silverton

I'll assume that 'fuel filter' is a Freudian slip for the oil filter. The newer 3.6R's like the 15/16 generation have a larger undercover tray with a hole for the drain plug, and a removable door for the oil filter. I do not know if they are compatible with your year. Your year came with the smaller one, and a little add in piece that you had to remove to drain the oil and filter cleanly, and generally get forgotten to be reinstalled.

They both start at the front under the radiator, it just depends on how much more you want to cover. The smaller one on top is the one I normally find on those 3.6's. Still gives you access to remove the oil filter without oil hitting the tray.

There was never a RWD fuse for subaru's. Only a front wheel drive fuse. If you car is a manual you need to do some welding and axle removal. if it's an automatic, you need to look up the torque mada lite mod, and remove a front axle. when removing a front axle you still need the stub for the wheel bearing support, and if your axles are innies, you need to have the inner cup installed as well. I did this to my GC-RS, and while it was fun, the car only ever wanted to be sideways, and that was before the turbo.

Reverse is always the first gear to go when a transmission fails, it requires the highest line pressure. It's entirely possible you bent something, especially with the added vibration, you should take it to a shop where they can lift the car and inspect.

If you peruse parts.subaru.com you could find the OE part number for your under engine tray.

Every engine is different, but I would start with 3000 miles. If at 3000 miles you're still full and the oil looks okay like you can still sort of see through it, go for 3750-5000. If it's black/low... change it. The fresh rebuilt in my 2001 just turned 13,500 and at my last interval which lasted about 3200-3300 miles, it's perfectly on the full dot, but darker than I'd like it to be, this was the engines 6th oil change. Blackstone recommends between 3400-3600.

Oh buddy...they definitely have internal coolant passages. There's coolant passages into the timing cover as well. All boxer engines will have the same problems when cared for improperly, it's not the car if you catch my drift, boxer engines are far more prone to head gasket failure because your oil literally pools at the seam, the older your oil is the more likely it is to escape, once escaped it doesn't stop. I've seen many spotless EJ's from the early to mid 2000s with 100-130,000 miles and it's very clear that they're original. Of course these are the cars that are changing their oil at 2400 miles instead of 3000. I see head gaskets failing on FB motors all the time. Since you are under 100k, if you have been diligent with your service history (ie changing your oil every 6k per their recommendation, and doing the major services) they may help in some way.

avcs oil ports are easy to plug if you use too much glue.

brutal from as easy as an oil change, to replacing your longblock. I timed, and timed, and retimed, and someone else retimed an FB20 to make sure i was doing it right, in addition to replacing both intake cam barrels, and was not able to shake the p0011 and 21 codes... longblock fixed it.

Even the US 0-20 cars state in the manual that depending on climate, 5w30 is acceptable to use. Edit: Okay, so I know I've seen on some car that 5w30 was acceptable that had the FB motor. Looking up on alldata it shows the Forester only uses 0w20

strut mounts and top hats are the same thing. you should take it back and have the shop inspect it. the work they performed may have made another component fail(i know the ball joint isn't too happy when the strut is removed and the knuckle isn't supported), or the parts they put in were defective. just because it's new doesn't mean it's good.

Did you try new bulbs any way? If it's not the bulbs, it's likely the reverse switch on the transmission.

Not only that but the brakes failed because he had to ride them to keep the car from going too fast. Dude was stupid through and through and deserves whatever happens. I only feel sorry for the people that he hit, but hopefully bros pockets are deep enough they get a nice settlement. If the car is clean and you want to keep it, do the work. You can get in to an accident at any time in anything. If you have comprehensive coverage on your car you're good. When/If it gets totalled you can fight for the value of your car with your receipts. "Just put 6500 in to it three weeks ago, here's proof"

A stuck thermostat will do exactly what you're describing. I'm not discounting that it could be head gaskets, but... try replacing the thermostat.

Me too! Miles. It has to do with the oil consumption issues. You'd have to check with a local dealer, I know mine was very strict with it; if you didn't have a service history with them they pretty much told you to kick rocks, but like I said... at 168k it doesn't apply.

Sometimes there is just nothing you can do about a bolt breaking.

The week leading up to the job give both sides of that bolt a sprits of pb or wd daily. I live in the PacNW so I'm lucky to not deal with many rusty cars. I've only ever broken one of those pinch bolts and I've replaced hundreds of ball joints. The one that did break I drilled it out and used a bolt and nut. That 14mm pinch bolt is only 50nm torque spec. The castle is 40... Or maybe 39, with an additional 60° to locate the cotter pin. On ball joints without cotter pins I go to 60nm as I usually got between 55-65 when locating the cotter pin hole.

Replacing the engine will be far cheaper than a new car. Just the short block is 2000-2500 from Subaru. And then the 20ish hours of labor to replace it. Best bet is call around to local Subaru independents and see if they'll quote you for the job. Subaru extended their engine warranty on this motor to 100,000 but you're a bit beyond that.

I paid $3000 to get my 4eat rebuilt a year and a half ago. So... that's pretty average there bud. At this price point, the only buyer will be someone who bought a car without a transmission and wants to take the car to the grave with them; as Mr Febreze said. Good luck!

Get the front wheels off the ground, grab the wheel at 9 and 3 and try to rock it back and forth. You'll feel the play if there is any. 12 and 6 is your wheel bearing test, other than the absolute roar they make when failing... End links should not twist easily on their sockets.

there's definitely an issue with your intercooler. You can try squeezing that back down and see if it takes care of your issue.

ball joints and sway bar endlinks will do what you're describing when they are going bad.

I saw how these guys put an RB26 in to a Nissan S12, you may even know the car, it's kinda famous as it was the first RB26 in an s12. Granted, that was many years ago and things may have changed, but it was the most hacked together install I've seen and I would absolutely not take my car there. washers upon washers upon washers to space the motor mount enough... like come on figure it out! Okay okay, my bad. I swear it was modgarage that did the build on this one, but refreshing my memory with a google search shows that it was UpGarage

I paid $109.50 for four to be cleaned and flow tested with witch hunter. And $145.75 for Dr Injector to clean and flow test a set.

FOURTY FIVE HUNNIT???? Bruh.