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5EAT Ask your Questions!?!


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Put it in full manual mode (stop, move to sport, then tap - twice). Drive until the engine almost redlines and note the speed. Don't downshift to first if you're going faster than that.

 

Coasting with the trans in gear uses less fuel then if it shifts into neutral on you. It will do this at around 30mph (50kph), unless you are in manual and put it in a gear on purpose. At those speeds, my display shows 2L/100km in neutral and 0.2L/100km in gear. Or 10x more fuel when not in fuel cut.

 

How's that for a reason? ;)

 

I have a better one, though. If your exhaust isn't stock, it sounds better in gear.

Edited by notthesnail
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if you're going downhill and it's fairly steep, 2nd should be able to handle the engine braking....?

 

2nd should, but near redline around 40 - 45 mph, that's why I keep in 3rd, slow and shift into 2nd for sharper turns (read: people in front of me can't corner to save their lives)

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Anyone know the part number to the 5eat transmission pan filter? Can't seem to find it. Thanks for any help.

 

I don't see a part number for it. It's a strainer, not a filter like the 08-09 VB. Transtar sells it now, probably an aftermarket version.

 

maybe, mine relearned on it's own just fine

others have used the FreeSSM to reboot the TCU

 

Dave, what are your thoughts on this?

 

It should re-learn on its own, but I have heard instances where it gets hung up and does not learn like it normally should. Hard to say what was going on there, since usually an F1 customer has already modified half the car.

 

Shifting 101, 1st is the gear used to take off from a dead stop. It is not a cruising gear or used for anything else. On MTs it won't even go in 1st unless you're almost at a dead stop. Too often have I seen drivers that deem themselves good mt drivers try to force it into 1st.

The gearing causes such an abrupt change that it cannot possibly be helpful or healthy, mt or at. I would stop using it I such a manner.

 

I would have to look at the power flow diagrams once more to confirm, but as far as I know the wear comes from a tremendous resistance going from 2nd to 1st. The actual engine braking involves one or two other transmission brakes, depending on which mode you're in (D or Sport/Manual).

 

Brake pads are cheaper than a transmission. I could understand if you were going down a hill that was long/steep enough to cause significant brake fade / failure that downshifting to 1st might be necessary--I doubt that's the case though.

 

I don't think it makes a major difference, but I'm of the school of thought that you primarily use the pedals to do the work.

 

>Brake pads are cheaper than a transmission<

 

That's of course a true statement, but it says nothing about whether using engine braking shortens the life of the transmission. I've seen or heard no evidence that it does. It's how I learned to drive a long time ago, I've done it with all my cars (which I've driven up to 280K miles), and have never had a transmission problem, auto or manual.

 

See above, the act of a heavy gear change causes wear. Infrequently = little wear. Often = more wear.

 

By the same token, never shifting means your transmission will last nearly forever.

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Is it at all possible to modify an 05/06 tcu for rev matching?

 

Nope. TCU does send a timing-pull to the ECU for shifting, which is as good as it is going to get with stock TCU.

[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
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Is it at all possible to modify an 05/06 tcu for rev matching?

 

Possible and feasible are very different things. It isn't going to happen. I'm pretty sure any sort of TCU hacking isn't going to happen since no one with disassembly experience cares enough to tackle it.

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New owner of 05 5EAT. Have had some tranny issues already. Supposedly now fixed, we'll see. Issue was almost no fluid on the stick. Dealer did a flush, and those codes seemed to have cleared.

 

How much downshifting should the car be doing when I hit the brakes (in normal street driving)? I am really noticing this (both engine noise and car motion), and wonder if this is normal or a sign of more tranny fun to come.

 

Thanks for any insights here.

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New owner of 05 5EAT. Have had some tranny issues already. Supposedly now fixed, we'll see. Issue was almost no fluid on the stick.

Thanks for any insights here.

 

Trying not to make another tranny joke...must...refrain...

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I don't really know the answer to your question, but I don't notice anything in my 2005 LGT auto when braking normally (in Drive). It doesn't noticeably downshift while braking.

 

New owner of 05 5EAT.

 

How much downshifting should the car be doing when I hit the brakes (in normal street driving)? I am really noticing this (both engine noise and car motion), and wonder if this is normal or a sign of more tranny fun to come.

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Looking at possibly grabbing a derale 13011 thermostat. Anyone know if these will fail "open" or "closed" or have a good reason why I should get a different thermostat?

 

I don't know, but...

If it fails open, you won't be able to get into 5th gear,

If it fails closed, your ATF temp light will come on.

So either way, you will have a pretty good indication that something failed.

[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
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if it failed open why wouldn't I be able to get into 5th gear? Wouldn't it be operating exactly the same was as it is now with no thermostat?

 

You don't recommend any thermostat in particular do you?

 

I don't have enough experience to comment on brand reliability, but I have seen them on some pretty high quality builds, FWIW.

 

Trans won't let you go into 5th gear if ATF is too cold (in order to help it warm up). Maybe you can override in Manual, I haven't watched for that in particular. If you're not looping out the stock radiator from the ATF path, then it will not be as obvious. If you're looping out the stock radiator, then it will be very obvious if the thermostat fails.

[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
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Stock stall is 3500rpm. That is plenty for the stock turbo or a NA H6.

Of course higher stall would yield a harder launch but you also have to consider the need to strengthen the center diff as to keep it from grenading as well as the sacrifice of drivability and possibly mpg. When I say drivability I mean the car will feel even more rubberband-ish and slushy as it already is. Lower stall always makes the transmission feel more akin to a MT.

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With the VB upgrade, what's the hp/torque limits? I've tried searching. I don't even own an LGT, so forgive my ignorance. I'm just in the market for one, and am trying to decide what I'd be happier with 5mt/5eat.

 

I eventually plan on modding and knowing the limits of each will help me to narrow down my search.

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