My stage 2, etc. install thread - Q&A

[BarManBean]

Rather than ask random questions all over the place during the next week or so I figured I'd start this one up. Here's the basic list of what I'm hoping to install in short order:

 

Here's the list of parts / what's planned:

 

• Spark plug change
  
• Cobb Downpipe
  
• STI Up Pipe
  
• Grimmspeed EBCS
  
• Forge BPV
  
• BP TMIC Kit
  
• PLX Wideband
  
• aFe Air Filter
  
• Oil Change, MAF cleaning
  

All of the above needs to get done all at once for my stage 2 tune. Assuming it all gets done here's the rest of the list:

 

 

• VBG1
  
• Redline Tuning Hood Struts
  
• PCV Valve replacement
  
• Stainless Steel Brake Lines and flush
  
• TRS Retroquik HIDs
  
• Grimmspeed Master Cylinder Brace
  
• Group N Transmission Mount
  
• Front / Rear sway bars with end links
  

[BarManBean]

First question: what's the consensus on using splice connectors for wiring? I need to power the PLX unit and I'm thinking about just splicing into the cigarette plug wiring.

[BoozeRS05]

Subbed..

 

You and I are almost at the exact same place, and I've got a very similar list of parts about ready to go into surgery.

[BarManBean]

Subbed..

 

You and I are almost at the exact same place, and I've got a very similar list of parts about ready to go into surgery.

 

Fun times I've done a lot of the stuff previously but I know I'll still have spur of the moment questions that pop up, especially with regard to wiring things up.

[BoozeRS05]

I'm not able to comment on wiring unfortunately, it's one area that's outside my comfort zone.

 

I'm excited to just be done with it and hopefully be happy for awhile

[sodium303]

I have used splice connectors a lot when i installed alarm systems in various vehicles. It is a hell of a lot better and not to mention safer than splicong the wire and using electrical tape and even soldering.

 

-Anthony

 

Are talking about these splice connectors? If so those are the ones i would def reccomend.

[BarManBean]

If it's better than soldering that's all I need to hear--and yes those are the connectors I'm referring to. I'll pick some up to have on hand.

[.Catalyst.]

I'd go with an "add a fuse" style vs. the splice connector. I did this for my hardwired radar detector and will be doing it for my VBG1. They aren't the cheapest option but I prefer the option of separate fuses. I think NAPA had them for like $20 for the mini bus style fuse locally but it inlcudes a handful of fuses as well. If you buy with the VBG1 he has them cheaper and they can be found online for much much less as well.

 

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/PCO-0956PT.jpg

[BarManBean]

I'd go with an "add a fuse" style vs. the splice connector. I did this for my hardwired radar detector and will be doing it for my VBG1. They aren't the cheapest option but I prefer the option of separate fuses. I think NAPA had them for like $20 for the mini bus style fuse locally but it inlcudes a handful of fuses as well. If you buy with the VBG1 he has them cheaper and they can be found online for much much less as well.

 

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/PCO-0956PT.jpg

 

I used one of these for my previous UEGO install. It worked fine for sure, but since I'm coming in on the passenger side I'd like to avoid passing unnecessary wires all the way across the car. I guess I can consider coming in on the driver-side again, but I'm leaning towards passenger.

 

FWIW, I've actually found that advance has those add-a-fuses for the cheapest, even compared to amazon.

[.Catalyst.]

Oh and the vampire tap mentioned earlier is not better than soldering

[BarManBean]

Dammit.

[.Catalyst.]

I used one of these for my previous UEGO install. It worked fine for sure, but since I'm coming in on the passenger side I'd like to avoid passing unnecessary wires all the way across the car. I guess I can consider coming in on the driver-side again, but I'm leaning towards passenger.

 

FWIW, I've actually found that advance has those add-a-fuses for the cheapest, even compared to amazon.

I'd go driver side on the VBG1 since that's where your display will be (less wiring overall I'd think. I don't have Advance here Napa, O'reilly's and Autozone are the bigger ones and we have a regional chain called Baxter's.

[.Catalyst.]

Dammit.

 

Even with the add-a-fuse I'd clip off that butt connector and solder that as well... solder and shrink-wrap rules for continuity and durability if done correctly.

[Max Capacity]

I see you have a 05...Catless up pipe ???

[BarManBean]

I see you have a 05...Catless up pipe ???

 

It's in the list, brah! (STI up pipe)

[rob-2]

What is your target boost?

 

I'm making 15-16psi with just the Invidia Catless DP

[chato]

Just out of curiosity, why not just integrate a wideband into the vbg1?

[Max Capacity]

It's in the list, brah! (STI up pipe)

 

Nevermind...I'll go hide behind the couch now...in shame. lol

[BarManBean]

Just out of curiosity, why not just integrate a wideband into the vbg1?

 

That's the plan. The only gauge in the car will be the VBG1. You still need a wideband sensor and unit though, the VBG1 is just a display gauge for anything other than boost AFAIK.

[BarManBean]

What is your target boost?

 

I'm making 15-16psi with just the Invidia Catless DP

 

Dunno yet. I'll pretty much leave that up to my tuner.

[chato]

I believe that there has to be a shared ground between the wideband and the VBG1, so you might plan on that as far as wiring goes. Might double check the VBG1 instructions.

If you are already running wire to a shared ground, it makes the fuse tap option more attractive. No fan of the vampire taps, ultimately degrades the existing wire and they are generally a pain.

[rob-2]

Dunno yet. I'll pretty much leave that up to my tuner.

 

Stock turbo will max out around 19psi on 91 oc gas.

 

I ask, because all of what you're buying is not required if you're looking for modest gains. Maybe talk to tuner before you buy all these items. For example there is evidence on this forum changing the TMIC on stock turbo results in power loss.

[BarManBean]

Stock turbo will max out around 19psi on 91 oc gas.

 

I ask, because all of what you're buying is not required if you're looking for modest gains. Maybe talk to tuner before you buy all these items. For example there is evidence on this forum changing the TMIC on stock turbo results in power loss.

 

You're going off on unnecessary tangents--this isn't meant to get advice on my build as far as parts are concerned. I've chosen all of my parts for a reason and I'm aware of the benefits or lack-there-of. All of the parts that you are assuming will have little benefit will have significant benefit when a new turbo is added down the road, I'm just choosing to install them now.

 

No one even mentioned using anything other than the stock intercooler

[mr.hicksta]

You're going off on unnecessary tangents--this isn't meant to get advice on my build as far as parts are concerned. I've chosen all of my parts for a reason and I'm aware of the benefits or lack-there-of. All of the parts that you are assuming will have little benefit will have significant benefit when a new turbo is added down the road, I'm just choosing to install them now.

 

No one even mentioned using anything other than the stock intercooler

 

Whatever newb.

 

 

 

[BarManBean]

I believe that there has to be a shared ground between the wideband and the VBG1, so you might plan on that as far as wiring goes. Might double check the VBG1 instructions.

If you are already running wire to a shared ground, it makes the fuse tap option more attractive. No fan of the vampire taps, ultimately degrades the existing wire and they are generally a pain.

 

 

Will definitely check into it, thanks--and yeah, leaning away from the vamp taps and I don't have an issue with a bit of soldering.