My stage 2, etc. install thread - Q&A

[BarManBean]

Yeah, VBG1 will definitely be all driver-side wiring.

[fahr_side]

On my WRX there was a spare (empty) fuse position, wired to ACC.

[BoozeRS05]

Are you considering an AOS or catch can?

[BarManBean]

Are you considering an AOS or catch can?

 

Nope. Not at the moment.

 

Started tearing things apart this afternoon:

 

http://i934.photobucket.com/albums/ad187/BarManBean/DSC_0005_zpsb60a4fa2.jpg

[BarManBean]

Started installing the grimmspeed master cylinder brace. I've removed just about every bolt in the area and I don't really have any wiggle room to move the fuel lines, etc. out of the way.

 

What the hell am I missing here...?

 

Edit: just watched a video and think I might have a better handle on it. Will revisit later tonight.

[rhino6303]

First question: what's the consensus on using splice connectors for wiring? I need to power the PLX unit and I'm thinking about just splicing into the cigarette plug wiring.

 

I tapped the ignition fuse for my wideband and oil pressure gauges so they are only on with the ignition on (not acc) and tapped the tail lights/clearance fuse for the gauge dimmer.

 

Good luck.

[Nolmers06LGT]

They'll make me happy everytime I open the hood Most of the other stuff is pretty bare bones / necessity based. STI UP instead of something aftermarket, cobb downpipe is spendy but i found a good deal used, BP TMIC kit (i know a guy who gives me a good deal ). Nearly all of the other parts are used as well (or I already have them from the previous car)

 

I definitely can't argue with you though: they fix a problem that doesn't exist, so yes, they are just straight bling.

 

They fix a problem that does exist.. A few months ago a gust of wind caught my hood, knocked the hood prop loose, and my hood came crashing down. I'm still not entirely convinced that everything is OK from this. Hood struts would have been nice:spin:

 

Nice build list- If I could do it again I'd go with a list a little closer to yours. As far as the splice connectors go, I'd also recommend going away from these. Mine slipped around a little and I couldn't get good contact. I ended up rewiring.

[Max Capacity]

So here's another question. Previous owner installed one-step colder NGK plugs. I don't believe I need them, but the car has been running fine with them.

 

I have a set of stock plugs on the shelf, is it worth changing them out or should I just run with the plugs that are in there now? I've done plugs before and don't mind the job terribly, just not sure if it's worth the effort...

 

I think most of you know, I've been on one step colder plugs in my wagon for a very long time, since Oct 11 2009. They were $10.00 cheaper then the stock plugs.

[BarManBean]

I think most of you know, I've been on one step colder plugs in my wagon for a very long time, since Oct 11 2009. They were $10.00 cheaper then the stock plugs.

 

Yeah, I'm just gonna leave 'em for now. If something pops up during the tune that dictates changing them I have no problem doing that.

[Max Capacity]

All the one step colder dose, is make it easier for the Tuner.

 

Plus save you $10.00.

[BarManBean]

So what else am I supposed to be doing while intercooler / downpipe / up pipe are removed. Banjo bolt is pretty much new, although I guess I may as well check it. Turbo shaft is good to go. Should I bother with pulling / greasing the starter (if so what kind of grease)?

 

I have a PCV valve but don't know that I'll replace it. Those clamps look shitty to deal with...

[Nolmers06LGT]

I have a PCV valve but don't know that I'll replace it. Those clamps look shitty to deal with...

 

I'm in the same boat- I don't plan to replace mine until I have to pull the turbo. It looks like it will be much easier then- That bottom hose clamp definitely looks discouraging.

 

If you are looking for maintenance things to check on, the ground straps could probably be inspected. Mine are FUBAR; new ones will be going in soon.

 

Are you planning to replace the pitch stop?

[BarManBean]

I'm in the same boat- I don't plan to replace mine until I have to pull the turbo. It looks like it will be much easier then- That bottom hose clamp definitely looks discouraging.

 

If you are looking for maintenance things to check on, the ground straps could probably be inspected. Mine are FUBAR; new ones will be going in soon.

 

Are you planning to replace the pitch stop?

 

I'll check the straps while I'm there.

 

Wasn't planning on the pitch stop. Should I?

[mr.hicksta]

I'll check the straps while I'm there.

 

Wasn't planning on the pitch stop. Should I?

 

Keep the OEM pitch stop. You'll get a lot of NVH with an aftermarket one.

[BarManBean]

Keep the OEM pitch stop. You'll get a lot of NVH with an aftermarket one.

 

Kinda what I figgered.

[BoozeRS05]

Good suggestion on the ground straps, mine are about to disintegrate. You have a southern car though, so you may be good there.

 

 

Like I said before, I'm at a similar place and I'm considering a catch can or Grimmspeed AOS.

[BarManBean]

Good suggestion on the ground straps, mine are about to disintegrate. You have a southern car though, so you may be good there.

 

 

Like I said before, I'm at a similar place and I'm considering a catch can or Grimmspeed AOS.

 

Why? And I think it's been said that the GS AOS has some design flaws, might want to spring for the crawford if you go that route.

[Max Capacity]

I would pull the starter and grease it, the tmic is off, the starter is a piece of cake.

 

Oh yes, what about the oil return hose from the turbo, is it dry and hard. I'll bet it is.

 

Also are you going to get bolts to replace the studs that hold the turbo on ?

[BarManBean]

I would pull the starter and grease it, the tmic is off, the starter is a piece of cake.

 

Ok.

 

Oh yes, what about the oil return hose from the turbo, is it dry and hard. I'll bet it is.

 

Haven't checked. Where does that run, exactly? I'll check tonight.

 

Also are you going to get bolts to replace the studs that hold the turbo on ?

 

I'm not removing the turbo so didn't plan on replacing any bolts that hold the turbo in place. Am I following correctly here?

[BoozeRS05]

My understanding is that with a stg2 setup seeing higher boost, you'll see increased blow-by. I've replaced my PCV and I'm not seeing much oil in the intercooler, but I'm under the impression that it's still worth the +/- $100.

[bucko3the7man]

I didn't think the pcv was that bad on my 05. They might have changed the design for your car though. I did have to break the rubber to get the hose off the block though.

[Nolmers06LGT]

Keep the OEM pitch stop. You'll get a lot of NVH with an aftermarket one.

 

I've swapped back and forth between my stock pitch stop and my group-N part a few times, all at around stg2 power. At these power levels the motor wants to move around a lot. Even with upgraded trans. mount, x-member bushings, front/rear shifter bushings, and the rear diff bushings, there is a considerable difference between the stock/group-N pitch stops. While there is a considerable increase in NVH, it's nothing that my fiancee or sleeping infant have noticed, so it can't be that bad. The motor doesn't want to buck in between shifts as much, and shifting is much more crisp.

 

Of course, you can drive around it with the stocker and keep NVH down, but I'll stick with my solid shifting. To each their own. I would definitely advise against the heavier-duty pitch stops.. I can't imagine the amount of NVH those would produce.

[Max Capacity]

Oh I thought a read you had the turbo off too, sorry.

 

The oil return hose is under the turbo to a elbow on the head. To change it out, you'll have to lift the turbo.

 

If you do that, the banjo filter will be easier to check. Not sure how much depped you want to dig into the car.

 

The oil return has been known to crack in a few cars. On the other hand there are a few cars at over 200k and no problems. When I did my turbo, it was a no brainer to do the hose too.

[Max Capacity]

I've swapped back and forth between my stock pitch stop and my group-N part a few times, all at around stg2 power. At these power levels the motor wants to move around a lot. Even with upgraded trans. mount, x-member bushings, front/rear shifter bushings, and the rear diff bushings, there is a considerable difference between the stock/group-N pitch stops. While there is a considerable increase in NVH, it's nothing that my fiancee or sleeping infant have noticed, so it can't be that bad. The motor doesn't want to buck in between shifts as much, and shifting is much more crisp.

 

Of course, you can drive around it with the stocker and keep NVH down, but I'll stick with my solid shifting. To each their own. I would definitely advise against the heavier-duty pitch stops.. I can't imagine the amount of NVH those would produce.

 

 

I have the STI tranny mount, $70.00 made a huge difference in how the wagon shift's and limited tranny movement. I did that mod in Aug 2004.

[Nolmers06LGT]

I have the STI tranny mount, $70.00 made a huge difference in how the wagon shift's and limited tranny movement.

 

That's what I've got in mine as well.. It's nothing too stiff, but it makes a big difference. I'm just surprised more people aren't running a group-n pitch stop. Are there a lot of people running OEM pitch stops at stage-2+ power levels?