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6MT Master Swap Thread


HAMMER DOWN

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What's the recommend fluid for the 6mt these days?

 

Currently, I'm using the Subaru oem 75w-90 thinking about switching to the Motul/shockproof cocktail.

 

Any recommendations?

Edited by Holla
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Hey guys, so I am in the midst of my swap. I'm having a lot of issues with the reverse lockout and the functionality of it in my car.

 

I bought both of the Spec.B linkage arms for my swap, they are on and now in the car no problem at all, but I cannot get a reverse cable that is the right length. My trans is an 06 USDM STi unit, and it came with the factory linkage on it. I have both the stock 06 cable, and the P/N 35060AG010 referenced in this thread but neither of them work.

 

The STi unit is too short and will pull the reverse lockout on its own when in 2-6 and more importantly, is open, which means I can't really use 6th.

 

The Spec.B cable is about an inch too long. It goes all the way to the top of the 06 lever, Am I missing something or not?

 

It seems totally logical to me that the longer rods would need the longer cable, but only by a half inch or so, this thing is like an extra 2 inches or more in length compared to the STi cable. What do I do? try the other cable from an 09?

 

Thank you all for your help.

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I used the Spec B rods and cables and it all works fine. I don't know what to tell you.

Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine.

"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"

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I can set the Spec.B cable to the shortest possible case length and it's still about an inch too long. The STi cable gets to the right spot in the rod but the little sheath isn't seated up against the bottom of the rod and will pull on the lockout thing when shifting. is that not a big deal? I was thinking manufacturing issue on the cable, unfortunately I can't really wait to get another. I only have 3 days left to do this so waiting is out of the question
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  • 2 months later...

Thanks to all of the contributors for experimenting, failing, trying again, collecting data, and collecting this wealth of knowledge.

 

 

I have a 2005 OBXT with a grenaded front diff (still drivable at the moment, but scary in any turns or uneven roads). After weighing the costs of replacing parts, I decided to just go ahead and swap in a 6MT that I happened to run across for "cheap". The previous owner was planning on swapping it into a WRX, until the car got totaled.

 

I'm about to go through with this, but I want to make sure I have the ingredient-list correct for my recipe. I can't afford a long downtime on the car (I know, I know), so I want to have everything as prepared as possible for the swap.

 

Transmission: JDM 2005 model year STI 6MT

Model: TY856WB4KA

 

Contents from the 2005 JDM STI and parts include:

-JDM 6MT with shifter linkage and male front axles. No "stubs" on transmission.

-Rear R180 diff with cradle

-Driveshaft

-Transmission cross member

-4 male axles

-4 knuckles

-DCCD-Pro controller – already wired up and ready to install.

 

 

From what I undersand through this thread, I will need:

-clutch - OEM takeoff should be fine?

-2005+ 2.5i 4EAT driveshaft or spec.b

-Rear axles 07-09 SpecB (P/N 28421AG03B), axle seals (P/N 806732200)

-Reverse lockout cable – 35060AG010

-Tail shaft seal 806735210

-R180 diff mount from the spec B - 41310AG040 (not strictly necessary, but click here for some info)

**05 STi 6MT front half shaft seals: - Which of these is correct?

---Old# L\H 806735240 New# L\H 806735290

---Old# R/H 806735230 New# R/H 806735300

---Output Shaft Oil Seal (oil seal for the driveshaft interface) - 806735210 - $11.50

 

 

*6MT spec.B shift linkage ----- Are any of these redundant?

-Spec B Shifter Rod: 35041AG020

-Spec B Shifter Stay: 35031AG020

-6MT clutch fork – 30530AA050

-6MT clutch fork spring - 30546AA060 - $5.20

-6MT clutch release shaft – 30532AA020

-6MT clutch release plug - 30550AA000

-6MT clutch slave cylinder - 30620AA172 - alternate:30620AA173

-6MT clutch hose --- what is this?

-6MT throw-out bearing

 

 

For DCCD: “You need to tap one wire at the ECU from the TPS sensor (it's in the manual which plug it is on, and which color), and one wire at the handbrake switch. “

 

 

Keep your 5MT neutral sensor switch, put it in the 6MT.

 

 

From what I understand, I don't really need the knuckles from the STI. I can simply use my current FRONT axles with new seals and install REAR spec.b axles? Is that correct?

Is there anywhere to buy the complete shift linkage instead of piece by piece?

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My 5MT starter did not work with the 6MT. You might add that to the shopping list just in case.

5MT clutch fluid hose should work fine with 6MT slave cylinder. You can reuse the rear shifter mount IIRC.

 

 

Sent from a device using some software.

Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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I'm still using the starter from my 05. I wonder what's different.

 

dahoseman...

 

You should be fine with any clutch that was made for a 6-speed STi transmission. So if that's what you mean by "OEM take off" then yes.

 

I don't know about the axle seal part numbers, I don't think the 'new' numbers existed when I did my swap.

 

The clutch hose connects the master cylinder (which the clutch pedal operates on) to the slave cylinder (which operates the throwout bearing).

 

I think I bought a spec B short-shift kit that came with a bunch of shifter-related parts... but I don't remember for sure as I did this all a few years ago.

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^Did not engage the 6MT flywheel, or was it a mounting issue, or something else?

 

 

It didn't engage properly. Starter wouldn't turn the motor over and somehow locked the flywheel in place so the engine wouldn't turn either. '08 GH8 starter and GRF transmission.

 

 

Sent from a device using some software.

Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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Interesting. I'm going to rig my 5MT starter to bench-turn the engine before I put it back in the car so will make sure that it engages with the STI 6MT clutch that's installed. Will advise how that works out.

 

And this post by Sgt. Gator, about Trans and Diff seals, is what I used to purchase my replacement seals for my 08 Spec B 6MT Trans and R180 rear Diff.

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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That interesting that there is one case of the 5MT starter not mating up. I was planning on cannibalizing as much as possible from my current drivetrain.

 

I didn't really think about it, but I guess I can leave my WRX flywheel and Spec 2+ clutch as it is. I got sick of the Clutch Masters failures and decided to try the Spec. It's barely been on the car for 1000 miles, so it would be a shame to buy another clutch.

 

After looking around for shifter linkages, I think I might just have to bite the bullet and order the Cobb short-throw setup for the Spec.B

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Oh, you want to reuse your 5MT flywheel and clutch?

 

 

Sent from a device using some software.

Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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Oh, you want to reuse your 5MT flywheel and clutch?

 

I'm considering it. Has anyone else done this?

 

It looks like some WRX owners have kept their aftermarket FW and clutches from their 5MT's when swapping to 6MT's. Considering that the difference in the clutches is only 1cm larger diameter for the STI, I'm not sure it's worth dropping another $1k on additional parts for that 1cm additional surface contact.

 

My spec 2+ is essentially brand new and is quite grippy. I'm not sure it's even officially broken in yet. I suspect that the extra grip might might have had something to do with the demise of my 5MT front diff.

 

Here are some photos of the setup I'm buying.

I think I may have been looking at the wrong front axles. These in the photo look like they're "female" fronts.

 

The shifter linkage is simply too low to be used in our cars?

Did I miss anything important?

Does anyone see anything that I should be aware of?

Any suggestions for changes?

 

http://i.imgur.com/iDpspor.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/SYM86bg.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/ocnADn4.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/GOIMWYH.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/arNCLSp.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/IFIoj17.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/ehmLKyI.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/7Ix0DT3.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/EEuIDlw.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/Eu2Vkrg.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/njDrWFi.jpg

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Yeah - bearer of bad news. Sorry.

 

Start sourcing a 6MT clutch and flywheel (they're significantly different than the 5MT versions)

 

The 6MT is a pull-type clutch, where the TOB connects directly to the pressure plate and then the shift fork connects to that and pulls the PP away from the CD/FW. The 5MT is a push-type clutch, where the TOB connects to the shift fork and pushes against the pressure plate to release the CD/FW.

 

So, unless your Spec Clutch pressure plate is designed to also work as a pull-type clutch, I don't see that working.

 

Better off to sell it, recoup some funds and use that towards your STI or Spec B 6MT clutch. Did you get a 6MT flywheel with this, or will you have to source that too? If yes, make sure you get the right CD and PP to go with that FW. There's several different ones out there.

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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Yeah - bearer of bad news. Sorry.

 

Start sourcing a 6MT clutch and flywheel (they're significantly different than the 5MT versions)

 

The 6MT is a pull-type clutch, where the TOB connects directly to the pressure plate and then the shift fork connects to that and pulls the PP away from the CD/FW. The 5MT is a push-type clutch, where the TOB connects to the shift fork and pushes against the pressure plate to release the CD/FW.

 

So, unless your Spec Clutch pressure plate is designed to also work as a pull-type clutch, I don't see that working.

 

Better off to sell it, recoup some funds and use that towards your STI or Spec B 6MT clutch. Did you get a 6MT flywheel with this, or will you have to source that too? If yes, make sure you get the right CD and PP to go with that FW. There's several different ones out there.

 

No flywheel with the tranny, unfortunately.

My consideration is just doing the pull-to-push conversion so that I can leave everything as it is with my current setup. If I decided to change my mind in the future and install a STI flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, I can always do that.

 

http://competitionclutch.com/tech/PUB-15028-1.pdf

 

Subaru used to sell their own conversion kit, but they no longer do, according to Infamous.

 

Also, I don't see any threads. Has anyone used SuberDave's hybrid axle kit for the R180?

 

http://wordpress.suberdave.com/?page_id=278

http://wordpress.suberdave.com/?page_id=275

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It should be possible, since I have a friend using a multi-plate clutch for a 5MT on an ex-GDB 6MT. It has some Heath Robinson contraption on there to convert from push to pull type. Ugly as hell but it works.

 

With the shifters, I think any GD or SG 6MT shifter will work for you. It's not the height that is different, it's the length of the mount and shifter rods. The GRB ones also have a different mounting plate to bolt to the tunnel. I personally don't like the 6MT short-shift kits as they are a bit too heavy and you lose resolution that makes finding the 'gate' a bit more hit or miss and a 'money shift' a lot more likely. The stock shift throw on 6MT is great as it is, compared to the 5MT 'stir bucket of custard with chopstick' feel.

Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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It should be possible, since I have a friend using a multi-plate clutch for a 5MT on an ex-GDB 6MT. It has some Heath Robinson contraption on there to convert from push to pull type. Ugly as hell but it works.

 

With the shifters, I think any GD or SG 6MT shifter will work for you. It's not the height that is different, it's the length of the mount and shifter rods. The GRB ones also have a different mounting plate to bolt to the tunnel. I personally don't like the 6MT short-shift kits as they are a bit too heavy and you lose resolution that makes finding the 'gate' a bit more hit or miss and a 'money shift' a lot more likely. The stock shift throw on 6MT is great as it is, compared to the 5MT 'stir bucket of custard with chopstick' feel.

 

I think I can deal with an ugly clutch lever. If someone can drive it and not really know the difference, then I don't care.

 

I'm comnfused on shifters now. So the shifter linkage on this 2005 STI 6MT will actually work in my OBXT? I would rather just 'mod' it and nit replace it if I don't need to.

 

Sorry' what are GDB and SG acronyms?

 

I think I'm going to order Suberdave's hybrid kit. I'm a little worried about the axle handling the increased load from the 6mt rear bias, but we'll see

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A GDB is a post-facelift 2nd gen Impreza, such as a 2005 STi. An SG is a Forester on the same platform, which was also available in STi trim in RHD markets. The shifter from either would work in your 3rd gen Outback.

 

 

Sent from a device using some software.

Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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No flywheel with the tranny, unfortunately.

My consideration is just doing the pull-to-push conversion so that I can leave everything as it is with my current setup. If I decided to change my mind in the future and install a STI flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, I can always do that.

 

http://competitionclutch.com/tech/PUB-15028-1.pdf

 

Subaru used to sell their own conversion kit, but they no longer do, according to Infamous.

 

Good to know. Should work, though watching and managing your adjustment point, through the life of you clutch, now becomes one of those things you will have to do. +/- side to everything in the wonderful world of modding... :)

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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A GDB is a post-facelift 2nd gen Impreza, such as a 2005 STi. An SG is a Forester on the same platform, which was also available in STi trim in RHD markets. The shifter from either would work in your 3rd gen Outback.

 

Ah, so being a 2005 STI transmission, the shifter linkage that comes with the transmission should work in my Outback?

 

I found a local guy who is modding his 2005 STI (lightened flywheel, stronger clutch) and selling the OEM-replaced clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel for $100. I think I might just opt for that. I can't imagine the conversion kit would be shipped and cheaper than that.

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Yes it should bolt right up. Good deal on the clutch parts.

 

 

Sent from a device using some software.

Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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No kidding. Lucky find with that clutch combo. It was replaced with OEM a few years ago and looks like it has plenty of life.

 

Now I need to source a 4EAT shaft and figure out the spline-count on the rear axles so that I can order SuberDave's conversion kit.

 

I'm going to see if I can beat the $3000 6MT swap record :)

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  • 1 month later...

All done. loving it.

 

Unfortunately, I was not able to beat the $3000 mark.

 

$2,100 - 6MT with supports + DCCD

$380 - Lightly used Spec B rear axles

$70 - 4EAT Legacy driveshaft

~$200 - various peripherals

$1,380 - Labor at a shop. Yikes.

_______________

$4,130

 

 

If I was anywhere near "home", I would have borrowed a garage or shed and done the install myself. Anything involving manual labor in NY is outrageous, I've come to realize.

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