silverton

the nice thing is that you'll get it fixed under warranty...whenever parts come around.

good ole subaru! as long as it's leaking, you know it has oil! Subaru has shipped leaking engines since... ever.

tumblr? yeah that place has gone downhill since they banned porn.

any 251 or 253. 1's are map, 3's are maf. obviously doesn't matter when you keep your intake.

those spark plugs are so average looking they're a candidate for the Idiocracy human hibernation project.

Eh, not really. I think it's wild the underhood sticker has that large of a range. the service manual calls for a spec of 20 on the intake, and 25 on the exhaust, with a range of .02mm in either direction. A valve clearance check, and adjustment if necessary, is done every 105k with the timing belt, so you should set them to spec and not worry about it "loosening or tightening over time" Basically make it tight enough that the feeler gauge doesn't fall out, but loose enough that you don't have to really force it, if that makes sense. a set of stepped gauges is ideal

added volume? the transmission cooler portion of the radiator is just a hardline run the length of the coolant end tank. it's ounces at most of additional capacity. If your car already has the oil cooler, doing this wont help. If it doesn't, there are far better options out there.

the reason manuals have them is due to the fact rpm changes can happen very rapidly with a gear change and has potential to make the belt jump. enough so that subaru felt the need to put a guide on them.

can you feel the black marks when you try to pick at it with your finger nail? if not, don't worry about them. the dent in at the top of the cylinder wall does concern me though.

.008"(.20mm) for the intakes, .010"(.25mm) for the exhausts. You need to use both of the .010's in your feeler set for exhaust adjustment since they share one rocker arm. Though to be honest I have found this spec to be a little on the loose side, at least by ear.

could it be the wheel bearings again though?

oh shit, I didn't know those had a 1/2 square in them! I've never taken the rubbers off ;D

That's good since that's how you're supposed to do it.

ultrablack, toyota figp, threebond...

airbag connectors and wiring sheaths are yellow.

finna?

Interesting thing they did with the grille there... not sure if I like. probably looks a lot better in person. I remember all the huffin and puffin people were doing when the new WRX was announced, but it wasn't so bad

about 400 miles a month, good lord... why even have one? But then who am I to talk? I put about 12 miles a day on my car, so it works out about the same. I'm not walking those three miles to work!

Judging by the surface rust on other components in that picture, it may just be where you live. Those things dont rust like that here in the PacNW. One nice thing about the blue, is that it's suuuuper obvious the guides are too tight. I don't think you need a kevlar belt to rev that high. Isn't there a JDM motor that revs pretty high? OE is likely good enough, but definitely stay away from gates in general.

Now that you say this, why's that tensioner pulley have rust on it? Especially as much as it does, for only having been in use for a thousand miles.

Those pictures make it very obvious that the crank gear guide was not spaced properly. Did you use the tool?

84912AG580 is no longer available, but its descriptor says use this 84301AG03A, which is available, but can't find any pictures confirming it's what you want.

you can leave it connected

How???

If you let the master get dry, you need to bench bleed it before attempting to bleed the lines. If it means any thing to ya, the service manual not once mentions to cycle the ABS pump when bleeding the brakes, it mentions "perform abs sequence control" during the abs unit replacement, and it appears to be a pressure test function. At the end of the day, it's brakes, if you don't trust it, take it to the dealer!