Bolksey85 Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 On a new bottom end, synthetic will not help. If anything, it will make it worse. Switch to either 15W40 Rotella or a standard dino oil for about 5K miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05pearl Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 My dealership said they used a 'blend' oil, not synthetic. Perhaps synthetic might help? Rao would know about this... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 Rao oil jokes get just as old as SpecB jokes... http://www.clipartof.com/images/thumbnail/2226.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeFromPA Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 Soda - If I read you right, you are combusting oil in significant quantities. Just as a side note: look in your radiator and reservoir and confirm your coolant looks clean. Significant smoke coming out the rear of your car is a clear sign of a major problem, but I'm surprised you haven't had any sluggishness or CELs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 I was very clear to the dealership when I purchased this vehicle that I was going to modify it, No you weren't. As soon as your engine blew, you tried to remove any trace of mods. You whined about Subaru having to pay for your oil soaked exhaust. Hell, you even bitched about Subaru having to pay for oil your engine drank when the bottom dropped out. If you want a fast car, pony up and buy a fast car. You obviously don't get the whole "modding" thing. My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackfang Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 They can't keep the car - it doesn't belong to them. What I am saying is he would have to sign that before he takes the car back. If he doesn't the document would have "refuse to sign" on it. If you modify your vehicle and you cause the problem and the manufacturer ponies up for it and pays to fix it or help out and adds a statement that clears them for you sign and you don't, that doesn't reflect well on your integrity of what you intend to do. [SIZE=1][URL="http://public.fotki.com/blackfang/"]Pics[/URL] [B]08 KawasakiZZR 600- exhaust and other mods 98 Camaro Z/28 HT- some mods......street/strip car 07 Legacy 2.5i- SPT exhaust...daily driver[/B][/SIZE] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackfang Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 No you weren't. As soon as your engine blew, you tried to remove any trace of mods. You whined about Subaru having to pay for your oil soaked exhaust. Hell, you even bitched about Subaru having to pay for oil your engine drank when the bottom dropped out. If you want a fast car, pony up and buy a fast car. You obviously don't get the whole "modding" thing. +1:lol: [SIZE=1][URL="http://public.fotki.com/blackfang/"]Pics[/URL] [B]08 KawasakiZZR 600- exhaust and other mods 98 Camaro Z/28 HT- some mods......street/strip car 07 Legacy 2.5i- SPT exhaust...daily driver[/B][/SIZE] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05pearl Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 Rao oil jokes get just as old as SpecB jokes... http://www.clipartof.com/images/thumbnail/2226.gif Please check one: [ ] I have been on the boards too long [ ] I am a party pooper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soda Popinski Posted September 10, 2009 Author Share Posted September 10, 2009 No you weren't. As soon as your engine blew, you tried to remove any trace of mods. You whined about Subaru having to pay for your oil soaked exhaust. Hell, you even bitched about Subaru having to pay for oil your engine drank when the bottom dropped out. If you want a fast car, pony up and buy a fast car. You obviously don't get the whole "modding" thing. Inaccurate, sir. To clarify: April 2008: Vehicle was purchased from Harte Subaru of Hartford, CT, where I clearly stated my intentions: 1) Fast car 2) Power 3) Performance 4) Mod friendly 5) Durable After 5 months post-purchase I moved to Glenmoore, PA. I service my car at Welsh Subaru of Limerick, in Limerick, PA. I've never heard of a car that by bolting on simple mods can cause such a catastrophic failure; but it happened. I paid about $6,000 out of pocket for the repairs, Subaru assisted with the rest. We split the rental cost, but I paid 2 months of payments while it was in the shop, plus the tax. Although replying to this post kinda derails the thread, I'll elaborate on it. What I found after purchasing this vehicle is that the 08 is more or less a less-than-stelar replica of the 05, 06 year which did great. I wanted a 2008 Subaru Legacy GT that I could turn into a performance street legal vehicle, but instead, it turns out that the 08 LGT is a vehicle that cannot be pushed or modified because it breaks, and has sub-standard internals. I hope this clarifies your misconceptions about where I purchased the vehicle and the intentions on which I transacted my business; I bought the 08 LGT on the premise that it can be a performance tuned beast and be mod-friendly in the way of after market parts; It isn't. Now, that said... I'll get back to the current thread. Today I let the car warm up and idle for 10 minutes while I let the dog out, and when I was ready to leave for work, out of the right exhaust pipe was a very light smoke. Almost like exhaust but more persistent. It drifted off quite a ways before it dissipated. I will check tonight after I get home, I'll let the car idle in the garage for 5 minutes and I'll also check the coolant tank. One of the things I noticed after the motor failure last time was some coolant dripping from the exhaust tips. I wasn't aware that coolant ran close enough to combust in the engine and pass out the exhaust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackfang Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 You are failing at realizing the term "you pay to play" and what can come with that. Instead of complaining, how about being proactive this time and take the car in to be seen? [SIZE=1][URL="http://public.fotki.com/blackfang/"]Pics[/URL] [B]08 KawasakiZZR 600- exhaust and other mods 98 Camaro Z/28 HT- some mods......street/strip car 07 Legacy 2.5i- SPT exhaust...daily driver[/B][/SIZE] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soda Popinski Posted September 10, 2009 Author Share Posted September 10, 2009 I paid. $4000 for the mods, and over $6000 for the repairs. I bought quality COBB stuff, not ebay crap. The car is due for an oil change next week. I might take it in tonight if I get the chance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackfang Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 I paid. $4000 for the mods, and over $6000 for the repairs. I bought quality COBB stuff, not ebay crap. Good. Then all of this stuff here I've never heard of a car that by bolting on simple mods can cause such a catastrophic failure; but it happened. I paid about $6,000 out of pocket for the repairs, Subaru assisted with the rest. We split the rental cost, but I paid 2 months of payments while it was in the shop, plus the tax. Although replying to this post kinda derails the thread, I'll elaborate on it. What I found after purchasing this vehicle is that the 08 is more or less a less-than-stelar replica of the 05, 06 year which did great. I wanted a 2008 Subaru Legacy GT that I could turn into a performance street legal vehicle, but instead, it turns out that the 08 LGT is a vehicle that cannot be pushed or modified because it breaks, and has sub-standard internals. I hope this clarifies your misconceptions about where I purchased the vehicle and the intentions on which I transacted my business; I bought the 08 LGT on the premise that it can be a performance tuned beast and be mod-friendly in the way of after market parts; It isn't. is a moot point then. [SIZE=1][URL="http://public.fotki.com/blackfang/"]Pics[/URL] [B]08 KawasakiZZR 600- exhaust and other mods 98 Camaro Z/28 HT- some mods......street/strip car 07 Legacy 2.5i- SPT exhaust...daily driver[/B][/SIZE] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soda Popinski Posted September 10, 2009 Author Share Posted September 10, 2009 yet you have mods on your cars listed in your signature. I assume all of those motors exploded? Even after you got them tuned? I'm worried that even after I took everyone's advise on the mods and tune to get, why my car is the only one here that seems to be exploding. Perhaps my frustration is clouding what everyone else seems to think is so simple to see; 30,000 is not a small amount of money to invest in a car. For me, it was a sizable chunk. Throw in the $10,000 in mods/repairs and my LGT has cost me $40,000, and thus, I can only draw one of two conclusions: 1) you have to spend more than $10,000 in mods / repairs to be able to drive the Legacy GT like a performance car or 2) the Legacy GT is not a performance car and cannot be modified by aftermarket performance parts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackfang Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 Yes, I do have mods, mainly suspension mods and a few engine mods and no they have not caused my motor to blow. The LS1 motor is a very stout engine. I have seen others who were not as fortunate, but they also have more mods than i. However, I also know the risks associated with that and accept them even if I pop a motor or break a transmission or a rear. You won;t see me coming on here crying how I broke something while dragracing or make excuses about my mods should not have caused this or that. I man up and fix the crap. If you can't afford to pay, then do not play, do not modify the car. You made your choice and accept it and be responsible for what happens. I also have mods on my sportbike. The bike went in last month for warranty repairs because it broke down and would not start. After I told them what happened, the next thing I told them were the mods i had done that I did not take off nor hide. It was repaired under warranty. [SIZE=1][URL="http://public.fotki.com/blackfang/"]Pics[/URL] [B]08 KawasakiZZR 600- exhaust and other mods 98 Camaro Z/28 HT- some mods......street/strip car 07 Legacy 2.5i- SPT exhaust...daily driver[/B][/SIZE] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captainhook Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 Soda, I understand your frustration, trust me. I have gone through/am going through the same ordeal as you. The smoke after idling IS NOT an isolated incident, AND most likely not due to any modifications you've made to the car. Bone stock minus the dealer installed SPT intake+cat-back my car began smoking slightly at idle after only 5 months. I took it to the dealer and complained about it and the party line was, "burning up to 1 quart of oil every 1000 miles is considered normal. You have nothing to worry about." With that said I took their word for it and took the car to a very reputable tuner for a mild tune. After one baseline pull on the stock ecu settings and my SPT parts, the tuner pointed out the smoke and refused to tune the car. He told me I may have a blown turbo and that it must be replaced, otherwise it could blow up and total the motor. So I went and got it replaced under warranty but the car still smoked. I returned to the tuner and he was surprised it was still smoking and totally checked the car out including a compression test . . . 150 across the board. He was totally perplexed and still wasn't comfortable tuning it not knowing what its deal was. I returned to the dealer and this is my never ending engine saga: .1st time: I'm turned away stating that 1 quart/1000 miles is normal. (yeah, maybe for a rotary)2nd time: turbo replaced3rd time: they decide to put the car on an oil consumption test for 3000 miles4th time: I check and top off the oil almost every week until they finally determine it failed the consumption test and they decide to open it up. They replace the pistons and rings. 5th time: after a couple hundred miles of no-boost-at-all break in, I notice the smoke again. I return to the dealership, they reopen the motor and replace a leaking exhaust valve.6th time: I notice shortly thereafter the car is still smoking and return again. This time they find flaws in the passenger side head after disassembly and inspection. They replace the head with a brand new one and send me on my way assuring they found the problem this time. I drive the car for 5 miles and then let it sit and idle in my driveway for 15 mins. (the ultimate test) And when I came out it wasn't puffing, I was almost about to jump for joy when I jabbed the gas a couple times to 3-4K rpm and it blew clouds of smoke out both pipes. Without delay I get back in my car and I'm back at the dealership less than an hour after leaving. I stated it was still smoking and not fixed. They assured me it was just oil burning off from lubing up the new head. Not buying that story, I drive home pretty pissed. I continued to baby the car around for another 200 miles without boosting it at all in an attempt to give the new head a gentle breakin. Over those miles I start noticing on my STi gauge set that the oil temp is reading slightly higher than normal. Since I bought the car it was always 95 degrees celsius when driving normally and 98-100 if driving hard. I was babying it around and seeing 100. 7th time: I return to the dealership and state the oil temp is slightly high and I'm still seeing smoke from the exhaust. I make it 1000% clear I'm leaving for a long trip the very next morning and they need to guarantee it's fine and will make it or give me a loaner. They look it over, check the oil, and say, "it's fine, no worries." Well, the very next morning I make it 90 miles before it breaks down.8th time: Failure was determined to be #4 spun rod bearing, but they had no explanation for how or why that occurred. A new short block was installed. 9th time: Since the install of the new short block I'm seeing that my oil pressure is significantly higher than with the old short block. (not sure if it's too high now or was too low then) I stopped by the dealership and they were at a loss for why the oil pressure would change since it's the same oil pump, but told me, "higher pressure is better, you have no worries." The higher pressure I'm guesing could be related to some sort of blockage, but I'm no mechanic. I now have 90 miles on the new short block and will continue my no-boost, sub 3K rpm breakin for another 910 miles with an oil change at 100, 500, and 1000 miles so I can inspect the oil. Moral of the story . . . some of the 2.5L's were junk from the factory and now the consumers are paying the price. I've posted this factual knowledge and experience for the public knowledge, not to argue with people or entertain BS questions/comments. Hopefully someone finds my info helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soda Popinski Posted September 10, 2009 Author Share Posted September 10, 2009 There's a reason I paid $10,000 more for the LGT over the 2.5i. I wanted the power, not a powder-puff. Your story is almost identical to mine. In my case I had no choice but to play dumb to the dealership because they called the rep in and he immediately tried pointing the finger at me from everything to "YOU CANT CHECK THE OIL UNLESS THE CAR HAS BEEN OFF FOR 4 HOURS, to I DIDNT INSTALL A CATOLYTIC CONVERTER, to THE CAR HAS A LOWERED SUSPENSION AND VOIDS WARRANTEES ON THE ENGINE). His story changed and I played dumb. I did NOT, however, use the Cobb AP tune. I'm at the point that I am worried to take the car back to the dealer because 1) I like them and 2) I don't want them to get in trouble. I feel bad about it. But if my car is blowing oil by the pistons and ringlands then I want it fixed so I can sell the car. Contrary to popular belief around here, I take VERY good care of my car. Every other detail is meticulously looked over by me. The only thing I don't understand well is the H4 Motor. Oil gets changed religeously, once a month or 3000 miles, tranny fluid every 10,000... tires balanced every 5,000. In fact, I don't even think I would have complained in the first place had the tech not told me the car was safe to drive without even checking the dip stick when I complained about burning oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 captainhook - Lemon Law, look it up My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nightspeed98 Posted October 8, 2009 Share Posted October 8, 2009 my 09 LGT's motor died at 4700 miles, subaru replaced my motor no questions asked, no charge. i was out of a car for 8 days, but i got a brand new motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captainhook Posted October 8, 2009 Share Posted October 8, 2009 my 09 LGT's motor died at 4700 miles, subaru replaced my motor no questions asked, no charge. i was out of a car for 8 days, but i got a brand new motor. Short block or long block? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeFromPA Posted October 8, 2009 Share Posted October 8, 2009 CaptainHook - Why are you babying your motor? Drive it as you intend to drive it, and make sure your rings seat properly. The only thing that really needs to break-in in the motor are the rings/pistons; aside from that break-in is primarily for clutch and brakes to seat properly. Just my .02....I'd want to start boosting soon on the new motor, and making sure everything is working properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captainhook Posted October 8, 2009 Share Posted October 8, 2009 CaptainHook - Why are you babying your motor? Drive it as you intend to drive it, and make sure your rings seat properly. The only thing that really needs to break-in in the motor are the rings/pistons; aside from that break-in is primarily for clutch and brakes to seat properly. Just my .02....I'd want to start boosting soon on the new motor, and making sure everything is working properly. I tried that method the first time, it didn't pan out so well. I also spoke to a few engine builders that recommended this kind of break-in, so I figured why not give it a shot. I guess we'll see if it does any good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schwinn Posted October 8, 2009 Share Posted October 8, 2009 http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm Personally, I have never babied any vehicle I have had... and never had a problem. My friends recount the same story... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captainhook Posted October 8, 2009 Share Posted October 8, 2009 http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm Personally, I have never babied any vehicle I have had... and never had a problem. My friends recount the same story... LOL, that's hilarious. That's one of the exact articles I read before picking up my new car. Like I said, it didn't pan out too well. Not to mention it's contradictory to what a number of engine builders have told me over the last month. Unfortunately breaking in new engines isn't something that's a science, everyone has their own opinion. So this time I'm trying something different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schwinn Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 Understood... just giving my (and my friends) experiences on the matter for you, that's all. I'll admit, I don't know what caused your motor failure... any root cause determined? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbrjason Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm Personally, I have never babied any vehicle I have had... and never had a problem. My friends recount the same story... I read this before picking mine up also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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