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6MT Master Swap Thread


HAMMER DOWN

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Digging through both of the threads, the 2.5i's all have 4EATs?

 

Also, every thread suggests using a Spec B rear diff which has the R160 yoke; does this mean an STi rear differential would need modification too?

 

*I have a complete setup from a JDM '07 STi; car I have is a '05 LGT/5mt. From what I gather all I need is the reverse lock-out cable, driveshaft(2.5i 4EAT fine?), and Spec-B axles(meaning I should have everything else already)?

 

Thanks!

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Yes the 2.5i has the 4EAT drive shaft you need.

 

Correct the spec B rear diff is an R180 with the legacy yoke to bolt to our drive shaft

You can either get a spec b R180 or just purchase the yoke and swap it onto an STI R180

 

You will need the Whole shifter with the spec B stay rods or an 08 UP STI shifter.

Your 07 shifter assuming you have it will have one of the rods too short to center it in the hole. Either lengthen it or purchase the longer rod. I have a post about this in NSFW's or one of the other threads. The shifter from a spec b or 08 up sti will work and have the cable.

 

You will need the axels as stated, it would be better to have the R180 spec B mount, you will need the 6 speed rubber mount (most get the group n), the driveshaft from a 4EAT like you said, and a DCCD controller from DCCDpro.com if going with STI tranny.

 

If you read through NSFW's thread pretty much everything is listed with part numbers. Especially the OP. He has been updating the part numbers and adding to it as each of us found something.

Like the down pipe bracket etc

Edited by Scooby2.5
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Thanks Scooby!

 

Would the R160 yoke swap over or is there any way to retain the R180 yoke? I'm just trying to avoid "excess parts"(I have the STi axles and driveshaft too so if I can just swap or build a hybrid driveshaft that would be better)

 

Also, is the Spec-B differential mount specific to the Spec-B or would any (R180)work?

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Yes R160 Yoke will swap, no you can't use the R180 yoke unless MAYBE you get a custom drive shaft.

 

The spec B mount and the STI mount maybe be pretty close to the same you could look up the part numbers to verify.

 

The spec B R180 mount is made for our cars and does fit the R180 better than the R160 mount.

 

I would say the 08 up STI R180 mount may be the same but again you need to verify part numbers.

 

There is a few posts about this by me and KCWagon in this thread or one of the other 6 speed threads

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The custom driveshaft that Hammerdown came up with will allow using an R180 yoke - details are in post #2.

 

The 04/05 STI and Spec B mounts are quite different. My trans/diff package included a diff mount and it was unusable. I agree that the 08+ STI diff mount might work though.

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Thank you very much guys! OK, LAST question; I was looking at short shifters(initially the SPT Spec B one); then started looking at Cobb units and such and noticed they had a specific one for Spec Bs. Do you guys know what the actual difference between the 04-07 STi and the Spec B lever is?
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I just asked Cobb this very question.......

 

Here is the response:

 

"I just talked to my mechanical engineer and he let me know that the Legacy Spec B shifter is different from the 04-12 STI. The upper shaft is different between the two.

 

The only difference between the 215315 STI shifter and the 224316 Spec B shifter is the top rod. On the STI, the shift boot holder screws in from underneath, so our happy shaft has provisions for this. The Spec B shift boot holder screws in from the side. Therefore, the shaft has a thicker portion where this screws attach to. Therefore, you'll just need to determine how your shift boot holder attaches, and order the appropriate one. If you have any other questions, please let me know."

 

 

Just FYI the 08+ STI shifter from what I have heard works as well as the STI spec B shifter.

 

Just remember (if you didn't already know) the shifter from cobb is just the lever. The STI Spec B shifter is the whole thing including the stay rods etc.

 

You still need the correct stay rods to center the shifter in the hole so you will need either an 08 + STI, 08 + STI STS or some sort of spec B shifter either the stocker or the Spec B STS from STI.

 

Whatever shifter you get spec B or 08+ STI order the STS from Cobb that corresponds with whichever shifter you use.

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Thanks! I just wanted to know since used STi stuff seem easier to find than Spec B parts.

 

I guess I'm a liar regarding asking more questions, as I've ran into more confusing info:

Also, a little bit of information for those that get an STi shift linkage. You can buy a 07+ Spec B stay rod and shifter rod so that it puts the shifter in the center of the console opening. You will reuse the STi shift lever and reverse lockout cable as well as the rubber boot thing on the bottom. If you plan on upgrading to an aftermarket shifter and are using the STi shift linkage, only 04-07 STi lever will work as after having a discussion and sending pictures to Tom @ Kartboy, he said that only the 04-07 STi shift lever will work with the STi linkage setup.

 

Part #'s for those that have STi shift linkages and want to center their shifters without cutting/welding/spacing:

 

Spec B Shifter Rod: 35041AG020

Spec B Shifter Stay: 35031AG020

 

Would using Spec B rod/stay apply only to using 04-07 STi/SpecB lever?

 

If using an +08 shifter assembly; all I would need to change out is the stay rod? Also, in the original post, it says to use Spec B reverse lockout cable; can you confirm whether a regular 04-07 STi or +08 STi cable will work(basically; would a complete +08 assembly with new stay work perfectly fine and provide a shorter throw)?

 

Again, thank you VERY much! You've been very helpful answering my questions and I truly appreciate it.

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No problem......

 

What I understand from a reputable source (y2kimports.com) if you get an 08+ STI stock shifter it will bolt right up to our cars and be centered.

I think someone mentioned this in one of the 6 speed threads, check in groffs, this one and the stickied one my hammer down.

It makes since as the 08+ is more based on the Legacy platform.

The shifter should come with the lockout cable already attached to the shifter etc.

 

Now if for some reason its not centered in the hole correctly then all you need is the part I posted about in the link above to post 382 of the 6 speed master swap thread.

 

"So if you are using a 04-07 STI shifter you could order just the STAY CP 35031AG020"

 

I don't think you need the ROD CP 35041AG020 number at all. (unless you need the joint piece see post 382 in thread above)

 

The ROD CP will come with the joint piece attached to it.

 

Ill repost my pics in that other thread post 382 later tonight.

 

You for sure need this part if using an 04-07 shifter but just not POSITIVE about the 08+

Ive heard it works without any changes at all.

 

Now with all that said.....

 

If you want a short throw shifter again order the aftermarket (kartboy, Cobb etc) shifter for a 6speed, for whatever shifter you use.

 

I purchased the Spec B STS from STI. Its very expensive and if you do not like a tall stick don't get it. If you want a super short throw don't get it.

 

Best bet is to get a used 08+ STI shifter assembly and then get the Cobb STS part number 215315.

 

Next best would be 04-07 STI shifter assembly, 35031AG020 STAY CP rod, and then the Cobb STS part number 215315.

 

When I say shifter assembly I mean stick, rods, cable, rubber cover boot etc. like in my picture in post 382.

 

As far as your shorter throw question. NO I don't believe the 08+ is a shorter throw but it is close to the Spec B STS from STI.

 

I think you only get that if you find a STI STS or a STI Spec B STS, or put a Cobb stick in. (or kartboy or others for that matter)

 

The difference is the fulcrum area or the height at which the stay CP rod connects to the stick.

 

IMHO the best best is to get your shifter assembly and then get the Cobb stick....

 

I have the Spec B STS from STI and its too tall and not short enough throw for me. Unclemat and others like it OK but I like the shorter stick and throw.

 

I will probably order the Cobb STS one of these days but i haven't decided yet. I would love to find a used 08+ STI shifter assembly with a Cobb stick already in it and just sell my spec B shifter.

Edited by Scooby2.5
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I actually prefer a tall shifter(closer to the steering wheel), but I'm sure a Cobb STS would fix that and in the end up costing the same or less with a better(shorter) throw. I guess I'll go for the 08+ STi shifter!

 

Thanks!!!

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  • 2 weeks later...
Quick question. Is it possible to use axles off an 02 wrx on the 04 sti transmissions stub shafts or is the only real way to remove the stubs?

 

Don't know, but why if all you have to do is to remove the stubs & replace the front seals. With, 05 STi 6MT front half shaft seals:L/H 806735240,R/H 806735230 & why'll your there,Tail Shaft Seal – 806735210. And reuse your OEM front axles.

 

Mike

 

Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold

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  • 2 weeks later...

On the 08 STI shifter question here is some info from NASIOC, and while it is referring to putting an 08 6 speed in a older WRX it tells you the rods are longer....

 

6. Can the 08 shifter assy be used in an earlier model (WRX) when doing a swap?

 

No - The shifter linkage along with the brace bar underneath are too long. It seems that the hole cut under the center colsole for the shifter assy has been moved backwards in 08 to cause the linkages to be longer. You will need an sti shifter assy from an 04 to 07.

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since doing my swap everything has been copacetic, except recently ive been getting intermittent popping coming from the clutch when shifting low gears. its only audible when my window is down. looked inside by the shift fork with a snake cam and nothing odd was visible. any suggestions before we pull the transmission? to add more detail, from a dead stop in first gear start going (pop), get on it a little more in first (pop again), shift into 2nd (pop), get on it a little more (pop), through the rest of the gears, nothing.
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Something is loose or bad mount? All I can think of, is when moving the torque causes either the engine/transmission or rear differential to twist, and the pop is coming from that. Edited by K2e2vin
...too many "the"
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