NastyLGT Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 110××× on my original 05 legacy battery. This winter killed any life it had left in it. Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vmax540 Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 After reading this I just replaced the original battery in my 2004 Legacy. http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-head-gasket-problems-explained/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stealitall Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 about 130k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonnyJagaru Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 Thanks for that Vmax540. No mention of newer Subies in that article though and we do hear of headgasket failures post year 2003. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vmax540 Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Thanks for that Vmax540. No mention of newer Subies in that article though and we do hear of headgasket failures post year 2003. Thank you, Bought my first new Subaru in the fall of 1981 and all I can say is although I love them the head gaskets needing replaced is not going away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LatentWagen Posted September 1, 2014 Share Posted September 1, 2014 Still on my '08's OEM battery, 158k miles strong. I'll probably replace it soon. LW's spec. B / YT / IG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HieroGLFX Posted June 18, 2015 Share Posted June 18, 2015 My replacement battery died already, Super Start from Oreilly. I think it's just over 3 years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted June 18, 2015 Share Posted June 18, 2015 Got my 05 gently used in 07 and the battery was already gone aproaching the winter time. Swapped it out with a red top from my previous car that got the battery from the car it replaced. That red top lasted from 02 til about winter time 09. One day I went to remote start and the batt was to low to start. I got stuck in the remote start restart loop for a bit until I popped the hood. 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrozenMarzBar_3 Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 My 2008 Spec B has 125,000km on it. I'm pretty sure it's the original battery for the car. There is no branding on it, and it has been cranking a little slowly on cols starts ever since i bought the car 2 years ago. Battery suddenly shit the bed. It would barely start the car, even after it had been running recently. Caved and bought a new one yesterday :/ EDIT: My legacy is a 2008, not a 2006 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 Still rocking my the original 2005 battery here. It's starting to corrode, but I just keep washing it. Batteries are one of those things I'll milk till the last possible second, thanks to my inner tree-hugging hippie self. MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted September 14, 2016 Share Posted September 14, 2016 My replacement in 09 needs to be replaced too. Won't hold a good charge anymore. 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KartRacerBoy Posted September 14, 2016 Share Posted September 14, 2016 I suspect my 2005 LGTs alternator isn't working anymore. I bought a new battery 3-4 months when the original battery finally refused to take a charge. Now on 3 occasions I have to charge my new battery in the last week. Starts right up and runs fine after an hour or so of charging, and I can drive it around town but I try not to go to far. The next morning, however, the car is dead. Not even the automatic locks will work. So I suspect alternator. Opinions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted September 14, 2016 Share Posted September 14, 2016 have you checked the voltage across the battery terminals while the car is running? should be >~13.9V, ideally 14.4V with all accessories off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KartRacerBoy Posted September 14, 2016 Share Posted September 14, 2016 No, I haven't. Don't have the tool, or think I don't. Know little about electrics. My charger has a gauge on it that while the car is running. See if that will tell me. If it does not have voltage that high, does that mean it's the battery or still likely the alternator, or something else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted September 14, 2016 Share Posted September 14, 2016 If you measure the voltage across the battery terminals with the car off, it will give you the voltage across the battery. A full battery should have a voltage ~12.3V or a bit more. When the car is on, the voltage across the battery terminals should be higher (as I previously mentioned) because the alternator is charging the battery. If the alternator is dead, then the voltage measured with the car on will only show the battery voltage (12.3V or so). And that voltage will drop every minute because the battery is slowly depleting. I believe Autozone and the like provide free alternator testing. You can also buy a cheap voltmeter at Harbor Freight to measure the voltage. Set it to 'DC' and you should be good to go. This picture may help. http://www.cdn.sciencebuddies.org/Dirs/14/11/yellow-multimeter_img.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KartRacerBoy Posted September 14, 2016 Share Posted September 14, 2016 Don't have one of those. Charger is just a meter for the level of charge complete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted September 14, 2016 Share Posted September 14, 2016 They're super cheap at HF or even walmart. Like 10 bucks or so for a simple one. Worth having one in the toolbox . On that topic, I actually helped a friend a couple of days ago with his Ford Escape identifying a failing alternator. It was whining, and was providing a weak charge. Voltage across the battery terminals (with the engine on) was like 13.4V. Even with having the engine rev, the voltage did not increase much. Shop confirmed the alternator was dying. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 14, 2016 Share Posted September 14, 2016 HF even gives them away. I have 4 meters from them around the house and sheds. Why walk down the cellar stairs to get one when I can have one on the shelve at the top of the cellar stairs. When I down stairs and need a volt meter why walk up the stairs or have to go to the shed to get one or the drawer in the hutch in the dinning room. As I have said before, Fall is the time you want to make sure your old car battery is good or if it's 6y/o or older, replace it. It's better then having to do it in a parking lot is January on a nice cold day. Walmart has a great rated battery for $100. Maxxeverstart. I have 3 of them. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KartRacerBoy Posted September 14, 2016 Share Posted September 14, 2016 Fark, I must of accidentally hit the switch from automatic to manual when charging. The meter just wildly swings from right to left now and the car doesn't have enough juice to idle, but it will run if I'm moving once I got it started. Does that sound like the alternator is charging but the battery won't hold it? If it is the battery, it's from Sears so I bet it's warrantied. Which would be nice. Or maybe I'm gonna have to buy both a battery and alternator and find a loose ground wire. Sign. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted September 14, 2016 Share Posted September 14, 2016 Go get one of these cheap multimeters, measure, and report . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KartRacerBoy Posted September 14, 2016 Share Posted September 14, 2016 But car no go nowhere now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dre617 Posted September 15, 2016 Share Posted September 15, 2016 Ask someone for a ride lol last thing you want to do is diagnose a bad alt when that is not the case. Electrical components are usually non-refundable, like xt2005bonbon said get the meter from harbor freight or even amazon Craftman Digital Multimeter $10 w/ Prime. If you tried to charge the battery and it doesnt hold a charge, battery might not work properly anymore. I forget the exact number but I think once a battery hits below 8 volts or so damage to the battery starts. Once you get the battery replaced, check the voltage across the terminals at Key Off Engine Off and make sure battery voltage doesnt change drastically. You might see some trickling of voltage drop but shouldn't drop below 12 volts. When you turn on the car voltage should be ~14v less than 14 could indicate alternator not charging correctly, or could be a bad wire from the alt to the battery. Here is a good video explaining Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 15, 2016 Share Posted September 15, 2016 But car no go nowhere now. Haven't you learned to have another car to drive when you fixing this one yet... May be look for an old pick up truck. Sorry I know its not much help... 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KartRacerBoy Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 Yesteday after charging the battery the car barely started and I went about 500 ft before turning around becz I had to rev like shit to keep it running. It wouldn't idle. Then as soon as I stopped to park, it died before I could turn it off. This morning it mysteriously started right up and ran like everything was fine, so I bought a multimeter and just tested the battery. 11.3 volts off, but 14.6 volts running. Started not as normal strong but ran fine. Then I tested it with all the accessories on and it still read 14.2, so the alternator is charging. And when I turned off the car, it read 12.6 volts, up from the original 11.3 Short or ground wire as someone else mentioned?. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted September 16, 2016 I Donated Share Posted September 16, 2016 14.6 is a bit high. It should be more like 13.6. It's possible it's the voltage regulator in the alternator. Can you get someone to rev it and check the voltage while they do that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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