a93x Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 diff fluid is its own compartment and so is atf fluid. you fill atf through the tranny dipstick tube. use a funnel with a long flex tube. it might take a while but thats how you fill the tranny. no other way. Thanks for the help bmx, do you know how many qts diff takes and do I use the same fluid for it? (synthetic atf) torque impresses girrls, hp impresses flat-bills Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 go to the dealer and buy 5 qts of ATF-HP for the tranny. its 5eat atf, the 4eat tranny uses diff fluid so make sure it says HP on the bottle(silver bottles). diff fluid is 70w-90, i use mobil 1 or valvoline, really anything thats GL-5 rated is fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a93x Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 like this? torque impresses girrls, hp impresses flat-bills Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted August 8, 2012 Author Share Posted August 8, 2012 like this? That will work [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CUNNINGHAM Posted August 11, 2012 Share Posted August 11, 2012 My wife has a 05 OBXT with a 5EAT stock and I have a 08 Legacy GT with a 5EAT Stage 2. Her car has 12,000 miles and mine has 75,000. These are our first Subaru Automatics. Her car shifts so much faster and sharper than mine. Mine seems very delayed and sluggish on acceleration. I don't feel any slippage or anything weird in mine it's just lazy. I have replaced the trans fluid and filter in mine with OEM fluid and filter. Her car has Royal Purple in it. Any thoughts? Whats the best way to check the line pressures in this tranny? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CUNNINGHAM Posted August 11, 2012 Share Posted August 11, 2012 ^^^^^^^ Just installed the SSM software and reset the TCM.....WOW what a difference! Shifts in auto mode are faster and more responsive in manual mode it shifts much faster, not how I want it to but a huge improvement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 Don't worry it will learn itself back into its' retarded ways Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 Thanks for the help bmx, do you know how many qts diff takes and do I use the same fluid for it? (synthetic atf) Front diff: 1.4-1.6 quarts Rear diff: 0.8 quarts Make sure you replace the gaskets and don't overtorque the bolts Use any good synthetic 75w90 and you won't have to worry about it for many miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 Better yet, hereFront & Rear Differential Oil Replacement.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.blackgt. Posted August 28, 2012 Share Posted August 28, 2012 I know I'm beating a dead horse, but is there any measurable progress on the VB mod for the 08+? Percentage wise, give us all some hope!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
javed1984 Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 does anyone know if the ECU needs to be retuned when the F1 Valve body upgrade is installed?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted August 29, 2012 Mega Users Share Posted August 29, 2012 No. Just a tcu reset. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockgod Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 Anyone know the part number to the 5eat transmission pan filter? Can't seem to find it. Thanks for any help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 As others have said the shift from 2nd to 1st I get a "chunk", but if I just slow down/stop in second it will autoshift to 1st without the "chunk". Is this a bad idea? Also whats the max speed/rpm that I can be at when downshifting to 1st? It seems to be somewhere around 25 - 30 mph, which seems a little higher that other cars I've driven. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted August 30, 2012 Moderators Share Posted August 30, 2012 Why would you downshift to 1st if you are going that fast--so you can race the engine and then immediately shift back to 2nd? Don't downshift to 1st, really almost no reason to ever do it. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCASEYS Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 does anyone know if the ECU needs to be retuned when the F1 Valve body upgrade is installed?? maybe, mine relearned on it's own just fine others have used the FreeSSM to reboot the TCU Dave, what are your thoughts on this? I donated to LegacyGT.com which allows me to have this nifty signature.   If anything SCASEYS posts ever becomes a sticky i'm gonna light this whole place on fire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgt_nube Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 To engine-brake down a steep hill. I do it a few times a week, usually at about 20 mph as one particular hill gets steeper. I get no "chunk" at all. Don't downshift to 1st, really almost no reason to ever do it. A few photos of the LGT My current ride Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 Shifting 101, 1st is the gear used to take off from a dead stop. It is not a cruising gear or used for anything else. On MTs it won't even go in 1st unless you're almost at a dead stop. Too often have I seen drivers that deem themselves good mt drivers try to force it into 1st. The gearing causes such an abrupt change that it cannot possibly be helpful or healthy, mt or at. I would stop using it I such a manner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted August 30, 2012 Mega Users Share Posted August 30, 2012 Meh. It's fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted August 30, 2012 Moderators Share Posted August 30, 2012 To engine-brake down a steep hill. I do it a few times a week, usually at about 20 mph as one particular hill gets steeper. I get no "chunk" at all. Brake pads are cheaper than a transmission. I could understand if you were going down a hill that was long/steep enough to cause significant brake fade / failure that downshifting to 1st might be necessary--I doubt that's the case though. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 I was just saying as I come to a stop I shift into 1st, probably ~10 mph. Was just wondering what the max rpm/speed is for first. No I'm not planning on shifting into 1st doing 40 mph or shifting to 1st then right back to second. The first part of my drive home is stop and go, so there is quite a bit of shifting. Downhill I'm usually in 3rd since we are usually traveling 35 - 50 mph. I was just wondering as I'm coming to a stop if shifting into 1st or letting the car shift for me is better/worse or no impact either way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted August 30, 2012 Moderators Share Posted August 30, 2012 Lol, there's actually zero shifting on your drive home--you have an autobox. No impact on letting the car shift into first for you except you'll avoid the "lurch" that you probably get when you downshift into first at any speed above 5mph. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 Lol, there's actually zero shifting on your drive home--you have an autobox. No impact on letting the car shift into first for you except you'll avoid the "lurch" that you probably get when you downshift into first at any speed above 5mph. Looks like neither of us are actually shifting  Thanks I kinda figured. The good ol lurch... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgt_nube Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 (edited) >Brake pads are cheaper than a transmission< That's of course a true statement, but it says nothing about whether using engine braking shortens the life of the transmission. I've seen or heard no evidence that it does. It's how I learned to drive a long time ago, I've done it with all my cars (which I've driven up to 280K miles), and have never had a transmission problem, auto or manual. Brake pads are cheaper than a transmission. I could understand if you were going down a hill that was long/steep enough to cause significant brake fade / failure that downshifting to 1st might be necessary--I doubt that's the case though. Edited August 30, 2012 by lgt_nube A few photos of the LGT My current ride Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow05gtRI Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 if you're going downhill and it's fairly steep, 2nd should be able to handle the engine braking....? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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