sockets are also a life saver for those bolts in the back

These cars were able to come with an alarm system, with shock sensor and starter kill. Mine has an after market system and the security light in the dash still does the blinky thing. If you've had the car since new I hope you still have the owners manual. The systems operation is covered in detail.

Once they start slipping, they don't come back. I paid $3000 to get the 4eat rebuilt in my 2001.

the only time your pump should fail is if you regularly have less than 1/4 tank of gas.

The white case panasonic batteries that came in a lot of the late model subaru's were bad from the get-go, and under powered! 356cca... LMAO, come on subaru.

You're far less likely to damage the radiator when you remove all of the things.

I actually need to do this with my LGT sedan and have most of the parts sorted, I was going to do it the more expensive way, that way there are only two bushings that will need to be pressed. And since most of my hardware is rusty, alignment guy told me he wouldnt touch the back, I planned on buying all new hardware as well. This list isn't 100% probably like..95% I might be missing a bolt or two but the major components are listed. the crossmember comes with all six bushings, and verified fitment between my sedan and your wagon. 20152AE00B x1 crossmember 901000110 x6 flange bolt 901700122 x2 bolt cam 20540AA080 x2 transverse link bolt 902350026 x12 self locking nut 20560AA011 x2 lateral arm washer 903100171 x2 adjusting washer 20250AE01A x2 rear control arm lower 20250AE021 x1 rear control arm upper right 20250AE041 x1 rear control arm upper left 901000175 x2 flange bolt 20550AA010 x2 self lock nut 20250AE06A x2 control arm 20540AC090 x2 transverse link bolt 20254AE03A x2 trailing link forward bushing 20254AE02A x2 trailing link rearward bushing

I've done dozens of HG jobs, I used to use a copper spray but stopped. The best thing you can do for a HG is buy high quality MLS.

Right? Curious how much the brushes were and how many hours of labor this takes.

Don't be so curious, ask google! (hint..it's really really big radiators and air) You've not upgraded, or downgraded, the water pump so flow should remain the same regardless of circuits. Mostly because there's only 2 gallons of coolant, and water pumps flow much much MUCH more than that per minute. You've added no discernible capacity, and only gave it another optional route to take. If you look at a cooling circuit for a subaru, you'd see that this mod bypasses SOME, cause it's only a slight optional detour, of the coolant going from the cylinder head to the cylinder block, directly to the heater core which returns behind the thermostat to the water pump to be pumped back in to the cylinder jacket

So I know this is mostly for turbo's, but... since all of our cars have knock sensors and they kind of have something to do with the cars base tune, here I'm putting it. I have been fighting poor performance and mpg's, 16-19 with mostly highway cruising, in my 2001 LGT for a few years. I even put an equal length header on it and while it helped, all it really did was make more noise with out much more go. Unfortunately the noise was like a brick in a metal trash can rolling down a hill, it's awful! Since I have some experience tuning my home brew 2.5RS+t I did some data logging on the Legacy before replacing the knock sensor last August with an NTK unit. I've always liked NGK so I've always used NTK knock sensors, but there was no change in the cars behavior. Before my 2.5RS was turbo, I know I'd put one of these knock sensors in it with the same exhaust manifold and I remember the same awful noise from the back. I even flashed my 2.5RS' ECM while I worked at the dealership, no one there knew how to do it and I remember it was a pretty janky set up, but I was able to update it. While that helped, the underlying issue was still there, when I turbocharged it of course all that changed and I never revisited. Sorry this is so long, it's almost over. My Legacy over the last month has been real wheird. Intermittently feeling like it's out of gas when it has plenty. HMMM, I had a knock sensor high input code! I go to warranty the sensor, it's only been six months... SIXTY DAY WARRANTY. Do some more data logging with it and I find the knock sensor is pulling 5-10 degrees, almost all the time, but I obviously can't hear any actual knock out of the motor. so WTF I buy a new Bosch sensor, since it's the only one one with a limited lifetime warranty and it was only $20 more than the NTK. I installed it, reset the ECM, and it's a completely different car with a different sound. It pulls 1 degree very rarely, with most of the time it showing advancing a degree or more. Interesting thing about the Bosch sensor, part of it had been shaved down like an attempt to remove a brand. Does say "unisia jecs" on it so it may have been the subaru..or possibly a nissan logo shaved off. I owned the Legacy during my time at the dealership and had attempted to update its ECM as well, but the time between my impreza and the legacy they had replaced the diagnostics laptops, which were no longer compatible with the old SSM3 bricks. That being said, I think the bit of negative timing I see now could be fixed by the ECM update

I'm not surprised a 3.6 can tow. It actually has torque over the 2.5.

it could very well be a burnt valve

With all this talk about not wanting to lower coolant temperatures I'm surprised they make big radiators and fans and such. we have race car goals, I don't know why this is so controversial.

You'd have known if it was a problem when you first started the car. I'd just run it. It's not terrible to change the pan in the car, but I'm still not a fan.

SBF-5 disables the fuel pump on those ones

It's extremely common. It likely needs a cam carrier reseal.

It's really hard to say what could be leaking with out seeing it. That side of the engine has the water pump, thermostat, and both heater core lines.

The hose coming off the water pumps "bypass pipe", is going direct to heater core. the cylinder 4 coolant hose is t'd to the heater core and the cooler. from the cooler, we're likely going back in to the water crossover.

I don't think you should be going through an over flow amount of coolant, especially twice, if the system was properly burped. get a burping funnel and let it idle til the fans come on, should be good from there with air bubbles created from a drain and refill. Air in the system generally makes the temperature read higher, not lower.

My 2001 gets 'fuelly' in the car in near and sub freezing temps. Mine is the forward right fuel line, it ends up moist. I called for replacements recently and unfortunately the little rubber hoses appear to be NLA from Subaru.