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6MT Master Swap Thread


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Thanks. Axles? Prop shaft?

 

As I recall the 06 Spec B came with an R-160 correct? If so, yes you can re-use your Spec B shafts and prop.

 

If it came with an R-180 you will need axles and a prop shaft from any LGT that used the R-160 which is all of them except 07+ Spec Bs.

 

I have both rear axles and a prop shaft for sale but it would probably be cheaper to get one at a local salvage yard.

Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine.

"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"

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The 06 Spec B R160 is 4.111. He needs R160 with 3.90. Hence the WRX R160 Diff recommendation. Alternatively, he could get an STI or an 07+ Spec B R180 and 07+ Spec B axles to fit his 06 Spec B. Edited by SBT
- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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He would be a lot better off with an R-180, there is no comparison in the strength and durability between the two. In fact it was the major reason why I upgraded to a six speed!

Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine.

"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"

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Ah, good input, thanks!

 

I'm honestly more interested in doing this swap correctly, albeit inexpensively. The car has a JDM twinscroll setup (bought from Underdog), so it is essentially a stock Subaru turbo and very smooth yet not crazy powerful. I think the R160 is plenty strong for my use of the car, if I can stick with that. Plenty of them to find, too.

 

Front axles?

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Ah, good input, thanks!

Front axles?

 

Standard LGT.

Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine.

"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"

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  • 1 month later...

Just got my swapped 05 LGT back on the road and I'm having some issues. I used a v7 6sp which uses front axles with female inboard ends (i.e. it has male axle stubs coming out of the front diff). I took the stock 05 LGT front axles which are male (i.e. the stock 5sp trans front diff is female) and removed the inboard CV joints and swapped on 02 WRX inboard CV joints which are female so they would join up to my v7 6sp's male front diff stubs. It all went together nicely but I'm getting some noises from the car while driving. I'm not 100% sure it's from the axles but, when I turn hard right or hard left, I get a binding sound and feeling coming from the wheel on the outside of the turn i.e. if I'm turning left, the right front makes the noise/feeling.

 

I'm wondering if the axles shafts may be too long and now the axle shafts are bottoming out into the CV cups causing the binding when the suspension compresses and the axles compress. Knowing the correct compressed axle length of a Spec B 6sp front axle would really help. Does anyone know this measurement?

 

Also, are the stock front axles for a 05 LGT 5sp and 05 LGT auto the same?

Edited by Soarer
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How are you controlling the center diff?

 

 

Sent from some electronic device.

Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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  • 4 weeks later...

I'm having Ultimate Collision Center in Peekskill, NY swap out the shifter linkage for a Spec B unit to center the shift knob. They just called me and told me that the Spec B linkage will cause metal on metal contact when shifting into reverse.

 

Has anyone else encountered this?

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I'm having Ultimate Collision Center in Peekskill, NY swap out the shifter linkage for a Spec B unit to center the shift knob. They just called me and told me that the Spec B linkage will cause metal on metal contact when shifting into reverse.

 

Has anyone else encountered this?

 

Nope. I have the Spec B shifter parts and it goes in reverse fine.

Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine.

"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"

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Forester gear ratios are set up with taller tires tires in mind, so you'll want ot take that into account when mating everything up. Shorter tires will run you out of gear faster than taller tires
- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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Thinking to use Forester STi sg9 transmission and rear differential. Should be equivalent to Impreza's stuff apart from gear ratios.

 

Anyone can see any problem regarding this?

 

I have the JDM Forester STI 6 speed in my race car specifically because it has very long gears for high speed. They are the same gear ratios as the USDM Legacy Spec B, but has the added benefit of still having it's internal oil pump, which is missing on USDM Spec B trannys. I know it makes no sense, why would anyone want to go 160 mph in a Forester, but that's what they did.

 

See: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/transmission-gear-ratios-and-final-drives-229267.html

Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine.

"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"

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I am joining the 6sp club! I have a 05 LGT wagon. 5sp whining bad! new long block built for 500hp. make 312rwhp now. I have a chance at a STI RA type C TY856WB3JA. with oil cooler. was told they are tougher than the standard JDM sti trans, or he has a o5 JDM sti trans. Both are DCCD and locking front diffs. what do i go with. is there and advantage? both have clutch flywheel starter and both trans x members still on them

So after reading 40 or so pages.

I need a STI 6sd

R180 rear

spec b rear axles

4eat drive shaft

stock front lgt axles

DCCD pro

spec B shift rod and stay

Any thing else im missing?

Edited by marto
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Just picked up my 6 speed mt. It had 6,000 k on it. Its a 2004 sti jdm. has DCCD and a suretrac diff. Came with a sti Ra type C clutch and flywheel. the R180 rear is a 3.90 US sti with new gears and rebuilt locker. now i need to collect all the small parts! Edited by marto
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  • 2 weeks later...
It looks like I'm going to be going down the 6mt swap journey here pretty shortly. I'm wondering what is the clutch of choice for this swap? I'm currently at 280 ft lbs but after this swap I'm probably going to upgrade injectors and retune, probably see around 320 ft lbs. Would an oem clutch be a good choice? My car is a dd, I have no intensions of tracking it. I'm looking for drivability and easy clutch engagement.
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Parts for swap ordered. JDM STI Forester transmission and R180 diff. With axles/CV-jointes I'll try 5*110-STI/Hyundai -recipe.

 

I've done a ton of search and research but haven't concluded 100%-sure if 5MT shifter bezel and boot cover are possible to use with 6MT?

Anyway I want to renew my shifter boot so should I go 6MT or 5MT model?

 

Thanks!

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Parts for swap ordered. JDM STI Forester transmission and R180 diff. With axles/CV-jointes I'll try 5*110-STI/Hyundai -recipe.

 

I've done a ton of search and research but haven't concluded 100%-sure if 5MT shifter bezel and boot cover are possible to use with 6MT?

Anyway I want to renew my shifter boot so should I go 6MT or 5MT model?

 

Thanks!

 

Is there a thread or post regarding the 5*110-STI/Hyundai -recipe?

 

As I recall when I did my swap there was some minor issue with the bezel and boot cover. I made it all work ok though. As long as you are replacing it I would go with the Spec B parts if they are different.

 

I know the Spec B shifter rods were much better fitment than the 5 speed.

Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine.

"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"

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