silverton

I find it easy to use an aim'n'flame(bbq lighter) for checking exhaust leaks. the flame wont stay lit with a leak. You didn't mention what your mileage was, but if it's been at least 60k since you've done spark plugs, it's long over due and I recommend a major service! the engine air filter is easy enough to check yourself, and a way to get fuel out of the equation is do a couple...maybe three tanks of premium and see what you get. For what it's worth, my current tank with my 3.6 has been ALL city, I have a two mile commute and I let it warm up 10-15 minutes in the morning, and I'm getting about 11mpg using regular fuel, my next tank will be premium. My last two tanks with a solid driving mix using regular were 16 and 17mpg. I have found my carputer is consistently +1mpg over actual. I love my CourseMS mount, but they don't make one for your generation

excessively dirty air filter, dirty maf, sticky throttle body, worn spark plugs, fuel quality, dirty injectors, failing O2 sensors, knock sensors, and cats (or any exhaust restriction) can affect gas mileage

i generally use opposedforces for jdm part look up, but I am not seeing a 2.0 turbo gt-b model showing for the "B12 93-98" legacy.

threads are galled up somewhere on the stud.

According to alldata, for 2017 with either 17 or 18" wheel options Sedan Front wheel arch height is 397mm -24/+12 Rear wheel arch height is 383mm -24/+12 Outback Front wheel arch height is 468mm -24/+12 Rear wheel arch height is 468mm -24/+12

It's not going to work how you want it to. The sub gets its inputs from the rear speakers and a built in crossover. You would need to replace the OE woofer with an aftermarket one to use the sub output of your HU.

The top hats have to have some sort of bearing in them to allow for steering pivot. OE top hats fail, coilover tophats will too.

There's all sorts of cars out there that never made it back to the dealer once purchased. I would NEED to see the reman plate on the block before even contemplating purchasing an 11-13 forester. a non oil consuming FB is better than the EJ in near every way from an appliance standpoint. better economy and far easier oil changes. no ring of fire!

torque spec on oil pan and valve cover bolts are like 5-7nm. basically hand tight and another 1/8th turn. IMHO neither of those are worth addressing right now. What I would be concerned about is all the coolant residue on the timing cover and lower radiator hose... if you have bubbling happening in your reservoir then you have internal head gasket failure.

I believe the window seal at the top gets swollen and needs to be replaced.

Bruh, you answered your own question. If you have a new wobble/vibration with "new" worn out parts. It might be those worn out parts.

I do a truncated centric bedding. 3-4 medium semi-stops from 40, 3-4 hard semi-stops from 60-70. get the front wheels off the ground and grab them at 9 and 3 and give it a good back and forth. If you feel a shake while driving, you almost HAVE to feel some play in whatever component is bad.

The only keyless I messed around with was in my 1995 pathfinder, and that one did have a single wire antenna that had to be routed a certain way to avoid interference. I opted for an aftermarket alarm in my 2001 for better security and functionality.

Other than head unit functionality you're missing, your best bet might be to find the factory harmon kardon speaker upgrade. I love the stereo in my '17 limited. bass hits hard for being OE. I looked in to head units through crutchfield but not having maintenance reminders built in is pretty much a deal breaker for me, and the pickins are SLIM. Your other option was to get an '18. pretty sure those have the HK head units with carplay.

It's pretty wild but I actually have a picture of the tech that reinstalled your wiper arms!

Likely happened when they performed the wiper motor recall. glad to have this figured out!

Well at this point I think I'd just get whatever size is going to fit. buy a 24 and 18 and see if that's better

The group n mounts are going to add a lot of NVH.

Grab a tape measure and see how long the ones you took off were. I find the same information, 26 and 19. the long one does generally go on the driver side arm.

When you replaced the wheel bearings did you replace the hubs too? This makes my somethings weird if "it's fine for a few days" sense tingle. What brands of rotors and pads have you been using? Do you do a proper bedding procedure? Do you torque the lug nuts to 120nm?

They do look easy to replace. til they aren't and you have to drop the exhaust manifold. btdt.

There can be only one.

10 seconds per blade is pretty frickin time consuming

It's either your O2 sensors, or your MAF sensor. Start with the front O2 sensor. Repair costs vary by area. Labor rates are anywhere between 150-200 dollars an hour. Alldata calls for 1.7 hours of labor on top of whatever the shop wants to charge you for the sensor. They are quite a bit more expensive but I highly recommend a genuine subaru sensor. The only aftermarket front available on rockauto is NTK and I DO NOT recommend, if you can find a Denso go for it! 60 day warranty on the NTK lets you know how much you should trust those things.

(derp, a few posts up, "stage whatever cams" lol) sorry I haven't followed completely, do you have an aftermarket cam or OE? .25 on the exhaust is way too tight if OE. Spec is .30-.40 with .35 being ideal. I've only ever adjusted buckets by taking a measurement and going off the number. every 3 is a thousandth.