jblackwell1 Posted August 9, 2011 Author Share Posted August 9, 2011 is there a specific oil that i should run for break in besides the standard recommended oil? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 9, 2011 Share Posted August 9, 2011 You'll get lots of opinions on that question. Did you say someone is building the engine ? Ask them. I would just use a name brand 5-30 for the first 20 minutes. Then change the oil and filter. Then take the car off jacks and drive it. Make sure you have a good tune for a base map. That's the most important thing, after making sure the fuel pump is working correctly. We lost a race engine once in the first 20 minutes of run time because the fuel pump was working intermittently. We have the 4 CP pistons to show for it. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrHellrais3R Posted August 10, 2011 Share Posted August 10, 2011 I would run cheap dino oil for the first few oil changes at least to 500 miles or more. You don't want thinner oil running through the motor in break in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suds2250 Posted August 11, 2011 Share Posted August 11, 2011 I ran regular dino oil for 1500 miles, and followed this link for break-in. My car with 4032 forged pistons does not use a drop of oil. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm 335HP/360Tq VF-22/1820 clone with Meth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jblackwell1 Posted August 11, 2011 Author Share Posted August 11, 2011 Someone just bought a blouch 2.5xtr, perrin intake, and perrin inlet mwahaha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrHellrais3R Posted August 11, 2011 Share Posted August 11, 2011 niceee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jblackwell1 Posted August 12, 2011 Author Share Posted August 12, 2011 Met up with a local guy today and ended up getting a Blouch 2.5xtr, 3 inch Perrin inlet, and a Perrin intake. Im not sure the Perrin intake will work on my car (from an STi iirc) but for the price i thought id take a chance and see. This completes my buying of parts minus fluids or gaskets and small stuff like that. Final Mod List to Date: ENGINE: 2011 sti short block -forged internals w CP pistons Fast Motorsports FMIC South Bend stage 2 HD Daily clutch Deatschwerks Side Feed 1100cc injectors Walbro 255lph fuel pump CNT catless Down Pipe GT Spec UEL Headers and Uppipe, wrapped killerb oil pick up Sti oil pump Gates racing timing Belt 1 step colder plugs AEM wide band tgv deletes SS oil lines perrin 22mm rsb ARP Head studs Perrin 3 inch inlet Perrin intake Grimmspeed BCS Manley SS Valves AutoSpeed Catback Blouch 2.5xtr Other: Whiteline RSB Avo RSB mounts Kart Boy endlinks Kartboy Short Shifter Yellow Fogs Soon to come Grill Mesh Mod http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e2/jeeped07/Legacy%20GT%20Build/IMAG0196.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRoc7822 Posted August 12, 2011 Share Posted August 12, 2011 I hate you... only cause Im envious of you hahahaha. This car is gonna be awesome!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
musty_hustla Posted August 12, 2011 Share Posted August 12, 2011 I'd love to see the grand total when you get it running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSpeed Posted August 12, 2011 Share Posted August 12, 2011 Mating the engine to the tranny is easier than mating the tranny to the engine.. It helps to have an extra person there to raise and lower the engine hoist and tranny jack so they can fit together easier... the tranny will start slightly tilted up, but you'll need to lower it as they come together if I remember right... To prime it I used a breaker bar on the crankshaft sprocket for a few full revolutions. After that I pulled the wire on the fuel pump and turned it over by starter for awhile. I'm sure you'd be fine with an impact wrench, but I've "heard" the hammering of an impact whrench can actually twist the crankshaft enough to break it, albeit probably on smaller motors... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jblackwell1 Posted August 12, 2011 Author Share Posted August 12, 2011 thanks for all the first start up tips keep them coming! im wondering about how to prime the fuel system as well? anything special i need to do there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jblackwell1 Posted August 12, 2011 Author Share Posted August 12, 2011 I made it to the machine shop today as i got in my new manley valves and crank pulley so i had to drop them off. Walked in just as they had finished glass blasting the heads, had 6 bent valves in them btw. I also got my FMIC piping back in which Josh and Import Image got done in wrinkle black for me, ive only taken one out so far but it looks awesome compared to the original chrome/polished finish. Enough blabbering http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e2/jeeped07/Legacy%20GT%20Build/IMAG0198.jpg http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e2/jeeped07/Legacy%20GT%20Build/IMAG0199.jpg http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e2/jeeped07/Legacy%20GT%20Build/IMAG0200.jpg http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e2/jeeped07/Legacy%20GT%20Build/IMAG0201.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDII Posted August 12, 2011 Share Posted August 12, 2011 FYI, if the SB is new you should test fit the head studs to make sure there are no burs in the SB. Need forum help? Private Message legGTLT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jblackwell1 Posted August 12, 2011 Author Share Posted August 12, 2011 im sure the machine shop will take care of that. He was building a 572 race engine when i was talking to him today. id idnt know they made an engine stand so big. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted August 13, 2011 Share Posted August 13, 2011 I've seen a 572 in a warehouse (junk yard motor storage), and confirm it is ENORMOUS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jblackwell1 Posted August 13, 2011 Author Share Posted August 13, 2011 indeed. Getting ready to go run FMIC piping and get the front bumper back on and the fuel pump back in the car. Gettin pretty excited about having a motor to drop back in, hopefully monday or tuesday ill have it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subyduby-doo Posted August 13, 2011 Share Posted August 13, 2011 Wow! I'm jealous of your mechanical aptitude. I have the same car and just went through the same (similar) build. New Subie block, cams, valvesprings & retainers, pistons, rods, shims etc etc. Cost me $8700 for everything. Sucks having to pay someone to do the wrenching. I'm glad your ordeal is almost over. Can't wait till you have it tuned and running. ____Spending funds in mass quantities! I keep telling myself it's just a hobby? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jblackwell1 Posted August 13, 2011 Author Share Posted August 13, 2011 holy hell i love the car in your avi... searching for more pics now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subyduby-doo Posted August 13, 2011 Share Posted August 13, 2011 holy hell i love the car in your avi... searching for more pics now. Thank you. We're like long lost siblings. You're gonna love your car. Especially after all the blood, sweat and tears you put into it in the last month. I'm waiting for Shamar to get back to me for a tune. The place that did my motor build and install blocked all my old maps. Freakin' A__holes! I'm not bringing it back to them, so I figured I'd give Shamar at Infamous a try. Right now still breaking in the new motor. Only have 800 miles on it. Keep us posted. ____Spending funds in mass quantities! I keep telling myself it's just a hobby? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jblackwell1 Posted August 14, 2011 Author Share Posted August 14, 2011 Yea i cant seem to get ahold of shamar right now. Kinda on a time frame so might look else where if i dont hear from him soon. In other news i got a couple things done today, figured out the routing and placement for the FMIC piping and started putting some of it in, also put the fuel pump all back together with the new walbro unit in. im running out of things to do while waiting for the motor.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Balrock Posted August 14, 2011 Share Posted August 14, 2011 Shamar is always busy. He would be well worth waiting for. It is not a fast process once you start, but so worth it. I have said it before, my Shamar e-tune is way better than my old protune. I spool faster on my fmic than I did on my tmic. You will not be disappointed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrHellrais3R Posted August 14, 2011 Share Posted August 14, 2011 he's short on time and has a limited timeline. You could however just try to get a base tune through Shamar and continue with the e-tuning process while at school. Since all you have to do is log a little and upload revisions to your ecu, very doable while away from home. Just make sure you bring your laptop and cable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 14, 2011 Share Posted August 14, 2011 To prime the fuel system. Just power up the fuel pump. It will fill the system in a matter of seconds. If you can make sure the spark plugs are out of the heads when you turn the engine over to prime the oil system. You don't need the compression pushing the pistons and rods into the bearings on a slightly lubed crank. Granted ,most people just start the engine and go from there, but if you have the time and can, pull the plugs. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jblackwell1 Posted August 15, 2011 Author Share Posted August 15, 2011 Ran the piping from the front mount into the engine bay and got the bumper trimmed to fit around the FMIC. Took about 10 tries of cut, fit, cut, fit, but it finally went on. I eventually plan on cutting out the lower center support of the bumper and glassing it so that its a nice big opening for the intercooler. http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e2/jeeped07/Legacy%20GT%20Build/020-3.jpg http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e2/jeeped07/Legacy%20GT%20Build/025-3.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 15, 2011 Share Posted August 15, 2011 Nice job, think hard about cutting out the center support, I don't think fiberglass will work there with the flexible plastic. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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