ebo03 Posted August 26, 2013 Author Share Posted August 26, 2013 You figure ~350hp range then and ~400tq??? I want to see some crack over 375hp 225 at the wheels for a 300 crank HP car is a 25% loss for IAG's dyno. So 315/319 at the wheels calculates as 420/425 at the crank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBopper Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 Congrats on your results! Your numbers are consistent with what mine were also. After tweaking everything, wound up at 314 whp and 314 Tq (Mustang Dyno w/o correction). Power delivery is strong and smooth up to redline. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acumenhokie Posted August 27, 2013 Share Posted August 27, 2013 Your numbers are consistent with what mine were also. Do you have that same little dip both of us do at 4k RPMs? Any thoughts on what's causing it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ebo03 Posted August 27, 2013 Author Share Posted August 27, 2013 Yeah I'm wondering the same thing after looking at the graph. I really didn't look at the graph much with Jorge. We just talked about what was going on in the upper range and how he tuned around the boost creep issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBopper Posted August 27, 2013 Share Posted August 27, 2013 Do you have that same little dip both of us do at 4k RPMs? Any thoughts on what's causing it? Didn't notice any. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acumenhokie Posted August 27, 2013 Share Posted August 27, 2013 Yeah I'm wondering the same thing after looking at the graph. I really didn't look at the graph much with Jorge. We just talked about what was going on in the upper range and how he tuned around the boost creep issue. Didn't notice any. Any idea what the conditions were at the time of your tune? You have the dip too but very very very little and I have more than ebo03's chart. I know the conditions at my tune were over 100 degrees and ebo03 said it was 80 - 100 when he went. I wonder if it's just heat soak and is over powering the TMIC in high temps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ebo03 Posted August 27, 2013 Author Share Posted August 27, 2013 I've been looking at intercooler cores the past two days. I think I will attempt to design my own piping using the modified first pipe from the Racer X charge pipe kit. It will be time consuming but I think it can be done. I want to buy a set of winter wheels instead of paying a shop for a custom FMIC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ebo03 Posted August 28, 2013 Author Share Posted August 28, 2013 I have my eye on a couple different intercoolers, both 3" thick cores. Based on rough measurement there is about 3.5" between radiator and bumper beam. I'm going to remove bumper and beam this weekend and mock up a core which I'm cutting out of styrofoam to size. Once I verify fitment I'll order the core and start to figure out the piping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ebo03 Posted August 28, 2013 Author Share Posted August 28, 2013 Check out my intercooler! Core is 23.5" x 11.75" x 3". Total length including endtanks is 31" with 3" diameter inlet/outlet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acumenhokie Posted August 29, 2013 Share Posted August 29, 2013 Check out my intercooler! Core is 23.5" x 11.75" x 3". Total length including endtanks is 31" with 3" diameter inlet/outlet. You're going to need to hollow it out to get any kind of airflow through that thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ebo03 Posted August 29, 2013 Author Share Posted August 29, 2013 You're going to need to hollow it out to get any kind of airflow through that thing. Damnit I knew I was forgetting something. You must have an engineering degree from VT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EJ25subie05 Posted August 29, 2013 Share Posted August 29, 2013 haha that pic was wierd, looked like a legit intercooler that was covered so you dont bend fins lol... (not the enlarged picture might i add) paint it silver, put it on the car and ricers will love you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acumenhokie Posted August 29, 2013 Share Posted August 29, 2013 Damnit I knew I was forgetting something. You must have an engineering degree from VT. Business. I have a bunch of engineers working for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pfoyle Posted August 29, 2013 Share Posted August 29, 2013 MAJOR performance upgrade for 2.5is!!! There's a huge market for that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted August 29, 2013 Share Posted August 29, 2013 nice work man!!! pic of how it fits in the lower grille pleez!! GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ebo03 Posted August 30, 2013 Author Share Posted August 30, 2013 Cut out a second intercooler for mock up purposes. Same height (11.75") and thickness (3") as the other but 17.5" core with overall length 24.5". 3" inlet/outlet also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ebo03 Posted August 30, 2013 Author Share Posted August 30, 2013 Also I was looking last night and I think 2.5" piping is too big in some areas. Hopefully 2.25" will fit nicely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SomeZero Posted August 31, 2013 Share Posted August 31, 2013 How is your 20g at holding boost in the vf housing? Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ebo03 Posted August 31, 2013 Author Share Posted August 31, 2013 How is your 20g at holding boost in the vf housing? Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 4 Don't have a dyno graph showing boost so can't say for sure. But from my discussion with Jorge there is no issue with holding boost but boost creep due to the smallish TD05 frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ebo03 Posted September 1, 2013 Author Share Posted September 1, 2013 Got the PLX gauge that was not included in the box on Thursday and got around to installing it tonight. The gauge is wired with a serial connection so I had to widen out the hole in the dash as it was drilled for a USB size connector. It was a bit of a task as I had to remove the trim beneath the steering column, the trim around the stereo, and the gauge cluster. All are very simple with easily accessible screws and clips but still time consuming especially since it was my first time around so I was proceeding with extra caution. I put back everything except the lower trim. I need to hook the PLX system up to a laptop and get everything configured so I'll do that tomorrow then it'll be good to go. Fingers crossed that IAG wired everything correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s2baru Posted September 1, 2013 Share Posted September 1, 2013 If you don't mind posting a few pics of your gauge setup when all said and done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ebo03 Posted September 1, 2013 Author Share Posted September 1, 2013 If you don't mind posting a few pics of your gauge setup when all said and done Not a problem but it's really nothing visually exciting, which is exactly what I wanted instead of littering up the dash with muliple gauges. It's one gauge in the 52mm OEM pod located on the right side of the dash (about 1:30 on the steering wheel). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ebo03 Posted September 1, 2013 Author Share Posted September 1, 2013 Ok some pics to share. Some are blurry but I was just snapping quickly as I was moving along disassembling everything. Some things to note I think the core size I chose is going to be too tall at 11.75". Something around 8-9" would certainly be more ideal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ebo03 Posted September 1, 2013 Author Share Posted September 1, 2013 The filler neck of the windshield washer fluid tank can be easily removed to allow for more clearance of cold side piping. As you can see I have hardly used any fluid in my 2+ years of ownership so capping this tank would be no big loss for me. Going with a smaller battery and/or trimming some of the excess battery tray is also a possibility to free up some space in that area. Also the lower plastic piece that attaches to the sheet metal surrounding the radiator support (where the core sits in the post above) will probably have to be removed to allow for more of the core to be exposed beneath the crash beam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ebo03 Posted September 2, 2013 Author Share Posted September 2, 2013 So I'm debating upon the following...modify OEM crash beam for 3" core or buy an AMS crash beam for either GD or GR STI and modify it for the 5th gen Legacy. AMS crash beam would allow for a thicker core as the AMS core is 3.5". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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