silverton

I've used this with great success painting the reflectors of my RS' fogs.

cars dont like this, unless you can keep it inside. Have you replaced the coil pack, or at least tested it? you say ignition control module, is that a tomato tuhmahtoe situation?

There is a reason the coolant overflow has a 'full' line. as the cooling system heats up and cools down the coolant expands and contracts. the system needs a reservoir to pull some when it needs it, and then somewhere to put it when it's done with it. If you are ensuring your reservoir is never higher than the full line, and it is still blowing coolant out, your cooling system is getting over pressurized. Either by a faulty radiator cap, thermostat, OR...blown head gasket.

https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-87009-No-Spill-Coolant-Filling/dp/B01A2CQSU6 Something like this makes bleeding a much simpler process. Fill the bucket just over the ramp, run the car for 40 minutes or until the fans come on and then turn off, you can do that part twice if you want but just once is usually good enough. But it won't really matter how much you attempt to bleed it if air is getting in, say via the head gasket. I believe there are test strips available at most auto parts stores that can check for combustion gases in the coolant, I'd do that and/or a leak down test, just to give myself piece of mind, or to know wtf is going on.

two. one upstream. one downstream. they're on either side of the catalytic converter. Both electrical connectors are likely accessible from the hood, but the sensors will need to be gotten to from below.

I'm assuming you mean the pitch stop, the one that bolts to the firewall and the top of the bellhousing on the transmission? If so, now inspect the transmission crossmember mount, you may find it's torn.

Yeah that can be hit or miss too. I frequently get a p0420 on the freeway, but goes away after a couple trips on city streets. Like every thing, YMMV.

enough drive cycles with out a fault and the check engine light clears itself.

https://motoiq.com/the-dreaded-subaru-p0011-and-p0021-dtc-codes-dont-let-them-wreck-your-turbo/2/

My major annoyance with the BP chassis is the door cards too. it's a call back to the older legacy's, but ugh... it's bad. i like frameless windows, especially in the summer. shame your passengers every time they shut the door by the window, stops it real fast.

the larger port is easily removed with the harbor freight slide hammer kit. the other one has two flat sides. use a wrench, either of proper size or adjustable, and start working it back and forth; you only get about 1/8-1/4 turn out of it, but it eventually walks itself up with your assistance. installation is reverse of removal, minus the slide.

i hear... frozen snow on windshield wipers, and tires driving over snow. it's impossible to diag with a video dude.

have you tried rockauto? the denso is $121, and the ntk is $154. the denso is OE.

I didn't want to say it. Thanks! I find OPs situation incredibly bizarre. FA/B engines sucked because they were pushed through R&D too quickly due to the political landscape at the time. I plan to use my Legacy as an example of a properly cared for engine lasting. six thousand miles so far, heres to 100s more!

NA's do not have TGV's, and not sure why you're even thinking there are TGV's at play here, I reread the thread and all I got out of it was some possibly grammar issues. I think OP is saying the blocks have different sized ports on the top, not that the one has two ports on it. We need to see more of the 'new' block uncovered, the other block breather port would be visible if not for the cover. If OP ordered a long block, it'd be pretty heckin obvious that the 'new' motor had twice as many cams as the one yarded out.

Subaru's don't have shit motors. Subaru's, and every other car, have shit owners. Not saying you are, unless you bought your car new and for sure followed the manufacturer service intervals to a T, then sure, you may call that one a shit motor. It really rubs my fur backwards when these motors get shit on because that person never changed the oil. Offuckingcourse it's going to fail. Subaru's are by far the easiest car to work on and incredibly easy to diagnose. Farm cars for the win!

If you can measure your turbo shaft play with a ruler, it's already too far gone.

Imagine eating another deer after you've done that.

either thread the hole, 10x1.25, or deal with one bolt in the starter...

Both are pressed in, you'll need to swap them in order to use your vehicles original pcv system. take the pcv valve out of the the one and you'll have an easy time with a slide hammer.

no intention of taking away from ssd, but i did google it...finally. and found rallyinnovations make light bars for every thing.

Only the intercooler needs to be removed to gain access to the knock sensor, so unless you see any of the hoses in there leaking, I would leave them alone. knock sensor torque is 24nm, be sure to clock it the same direction as the one you remove.

QFT :spin::spin:

I'm not trying to be an asshole either, but I am a certified subaru technician. jesus christ. Just because I don't personally own one, doesn't mean I haven't worked on dozens of these engines. you're thick dude. I'm out, yall can have your "arm chair" logic.

I own three subarus, two third gen legacy's and a 2.5rs. but as i said, professionally. I've rebuilt dozens