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19MM Rear Sway Bar Install - Pics


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I'd like to firm up my stock 2010 Legacy 2.5i. I am not a mechanic or modification guy but if there is a solution to the soft feel on my car i'd like to fix it. Would a sway bar on the front and back give me a tighter feel when exiting highway ramps, etc.?

 

If it will and I can do it myself I'd do an installation - do the wheels need to be off the ground to install a sway bar?

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I'd like to firm up my stock 2010 Legacy 2.5i. I am not a mechanic or modification guy but if there is a solution to the soft feel on my car i'd like to fix it. Would a sway bar on the front and back give me a tighter feel when exiting highway ramps, etc.?

 

If it will and I can do it myself I'd do an installation - do the wheels need to be off the ground to install a sway bar?

 

Yes the thicker sway bars will reduce the "sway" when exiting ramps and make a more "grounded" feel. However you'll still have the float from the stock struts/springs. Tires can make a big improvement to your cornering and grounded feel.

 

The rear sway bar is very easy. Pull the car up on ramps or jack it up so you can get under there. Search there are a few walkthroughs. The front is a bit more tricky, but can be done at home.

 

Read: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/mach-v-dans-mega-suspension-guide-5941.html

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I'd like to firm up my stock 2010 Legacy 2.5i. I am not a mechanic or modification guy but if there is a solution to the soft feel on my car i'd like to fix it. Would a sway bar on the front and back give me a tighter feel when exiting highway ramps, etc.?

 

If it will and I can do it myself I'd do an installation - do the wheels need to be off the ground to install a sway bar?

 

 

The rear sway bar alone will improve exactly what you are looking for and as mentioned installation is not intensive. (Just be sure to position the bar as the pic shows in the above posts :rolleyes:)

 

 

We have the kit with bushings available here https://www.subaruonlineparts.com/product_info.php?cPath=31_93_100&products_id=1330

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Ordered my kit from SubaruOnlineParts.com yesterday. Decided to take a shot at doing it myself. If I can change oil on 4 different vehicles and replace water pumps & alternators on a 455 Buick, I think I can handle this. Wish me luck!

 

Not to worry these new toys are a breeze to work on with nuts & bolts that haven't been corroded on for 30 to 40 years. Hardest part is getting off the hard ground when your done :lol: don't ask me how I know.

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Ordered my kit from SubaruOnlineParts.com yesterday. Decided to take a shot at doing it myself. If I can change oil on 4 different vehicles and replace water pumps & alternators on a 455 Buick, I think I can handle this. Wish me luck!

 

Thank you for your order!

 

It is truly a breeze to do, Worst part is having to lay on your back. Helps to have a comfy old blanket laying around or a creeper.

 

-Benny

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:rolleyes:I have ramps, a creeper and garage.:rolleyes:

Just hope to get it done before below freezing winter arrives in North Dakota.

:eek::spin:Driving then with all the southern boys coming up for our huge Bakken Oil Boom will be frightening!!!!!!!!!!!!!:eek::spin::spin::spin::spin:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Bar install completed:spin::spin::spin:

Took me under an hour including tool selection time and setup on ramps. (Weather was perfect)

ONLY NOTE - Done with hand tools, I ended up taking the link ends out of the driveline frames to make wrench and hex wrench use an easier affair ! :cool:;)

:mad:Now I have to wait for an upcoming road trip in Oct. to test:mad:

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Anyone have the torque spec for the sway bar bushing bracket? I was looking on the "shimmy" TSB and the front bracket is noted as 18.4ft.lbs. When I put the new 19mm rear bar on I torqued the crap out of the rear :lol:

 

According to the service manual (2010)-

Always tighten the bushing in the state where

the vehicle is at curb weight and the wheels are

in full contact with the ground.

 

Tightening torque:

Stabilizer link

33 N·m (3.4 kgf-m, 24.3 ft-lb)

Stabilizer clamp

38 N·m (3.9 kgf-m, 28 ft-lb)

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From what I could tell, the bolts holding down the RSB bushings bottom out - at that point, additional torque would not further compress the bushings, regardless of how tight you make the bolts.

 

So I'd think that practically speaking, only making sure the bolts won't back out is important.

 

By the way, getting the nuts off of the endlinks was murder - I couldn't use a ratchet and hold the Allen Key at the same time, so it took me 2 hours to replace those last 2 bolts.

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I did mine a couple of weekends ago and same here, endlinks were a bear. Started on the right side and after realizing how much it was going to suck, sprayed some PB Blaster on both sides. The left side was a lot easier to get off after the blaster soaked in for a while. Just be careful not to spray the rear brake discs...
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I did mine today. The end links were a breeze since my '12 is practically a new car (less than 3 months old). It took me little less than 30 minutes and I spent a bunch of that time removing the sticker and tape on the 19mm sway bar.
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  • 2 months later...
From what I could tell, the bolts holding down the RSB bushings bottom out - at that point, additional torque would not further compress the bushings, regardless of how tight you make the bolts.

 

So I'd think that practically speaking, only making sure the bolts won't back out is important.

 

By the way, getting the nuts off of the endlinks was murder - I couldn't use a ratchet and hold the Allen Key at the same time, so it took me 2 hours to replace those last 2 bolts.

 

Ya I had the same problem. Would a power tool help in removing those nuts ? The tools I have are pretty basic. I did try to loosen the nut with some lubricating oil but no luck. Either I am lacking the torque or the nut is rusted up. The car is 2 years old or maybe i am just mechanically challenged :). Any ideas on how to remove that nut with relative ease. I gave up after trying for more than an hour - did not want to damage that nut.

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I failed at this! Tried to install the new bar today. Getting the 12mm bolts to remove the bracket was easy. Removing the 14mm nut didn't work. The bolt spins with the nut - you have to put an allen key in the end of the bolt to keep it from spinning with the nut. Of course the tread is rusted and my allen wrench is small so it cut into my hands. Anyway - had to give up and schedule a local mechanic to do it. Live and learn!
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I installed the 19mm sway bar last night. I had trouble with the nuts on the end links and ended up taking the end links off attached to the old bar. It wasn't hard to do at all. Ended up using a pair of vice grips on the stud to keep it from spinning while i was taking the nut off

I gave up trying to get these two nuts off - too cumbersome once the nuts start loosening it's get harder and harder to keep loosening because the rusted bolt jams it up. Do you really recommend taking off the tie rods? I guess I'll give it a shot!

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