silverton

other than cleaning the throttle body, that's what i told you to do

i hate to be the akshully guy, as i am a little jealous, but they aren't quite twin turbos. it's more like a bi-turbo setup. one for the low end, and one for the upper end. One is a vf25, the other is a vf27.....checking wikipedia it's still a little more convoluted than that.

As long as you get it up to operating temp regularly you could go a year or so. do some reading on bobistheoilguy, the one thread i looked in to had someone saying their 29 year old bmw gets its oil changed every four years. if you're really curious how long your oil can go for do a six month change and send a sample to blackstone, one of their options is testing for extended use iirc, they'll let you know how often you should change the oil in YOUR engine.

you're mentioning clunking noises from the front, though you do say they disappear once the FWD fuse is in. If it were my car i would replace the three things I mentioned one at a time to chase it down. Start with the transfer clutches (due to fwd fuse alleviating symptoms), then ball joints, then axles. really you should do the ball joints and axles at the same time since you need to take the ball joint out halfway anyhow to do the axle replacement. Bottom line, if putting the FWD fuse in makes your car feel better while turning, the transfer clutches are definitely going bad. You are correct about the center diff being a clutch pack, it's called a transfer clutch by subaru. And it's a lot easier to replace than it looks.

Replace your front ball joints, front axles, and the transfer clutches in your center diff.

very likely the center diff is going bad

I'm flabbergasted that an actual Subaru dealership didn't have the right tool. Or.. the tech didn't know about the tool. Or the tool was lost and not replaced because that cuts in to the shop foreman's bonus. Each dealership is sent a special cabinet setup that literally contains every special tool that Subaru has in their repair manuals, but only once. It's up to the dealership to replace lost/damaged special tools. Good luck buddy!

I don't recognize it.

we aren't going to be able to identify the part on a description alone. we need a picture.

loop the heater core lines to remove it from the system and see if you still over heat.

I'm confused by this situation, lack of periods and structured sentences, i realize you're on mobile but... come on.. sounds like you agreed to buy a car, but now the owner is saying the front diff is locked up? the front diff isn't something that's easily replaced so you're better off sourcing a whole transmission, or just walking away from the car.

Top it off and check again after a week of driving. If it's been 9 months and you still see coolant in the reservoir, it likely wasn't burped completely, and not a leak. Also if it's been 9 months, you should have had it in for service where they should top your coolant off...

Try this: Disconnect battery terminals, touch them together for 30 seconds. Idle car for 20 minutes. Profit!

Torque will read your short and long term trims no problem. It does sound like there's a bit of extra drag in your compressor, or the tensioner pulley.

gives me hope! i want a 18/19 legacy 3.6, whichever year was the last with the denso head unit

I've done it so many times and still get anxious when I turn the key. Good job!

I don't believe OP's car will have a turbo inlet.

this is true

You should be fine, but won't hurt to double check.

Your owners manual should list acceptable oil weights for different climates.

Launch and Autel products basically do the same thing, in the exact same way, only the Autel is a better experience. the Launch would leave you second guessing on every touch, did it register? If you're trying to get a scanner for every car, a product like this is great. if you only plan on diagnosing subaru's, you're best off using products on a laptop like freessm or romraider. but even better if you can acquire a Denso DST-i interface and SSM 3/4

if that's your budget, check this out https://www.autel.com/c/www/mk2/3227.jhtml

It's well worth the investment if you plan on keeping the car a long time. I've dumped 10-15k in to my 2001 Legacy over the last two years but... it's new on the bottom while showing a quarter mill on the cluster.

if by fully compatible you mean SSM level of diagnostics? Not likely. I've used Autel and Launch diagnostics products and neither could look at a particular set of engine sensor data necessary for the diagnostics i needed to do. This was about eight or nine months ago on a FB20 in a '12 impreza, so i doubt they've added it since. I wish I could remember what the PIDs were, but it had something to do with the VVT system.

you should be okay to reset the marks. turn the intake clockwise, and the exhaust counter clockwise. the driver side ones should be the easy ones that you can put on mark by hand. So long as the crank is still on its mark, you can turn the cams individually in the direction i stated without damage.