KartRacerBoy Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 Yeah, I can, but the video linked to above in post 422 said it was in acceptable range 14.2 to 14.7 with 14.1 or so good for a car idling but with accessories on. But if it is what you say, why would the car act as I've said, sometimes with a weak start with a full charge and the very next start up a few minutes later it starts and runs as normal? What do you think about bad ground or battery to alternator theory? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted September 16, 2016 I Donated Share Posted September 16, 2016 I mean, it's possible, but I don't think you would get such wide fluctuations, and I had multiple grounds disconnected after one of my engine pulls on my 05 and never had that problem. A failing VRM might be fine sometimes and not others, and would also explain the stumbling/stalling at idle (the voltage could be too low at low RPM to drive the coils, but would rise with RPM). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 Yesteday after charging the battery the car barely started and I went about 500 ft before turning around becz I had to rev like shit to keep it running. It wouldn't idle. Then as soon as I stopped to park, it died before I could turn it off. This morning it mysteriously started right up and ran like everything was fine, so I bought a multimeter and just tested the battery. 11.3 volts off, but 14.6 volts running. Started not as normal strong but ran fine. Then I tested it with all the accessories on and it still read 14.2, so the alternator is charging. And when I turned off the car, it read 12.6 volts, up from the original 11.3 Short or ground wire as someone else mentioned?. Seems like the ECU lost memory and had to re-learn. Happens when battery has been disconnected. Electrical Gremlins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KartRacerBoy Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 Should've realized that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KartRacerBoy Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 And tried to drive to the dealer but once again the battery is dead after getting a full charge yesterday. I can't find anything that might be draining the battery. Someone suggested the door open switch which is broken on mine but it has been for well over a year and never had a problem until now (with previous battery or this new one). Someone else suggested a problem with the wagon hatch wiring to the lighting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dre617 Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 14v is fine with a load and 13v is with no load (accessories on). Check the battery a few times, I would be concern with the original 11.3v measurement. The battery should hold the 12v charge overnight I think. I can also double check my car and verify those numbers, only reason the car would be at 11.3v would be if you had a load (key in ACC/On position, radio on, fans and etc..)with the engine off which would drain the battery but not charge it back up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LatentWagen Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 You might be able to troubleshoot/trace by turning everything off, and hooking up the multimeter. Should still be drawing current. Pull/replace fuses one at a time to see which fuse the draw is on... LW's spec. B / YT / IG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dre617 Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 you want to make sure also that its not just a faulty battery. Charge it up, turn it off, verify its 12v take the terminals off, negative first then positive terminal (good way to remember which comes out first is positive person gets to the party first (positive cable gets installed first) and leave last (positive cable gets removed last)), and check the batter voltage after a couple of hours and see if the voltage has changed. If not then like Laten says connect everything back up and play the fuse game. It is tedious and annoying, most fuses you can check to see if they draw power without pulling them out so it might save time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 Install a main switch breaker and deal with the re-learning every morning. Or at least disconnect the battery when you park and re-connect it when you shall drive to see if that at least keeps it alive. But starting problems can actually also be a bad electrical connector - oxides somewhere causing a connector to get connection sometimes and sometimes not. Anyway - things like this requires patience to find. Pulling fuse after fuse until you find the culprit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KartRacerBoy Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 Just brought it in for service. Thought this morning after I charged it yesterday that I should have disconnected battery to see if there was a drain. Doh! I charged the car to 75% and drove to the dealership but it was iffy. I had to rev it at every stop to keep it from stalling and as soon as I pulled into the stealership it died b4 I could turn it off. 15 minute drive so it was just an ecu learning problem. We'll see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssuubbii Posted December 4, 2016 Share Posted December 4, 2016 Still running OEM battery on my '09 Spec b - almost at 8 years! Battery is just beging to loose it's charge. Looking for a replacement, probably go back to OEM if available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegUp Posted December 6, 2016 Share Posted December 6, 2016 06 spec B, origional battery! Still holds charge, might replace soon preemptively. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silinc3r Posted December 6, 2016 Share Posted December 6, 2016 got one from 2007 and still rocking!! Silinc3r's 05 SWP GT/Spec B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laz Posted December 7, 2016 Share Posted December 7, 2016 '15 Legacy Limited. 2 years. --- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonnyJagaru Posted December 7, 2016 Share Posted December 7, 2016 My 2008 OEM conked out a long time ago now. The 2003 in my Ford is still going strong. FWIW, the Ford is a Johnson Controls made battery, same as Interstate brand and I've had good luck with those over the years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LongHiway Posted December 9, 2016 Share Posted December 9, 2016 funny how everyone with an original battery posting now (2016), lives in a warm climate... Global warming upside FTW. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted December 10, 2016 Share Posted December 10, 2016 Finally had to jump start my OEM battery yesterday, a cold 18° day. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted December 10, 2016 Share Posted December 10, 2016 Finally had to jump start my OEM battery yesterday, a cold 18° day. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LongHiway Posted December 12, 2016 Share Posted December 12, 2016 strange sorcery you pocess Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted December 12, 2016 Share Posted December 12, 2016 strange sorcery you pocess That fact that it's the OEM battery? I know, it's crazy. I chalk it up to the fact that it lives in a garage every night where temps never dip below ~40°, and the alternator has never died causing stress on the battery. I will say though, for the last year it's cranked rather slow, and leaving the headlights on for more than 5 minutes would render it useless. It finally bit the bullet though. I had to jump it four more times since my last post, so out with the old and in with a 620CCA Optima. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonnyJagaru Posted December 13, 2016 Share Posted December 13, 2016 If you want a battery with the greatest capacity, pay attention to the "minutes of reserve" specification not the CCA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted December 13, 2016 Share Posted December 13, 2016 If you want a battery with the greatest capacity, pay attention to the "minutes of reserve" specification not the CCA. 98 minutes @25 amps I had originally planned to get the Napa Legend AGM battery as I had higher cold CCA and marginally longer reserve for $32 less, but they were completely out of stock. This was one of those things I needed immediately, so I bit the bullet on the Yellowtop. After sale/rebates/core it came out to $182. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silinc3r Posted December 20, 2016 Share Posted December 20, 2016 Andddd, it's finally dead. Even after driving all the way from Mobile Al, to ATL it won't hold a charge. Now to figure out which one I want to go with. Silinc3r's 05 SWP GT/Spec B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted December 20, 2016 Share Posted December 20, 2016 Andddd, it's finally dead. Even after driving all the way from Mobile Al, to ATL it won't hold a charge. Now to figure out which one I want to go with. Napa Legend AGM, best bang for the buck from what I've seen. Really, the whole Legend series is some sweet bang for the buck. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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