Gars05

I recently replaced the pully and also checked and adjusted the air gap on the clutch.

Don't know how to do this. I do have the Torque App so would this help?

I changed it all out myself and had a shop recharge the system.

Hey guy's on my 2005 2.5i non-turbo wagon, I'm beginning to notice the car stumble, or miss more than usual, only when the A/C is on and at idle. When this happens, it really causes the car to momentarily shake...almost like a hard misfire or something, and then she quickly idles fine. This does not happen when the A/C is off. Could my compressor be on its way out and starting to seize up or something? As far as AC temp, for the most part she blows cold. I would not describe it as a "consistent cold" but its comfortable. The car has 289k miles. In late 2019, I did change out the condenser, dryer, expansion valve, and found a nice used compressor. My son hit a deer and so I had to replace several items. Thanks

Guy's....how do I remove this cable? I have a used heater control unit on the way (bad recirculation switch) but I don't think it has a cable attached. It's critical that I preserve the cable plastic fastener. Maybe some heat to soften it up? Thanks

Last year I let my son borrow my 05 Legacy wagon for a couple of weeks while I worked on his Chevy Malibu. When I got the car back, it looked like yours. It was his first buck! The insurance company totaled the car but I decided to keep it and take a little bit less. After a visit to a few wrecking yards, and a couple of weekends later, I got her all put back together. Hood, rad support, radiator, condenser, fans, etc...Good luck!

I recently went with the Six Star gaskets and no copper spray. Used a razor blade, rag, and brake cleaner. Also went with a Six Star thermostat. One thing that worked well for me was to fit the drivers side head gasket over the bolts and on to the head first. I used rubber bands on the ends of the head bolts to hold them in place. Most of the directions I read said to place the gasket over the guide pins on the block which worked well for the passenger side. The drivers side is too tight though even with the engine jacked up.

Because I got the car, clean title and all, for only $800, I went ahead and bought a used CVT with 32k miles for $1700 and paid a shop $700 for the install. The mechanic said that all the sound was coming from the tail section of the CVT. Everything sounds and works great now. Had it smogged and got her registered. Now I will be tackling the coolant tube o-rings this weekend.

I tested the ohms on the gray connector

I took it out for a spin yesterday despite the noise and she runs through the gears just fine. I had noticed a shudder on take-off a few times. Didn't seem normal and I did have a check engine light come on....in fact, three of them, all transmission related. When looking at the fuse panel in the engine bay I did notice that a 10 amp cvt fuse was missing so added one.

New Cooper tires all the way around, I believe just recently, by the prior owner

I believe the fluid had been changed before. Don't know if more than once though.

I just picked up a 2013 2.5I Legacy Premium knowing it had some possible transmission issues. I'm hearing a bearing or grinding noise when in gear and driving and not at idle. Put the car up on jack stands and put her in drive and can only hear it when the wheels are spinning. Had my wife get in the car and give it a little gas and hold it steady and the noise was very audible. Tried using a stethoscope but it was still hard to pinpoint. I was hoping for a bad wheel bearing or axle (162,000) but it sounds like it's coming from the torque converter area, near the valve body, or maybe the front differential area. Loosened the diff check hex plug and nice fluid comes out. Loosened CVT fill plug (left side of CVT) and fluid came out....a little brown. What do you guys think?

Are you using a spill proof funnel to burp the air out of the system? I just had this problem on my 2005 EJ25 engine and it was exactly like Dalee said. The pressure built up so high that initially it cracked the top of the radiator. Installed a new radiator thinking that I was in the clear but no. The radiator would fill up, send water over to the overflow, and that would spew all over. Any oily residue in the overflow? I ended up two weekends ago, pulling the heads with the engine in the car. Had complete machine work done including valve/seat grind, surfacing, etc. for around $700. Last weekend, installed Six Star gaskets at $45 each, new intake/exh gaskets, thermostat, and timing belt. She runs great.

Thanks Dave. I called them and spoke with Ken. He said that it was likely valve body related. One option would be for me to take out the VB and ship it to them for inspection. Mentioned something about a steel valve inside an aluminum housing and different expansion/contraction rates. Sounds like they know what they're talking about so I appreciate the referral! Gar