DonnyJagaru
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Everything posted by DonnyJagaru
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As above, the CEL comes on to remind me the cat's operating temperature isn't reaching a hot enough level. It goes off when driving around town but after 15 minutes on the highway is back. This has been going on for a year now. After some research online I have some questions for those whom have been down this road: Q1: If the temp coming out of the cat is the same, or only slightly higher than going in, that confirms it's whipped, right? Q2: Is there any merit in pouring a gallon of lacquer thinner in the gas tank? Q3: Is there any harm trying? Q4: Should I stick with OEM replacement catalyst or is aftermarket okay? To say a CEL light on drives me crazy is an understatement. I will go insane if I replace everything and it's still on so trying to avoid this scenario. Car is otherwise working fine and I must have the only 2008 crowding 200,000 miles which has never had a leaking head gasket. TIA
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Programming Ignition Immobilizer on New aftermarket key fob
DonnyJagaru replied to DonnyJagaru's topic in Interior/Audio
I should've clarified. What I have is one working key. I've ordered two more. I think what I'll do is remove the immobilizer chip and stick it on the induction coil/antenna in the lock tumbler. This will negate the immobilizer functionality of course, but given the cars age likely won't be an issue. I *thought* programming the buttons was straightforward but it sounds like you're saying the dealer needs to be involved in this too? -
I would check the resistors with an ohmmeter. The values are written on them in the usual electronic code with the last digit being the multiplier. Hence 502 is 5000 Ω, 553 would be 55000 Ω and 100 is 10Ω etc. Sometimes they crack if they've been stressed via heat or whatnot. If you have a dab hand you can solder a conventional resistor in easily enough.
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Overheard at a truck stop. "I like a broad with a belly as flat as a plate of piss".
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This looks like classic cold solder joints. Guessing they used silver solder (which is the norm now) but the soldering machine's hot air was only hot enough for the old-style 60/40 type. Nonetheless, add some dabs of lead/tin solder and you should be rockin'. If interested, the 000 resistors are 0Ω (jumpers), the 331 are 330Ω and 511 is 510Ω. These limit the amount of current the LEDs can use so they won't burn out.
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Maybe the Republican party should re-brand itself the Commerce Party of America? Managing the economy is a very important role for the government, but it's not the only one. Republicans seem to forget this more often.
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Guns don't kill people. People with guns kill people.
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And Shepherds we shall be For thee, my Lord, for thee. Power hath descended forth from Thy hand Our feet may swiftly carry out Thy commands. So we shall flow a river forth to Thee And teeming with souls shall it ever be. In Nomeni Patri Et Fili Spiritus Sancti
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I've been working with electronics for about 30 years and LEDs always fail completely. It should take any longer to solder. I'm wondering if you now have a cold solder joint? Also, measure the resistance across the 511 resistor. It should be 500 Ω. Sometimes chip resistors will crack and become intermittent. Did you clean all the contacts too?
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JDM Macintosh Language Change
DonnyJagaru replied to ASodha's topic in Fourth Generation Legacy (2005 - 2009)
I fined it hard to believe English isn't an option. I wouldn't go ripping it out just yet. What you need is a McIntosh Service Manual for that thing. -
Would it be cheaper to weld in a new quarter panel and paint it up?
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Wow. That's a fine installation, but I gotta say I was able to install my dashcam and squeeze the cable under the trim pieces. It runs across the top to the passenger side, along the top of the door sill, down the door jamb, under the passenger seat and into the 12Vdc outlet in the centre console. I even put a 2way splitter in the console and power my GPS from it thus leaving the other 12Vdc for other accessories.
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I just bled my whole system. I had my son apply gentle brake pressure while I tightened each nipple. I think this is important as air can get sucked back into the cylinder during upstrokes of the brake pedal. I noted some guys smeared grease around the threads to stop this happening and I guess if you are doing it solo that would be a good idea. I followed the bleeding pattern in the Subaru shop manual (FR-RL-FL-RR) and son of a gun it worked!
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If your gas is fouling your injectors go after the oil company for the cost of repairs. I used to work at one of them and we'd issue checks all the time for this kind of thing. We paid for a few engine rebuilds too. I've used gas additives to boost octane when I got a bad tank, but I don't use additives as part of regular maintenance. There's plenty of detergents in gasolines already.
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legacy's beware front wiper motor
DonnyJagaru replied to frank_ster's topic in Fourth Generation Legacy (2005 - 2009)
I haven't had any woes with the wiper motor on Subaru, but I have on others. The last one I fixed would just slow down and blow the fuse. It really only needed the bearings greased in the electric motor itself. The motors aren't hard to dismantle although it was a tug of war to get the rotor out of the bearings at each end of the housing. I guess the grease just disappears over time. Anyway, re-packed with regular EP grease and reassembled. Good as new. Cost = nil. -
legacy's beware front wiper motor
DonnyJagaru replied to frank_ster's topic in Fourth Generation Legacy (2005 - 2009)
I'm gonna look into this 'cuz I feel the wipers are lacking a bit of enthusiasm. -
legacy's beware front wiper motor
DonnyJagaru replied to frank_ster's topic in Fourth Generation Legacy (2005 - 2009)
If that's true, your Dad has two or more Buicks. -
Back pain from seats
DonnyJagaru replied to glickster89's topic in Fourth Generation Legacy (2005 - 2009)
Wow, my cloth Legacy seats are excellent. I guess it depends on what shape you are. Conversely, my other car has fully adjustable electric seats that provide and infinite number of different seating positions - all of which are uncomfortable. -
Windshield washer relay location?
DonnyJagaru replied to Shawn06SpecB's topic in Warranty Issues & Problems
If there is voltage at the pump when its unplugged, but the pump won't turn when plugged in, that tells me there is high resistance in the circuit. This could be a loose connection, defective switch or wires corroded internally. Wild guess is you used water in the reservoir in summer and its corroded the wires leading to the pump. Cut away the bad wire(s) and replace. Much as I like to think I'm enviro-consious, I don't run straight water in my WW in summer. I usually dilute 50:50 to avoid the corrosion problems.