6MT Master Swap Thread

[SleeperWagon]

Does anyone know if I can add the Spec B Shifter Rod and

Spec B Shifter Stay to the 04-07 STI OEM SS?

[ruggerheist]

if im aware and watching the MPGs im ok (on the highway) and can keep it in the mid 20's but im still learning this clutch so i think that may cause it to drop during city driving. right now im averaging 20 after my fill up. before i was at 18

[SleeperWagon]

Does anyone know if I can add the Spec B Shifter Rod and

Spec B Shifter Stay to the 04-07 STI OEM SS?

 

Buler?

[Scooby2.5]

Yes I wrote all about it with pictures in one of the 6 speed threads. Do a search for stay CP or something like that and you will find it

[Scooby2.5]

Here you go I found my post in the Master 6 speed thread:

 

 

Guys

I verified this week that the only part that is different from the STI 6 speed shifter is the 35031AG020 Stay CP.

 

Here is a picture to prove this point.

 

In this picture I am comparing a brand new STI SPEC B shifter with a modified 08(??) STI shifter.

 

http://gallery.me.com/gregnauman/100050/IMG_0641/web.jpg

 

The gold colored Stay CP in the pictures that is lengthened (with a smaller diameter piece inserted) is the STI version of the SPEC B 35031AG020 Stay CP.

So if you are using a STI shifter you could order just the 35031AG020 and not have to lengthen your STI stay CP.

 

As you can tell the STI SPEC B shifter (silver) is already longer and matches the lengthened stock STI shifters Stay CP.

 

 

 

 

Also Unclemat had noted in a previous thread/post that you need to order the 35041AG020 ROD CP to get the gold colored joint piece in this picture because the 5 speed piece is different. You need this so the shifter is centered in the hole correctly.

 

So I ordered the 35041AG020 ROD CP and checked it against the joint part that was already on my 08 6 speed transmission and they are identical. So if your 6 speed comes with the gold joint piece shown in this pic you should be good to go. If you do not have this piece order 35041AG020 ROD CP and you will get the Rod and the joint piece.

If you have the gold colored joint piece in the below pic there is no need to order the 35041AG020 ROD CP as the rod portion is the same.

 

http://gallery.me.com/gregnauman/100050/IMG_4751/web.jpg

[SleeperWagon]

Thanks, I saw that before but I want to use the OEM short shifter from a sti.

[Scooby2.5]

It will work the same, only difference in short shifter and the regular one is where the pivot point is on the shifter.

 

The stay CP needs to be longer only because the hole in the floor is in a different location

[jmorris6689]

Too many pages to search. But I'm buying a 07 STi trans drive shaft and rear end hubs brakes axles everything. Can I use the r180 out of the STi and what axles can I use. My friend has a 04 STi and he is taking the hubs and brakes from 07 and I'm taking the 04 brembos and rims. Can I use 04 STi axles and again what axles can I use if I use the 07 rear end?

[SleeperWagon]

Its in the first post of this and http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/nsfws-6mt-swap-thread-143520.html thread.

[jmorris6689]

Thanks

[Scooby2.5]

For those that are running the DCCDpro controller. I am assuming most of you run it in auto mode.

 

With that said do you have the knob all the way up, down or somewhere in the middle.

 

I understand from Jeff Reid (DCCDPRO) that the knob in auto mode changes the aggressiveness of the traction control but is still "auto" adjusting.

 

I have been running my scroll wheel in the middle but was wondering if anyone runs it auto/full agressive

Edited December 19, 2011 by Scooby2.5

[HAMMER DOWN]

Dry & wet roads, I running it all the way down to put most of the power to the rear wheel. Halfway on dirt & snowy roads under a 1". Snow cover roads over 1" Full lock. If you run Full lock on dry Or even wet roads, you can feel drive train bind when corning & sometimes even on straightaways.

Mike

[Scooby2.5]

Sounds to me you are talking about manual mode.

 

In auto mode there is almost no biding as it still adjusts.

it changes the agressiveness of the map changes depending on driving conditions.

This is different from a stock STI where the the thumb wheel doesn't do anything in Auto mode.

 

In manual mode it stays where you put it with the scroll wheel.

 

I was looking for more of what people are doing with the wheel in Auto mode

[NSFW]

I mostly run it in auto mode, but I still can't turn it up more than halfway, otherwise mild throttle will cause it to bind in sharp corners. In manual mode, it will start to bind at a bit less than 25%.

 

I was thinking of contacting him about this actually, it seems like only half of the range of the knob is actually usable. He mentioned that it's programmable but I haven't looked into that yet.

 

Have you guys noticed that sometimes it will switch from auto to manual? It seems to happen somewhat consistently when the engine cranks longer than usual before starting.

[HAMMER DOWN]

Sounds to me you are talking about manual mode.

 

In auto mode there is almost no biding as it still adjusts.

it changes the agressiveness of the map changes depending on driving conditions.

This is different from a stock STI where the the thumb wheel doesn't do anything in Auto mode.

 

In manual mode it stays where you put it with the scroll wheel.

 

I was looking for more of what people are doing with the wheel in Auto mode

 

No, when I bought mine, you had to pick one or the other. Manual or Auto. He didn't comebined the two until later. I have the auto & a OEM thumb wheel. It lets me control the DCCD lock up rate in relation to TP input.

 

Mike

[HAMMER DOWN]

I mostly run it in auto mode, but I still can't turn it up more than halfway, otherwise mild throttle will cause it to bind in sharp corners. In manual mode, it will start to bind at a bit less than 25%.

 

I was thinking of contacting him about this actually, it seems like only half of the range of the knob is actually usable. He mentioned that it's programmable but I haven't looked into that yet.

 

Have you guys noticed that sometimes it will switch from auto to manual? It seems to happen somewhat consistently when the engine cranks longer than usual before starting.

 

Half is for dry the other half is for the lose & slippy stuff.

 

Have Auto only, no problems with the engine cranks longer than usual before starting. But can make my Knock Sum count go up by turning the DCCD control on & off.

 

Mike

[Scooby2.5]

I mostly run it in auto mode, but I still can't turn it up more than halfway, otherwise mild throttle will cause it to bind in sharp corners. In manual mode, it will start to bind at a bit less than 25%.

 

I was thinking of contacting him about this actually, it seems like only half of the range of the knob is actually usable. He mentioned that it's programmable but I haven't looked into that yet.

 

Have you guys noticed that sometimes it will switch from auto to manual? It seems to happen somewhat consistently when the engine cranks longer than usual before starting.

 

I dont notice mine going to manual, but when I first start the car the LED on the manual auto switch is flashing and almost full on bright like its really thinking when you first start the car.

 

Then when I back out of the garage and make a slight turn I get some binding but after that it is pretty much gone.

 

That LED tells you how much the DCCD controller is working. It glows brighter when working more and less when not. So when you get into a turn etc you will see it changing states.

 

I run mine about 1/2 way on the factory STI thumbwheel in Auto mode.

 

 

Here is a quote from Jeffs website at DCCDpro.

 

If your controller is fully automatic why does it have an adjustment knob?

 

The adjustment knob is for manually setting the lock percentage when it is set to manual mode.

 

When in auto mode it is used for setting the “aggressiveness” or magnitude of the internal calculations.

 

The knob functionality in auto mode changes a set of variables that affect the output scaling to the different internal modes. It allows you to tune the controller bias towards a more open diff or a more locked diff while still calculating and adjusting automatically.

 

Think of it as a volume control for a stereo, it doesn’t alter the music it just sets the volume level. You can turn the volume all the way down and the controller will be basically off, or all the way up and have it fighting for the most traction at all times.

[thisisthenewsic]

just an fyi. the 05 sti has 35/65 split. with helical diff.

 

05+sti has helical diff. 04 was the only yr without it.

[DRoc7822]

I will hopefully start purchasing stuff for my 5EAT to 6 Speed conversion here soon and trying to get a good list of things started for it. I will prolly be calling the guys at a local shop to do the swap after hearing nothing but good things from another local guy on here who had the same thing done to his wagon. My questions are..

 

1. For the Pedal assembly.. could I use the pedal assembly from the 5 speed Legacy.. or would I need to use the assembly from the STI or Spec B? Spec B would be alot harder to find I would think.

 

2. When I go to buy the 5mt gauge cluster, 5mt ecu, ignition switch with key and key fob, & key fob antenna... I know it all has to be from the same same car.. but does it need to be from the 5 Speed or does it need to be from the STI... or does it matter?

 

Thanks!

[NSFW]

You're over-thinking this.

 

My 05 LGT + STI 6MT still has the original 05 LGT pedal assembly, gauge cluster, ecu, ignition switch, key, immobilizer, etc.

[frank_ster]

you don't need to change ecu .. just the gauge cluster .. i think .. and 5 mt pedals would work fine.

[KCwagon]

I think you would want the LEGACY manual pedal assembly so it fits without modification. A standard Legacy GT manual ECU is what you want.

[frank_ster]

the ecu's are the same as far as i know .. there is jsut a jumper that identifyies manual or auto

[Scooby2.5]

You're over-thinking this.

 

My 05 LGT + STI 6MT still has the original 05 LGT pedal assembly, gauge cluster, ecu, ignition switch, key, immobilizer, etc.

 

Ditto that statement and by the way there is another thread for Auto to Manual swap I believe.

Edited June 13, 2012 by Scooby2.5

[jmorris6689]

Ok I just read through most of this so flame away at me for the questions that will follow. But. I too am joining this club I shattered second gear and I have bought a 05 STi trans and r180 rear end it has the clutch fork on it and I have the 05 shifter linkage I understand I need the spec b stay for the shifter and what not. But I am royally confused on what damn drive shaft I need I was about to get a 07spec b one then I kept reading about a 4eat shaft and now I have no clue what I need to make this work. I have already ordered the axles from the dealership for a 6mt spec b. and also what do I need to do about a clutch I've read of many Wrx guys running a 5mt clutch in their 6mt car both vehicles have the same spline count and as long as you don't change the flywheel your good to go, but the Wrx and STi transmissions have a pull style clutch where as the legacys is a pull style (I may have the backwards) but my question is can I keep my 5mt clutch?