silverton

Hi. I have an impact. I've only ever spun the cam with it. I do this professionally.

the shop likely unbolted the mounts to lift the motor making it easier to replace the spark plugs. sucks they broke in the process.

If your engine mounts were bad, you should also replace both of the transmission mounts. If either bushing sleeve has play in the pitch stop, chuck it.

Some times i hate having an older chassis, I'd love one of these on both of my third gens.

You use no tools, but are able to impact the cam bolts out? This just can't be true, from experience. Either your cam clearances are way too tight, or you're doing it with the timing belt installed.

2004 STi is the earliest you can go, and honestly not much changed with the engine for the next 15 years. Try to get one pre-DBW and you should be okay. Definitely get in touch with iwire about a harness merge before you start though.

I'll continue to use the company23 tools, as they do work, and replace the AVCS gears on motors with bearing failure, replacing them is the proper way to do it. Good luck replacing those screens every 3k miles, you have to untime the motor to get the ones on the left side of the engine as the rear timing cover needs to be removed, and remove the intake manifold to get the right side. The only time you should be concerned with the performance of your AVCS system is when a code is produced.

Hope these help you. Edit: Noticed it said p0172 after I uploaded them, so i added the page that says to refer to p0172 for diag

Get the pitch stop out of the way completely, no sense leaving it there with the hardware out. I'm sure you're stuck on the dowels though. douche them with pb blaster or equiv. use a hammer and hit the mating point where the dowels are to knock the rust loose, easier on the passenger side than the driver, but if you get one side to separate just a smidge you're home free with a prybar. If that doesn't work, sharpen your pry bar or use a sturdy screw driver and go to town on the seam. Last resort: With the engine and transmission resting on a jack stand high enough that the motor mounts dont touch the cross member, raise it two or three pumps with your hoist, and then quickly release the pressure to drop it. I've only had to do this once, but I'm in the PNW where cars dont generally get rusty, but the weight of the engine can pull it away from the transmission enough for you to get screw driver or prybar access.

air fuel ratio. they're more advanced than an O2 sensor.

If you want stiffer but still OE'ish, get the group N's.

I rounded out a shit ton of AVCS bolts with a blue-point hex. All of my woes were solved when I bought the SnapOn one. The fit is so good and not a single one has stripped since.

When there is a code, the car disables cruise control so that you're more likely to get the vehicle serviced. p0171 isn't always indicative of a bad MAF, other potential suspects are the AF sensor, a weak fuel pump or dirty/clogged injectors.

My sell on Mobil1 was a car I bought. 1987 200sx se-v6, 113k on it, bought it from the original owner who was a mobil1 dealer and used it in the car since 7 miles. I took valve covers off and the motor had absolutely zero tarnish.

We're in year three of the Covid times, people aren't generally that welcoming of strangers near them any more.

The technician didn't have to do much, the cluster in your car practically falls out.

I've used redline oil exactly once. It made the oil pressure light come on while I was climbing 90 over snoqualmie. That was 15 years ago and maybe they're better, but fool me once... I've only used Mobil1 in all my vehicles since 2010, have never had issues.

That's neat!

Now that you mention that, I do believe two or three cars that came through that shop ended up with p0011, and/or p0021 codes. But, even after replacing the cam gears with new units, those codes remained, so it was still a mystery as to what caused it. One was even a couple months after the work was completed. I do believe the filters are there to save the avcs gears, but i've read mixed things about replacing them, or just straight up removing them.

I've taken off dozens of these sprockets with the company23 tools, and I only ever had one failure, and it likely wasn't the fault of the c23 tool.

"Torquemada Lite" if applicable to your transmission, and both sides of the CV stub ends, one for your wheel bearing to ride on, and the other depending upon if your transmission stubs are innie's or outie's. It takes about an hour to swap around and even faster once you do it a few times, but it's really the only way to do what you want. You don't have to do the handbrake mod if you don't want to, but I've done this to my 2001 2.5RS. First link is the very first drive with the car rwd and pre-turbo, my buddy's shop was right on the corner, and the second video is post turbo and was after I broke a front axle and had to be rwd while i waited for the new axles, upgraded to HD's at this point, literally sheared it off. The car just wants to go sideways, so I won't run it.

That kinda sounds like an idler pulley bearing with the frequency and pitch, but I would certainly try Scubaboo's trick first. If you still hear a squeak after both of those tricks, take the belt off completely and start it, but not for very long! You won't have an alternator or a water pump.

Not once did OP mention that the battery voltage was 12.5 after the car was started. And the way it reads, they removed the battery and took it to autozone, not took the whole car. I've learned you make a lot of assumptions MoleMan, it's....frustrating. IF @sylquist had mentioned that his battery was only showing 12.5 volts while running, I would have recommended an alternator and this thread would be a whole lot shorter.

I wouldn't read in to that too much. cam and camshaft are analogous in the automotive world. Also, the same company that wrote what you quoted, also wrote the wiring pinouts for my 2001 impreza... and they fried my head light switch because I didn't think to double check the FSM corrections first.

the AVCS gears are not user serviceable, so there are no internal parts you can buy. You also need a special 5 point 'torx' style bit if you're really set on cleaning these. I've only had one mishap using the company 23 exhaust cam gear where the spring came unsprung. https://www.iwsti.com/threads/avcs-gear-cleaning-guide-read-this-if-you-spun-a-bearing.279112/ If it were me, and I've done this before, if you really are concerned, buy new. It's money but it is peace of mind for how ever many dollars you've already spent on the rest of the motor, potentially half assing your AVCS gears could grenade the whole thing. That being said, I would figure out why your engine is over heating before you rebuild it. You may find you do all this work and it still over heats. Done all the usual? thermostat, coolant, radiator? Just to rule it out, even if you do still have heat, bypass the heater core. I've seen that before and it blew my mind.