Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

My stage 2, etc. install thread - Q&A


Recommended Posts

I still have the OEM one in there.

 

I have thought about the pitch stop from time to time, just never pulled the tigger on one.

 

Hey can I say that now, I wouldn't want some congressman saying I shouldn't ever sponsor a race...

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 95
  • Created
  • Last Reply
It's well worth it IMO.. I'd be tempted to pull mine and send it to you to try out, but I'm not sure it's worth the shipping cost, considering a new Group-N is $54. The only drivetrain bushings I haven't touched yet are the propshaft support and the rear diff x-member bushings(can't break damn bolt loose). It's a little noisy, but so worth it. You don't even realize how much you compensate for the motor movement until you make the upgrade. I've even switched back and learned how to drive around it, only to put the Group-N back in.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators
I'll keep the OEM pitch stop for now. I'll be installing the group N transmission mount and front kartboy shifter bushings. Will see how those do and maybe add the rear bushing and pitch stop down the road if I feel like it. TMIC is easy to remove (stock = no fitment issues FTW) so the pitchstop would be easy to get to and change if I decide to do that.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators
It's well worth it IMO.. I'd be tempted to pull mine and send it to you to try out, but I'm not sure it's worth the shipping cost, considering a new Group-N is $54. The only drivetrain bushings I haven't touched yet are the propshaft support and the rear diff x-member bushings(can't break damn bolt loose). It's a little noisy, but so worth it. You don't even realize how much you compensate for the motor movement until you make the upgrade. I've even switched back and learned how to drive around it, only to put the Group-N back in.

 

I'll keep an eye out for a used one or something and explore it later down the road. I also don't want to change over so many components at once that I have no idea what did what.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll keep an eye out for a used one or something and explore it later down the road. I also don't want to change over so many components at once that I have no idea what did what.

 

Smart.. Then you don't have to pull parts off and put OEM parts back on to decipher what did what, like I did :lol: I really feel dumb that I did my timing belt and LCA bushings on the same install.. I have a vibration and I have no idea how to tell whether its from my bushings translating more NVH, or I biffed my timing belt install. I just figured I'd contribute to the "while you're in there.." mentality:lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators
Smart.. Then you don't have to pull parts off and put OEM parts back on to decipher what did what, like I did :lol: I really feel dumb that I did my timing belt and LCA bushings on the same install.. I have a vibration and I have no idea how to tell whether its from my bushings translating more NVH, or I biffed my timing belt install. I just figured I'd contribute to the "while you're in there.." mentality:lol:

 

"While you're in there" doesn't really apply to timing belt / LCA work--completely different components, lol.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"While you're in there" doesn't really apply to timing belt / LCA work--completely different components, lol.

 

Shhh... My fiancee doesn't know that.. :hide:

 

Actually, I was referring to the pitch stop in your case. I decided to do the LCA work/timing belt at the same time because, well, the car was already in the air and I knew the fiancee was going to raise hell for me working on the car all weekend. I won't have time to touch the LGT for awhile, might as well install the parts I already have:lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's well worth it IMO.. I'd be tempted to pull mine and send it to you to try out, but I'm not sure it's worth the shipping cost, considering a new Group-N is $54. The only drivetrain bushings I haven't touched yet are the propshaft support and the rear diff x-member bushings(can't break damn bolt loose). It's a little noisy, but so worth it. You don't even realize how much you compensate for the motor movement until you make the upgrade. I've even switched back and learned how to drive around it, only to put the Group-N back in.

 

Noise is not a real issue for me in the wagon. It's pretty raw any way's, loud and fast. LOL

 

It's one thing I'll do someday. This spring time I have other projects to do. DP for the Spec is one of them.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • I Donated
Oh yes, what about the oil return hose from the turbo, is it dry and hard. I'll bet it is.

 

Definitely check this. I'm pretty sure that's where I was losing oil on my 05 when I first got it, which of course led to the spun bearing due to low oil. The hose was brittle and the inside was disintegrating when I pulled everything apart to swap in a new engine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Once I had the GrpN motor and transmission mounts in place I found no extra benefit from using the GrpN pitch stop that came in the set. It just made an awful noise in the bulkhead but brought no perceptible benefit in rubber-banding, shift feel or anything else.

I've swapped back and forth between my stock pitch stop and my group-N part a few times, all at around stg2 power. At these power levels the motor wants to move around a lot. Even with upgraded trans. mount, x-member bushings, front/rear shifter bushings, and the rear diff bushings, there is a considerable difference between the stock/group-N pitch stops. While there is a considerable increase in NVH, it's nothing that my fiancee or sleeping infant have noticed, so it can't be that bad. The motor doesn't want to buck in between shifts as much, and shifting is much more crisp.

 

Of course, you can drive around it with the stocker and keep NVH down, but I'll stick with my solid shifting. To each their own. I would definitely advise against the heavier-duty pitch stops.. I can't imagine the amount of NVH those would produce.:eek:

Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators

Up pipe is installed, downpipe is heatwrapped and drying. For those that have done an up pipe install you know this is a good night :)

 

Also bullet-proofed my TMIC--it feels funny doing it for myself this time, lol.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Once I had the GrpN motor and transmission mounts in place I found no extra benefit from using the GrpN pitch stop that came in the set. It just made an awful noise in the bulkhead but brought no perceptible benefit in rubber-banding, shift feel or anything else.

 

Interesting- I'm on stock motor mounts.. Maybe that's why I notice a difference with the pitch stop. If I can get the same feel and eliminate the noise, I may swap out for group-N motor mounts and go back to a stock pitch stop.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would do exactly that.
Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Up pipe is installed, downpipe is heatwrapped and drying. For those that have done an up pipe install you know this is a good night :)

 

Also bullet-proofed my TMIC--it feels funny doing it for myself this time, lol.

 

So you want us to think it's a big job to install a up pipe...oh yea, that's right. I did my last one with the engine on the engine stand...nervermind...;)

 

 

 

Is the turbo back on yet ?

 

Be careful lining upthe inlet hose and oil return hose, the inlet will cut very easy on the turbo inlet. That's why I used bolts instead of the studs on the up pipe.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators
So you want us to think it's a big job to install a up pipe...oh yea, that's right. I did my last one with the engine on the engine stand...nervermind...;)

 

 

 

Is the turbo back on yet ?

 

Be careful lining upthe inlet hose and oil return hose, the inlet will cut very easy on the turbo inlet. That's why I used bolts instead of the studs on the up pipe.

 

You know what's a big job? You remembering stuff, old man!

 

The turbo still isn't coming off the car, so yes, it's back on :lol:

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use