kleinerbastler Posted October 27, 2013 Share Posted October 27, 2013 try this cardone part number 60-7371 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cleanspecb Posted October 27, 2013 Share Posted October 27, 2013 Hey guy's! I have been roaming and doing A LOT of research for my 2006 legacy gt for my future build plans with the motor and tranny. I am going to be getting a fully built motor from maxwell motorsports and doing a 6spd STI swap. Have read the heck out of this thread and especially the first page.. Anways I just wanted to verify with the parts list that I need Will be going with recipe A because like the OP I would like the R180 rear diff which is stronger.. Does this all look right and everything that i need for the swap?... Transmission options: 04/05 STI V7 Non DCCD JDM or earlier model Jdm V7 Rear diff options: 04/05 STI, possibly 07-09 Legacy GT R160**? Rear axles: 07-09 Spec B (axles 28421AG03B, axle seals 806732200) Front axles: Regular LGT*** Driveshaft: use a Spec B driveshaft, and replace the differential's input flange with the R160 flange. Or i could purchase a 2.5i 08+ automatic driveshaft? 6MT shift linkage from spec b.. 6mt clutch fork 6mt clutch release shaft 6mt clutch slave cylinder 6mt clutch hose 6mt throw out bearing 6mt rear transmission mount Reverse lock out cable (does this have to be spec b?) R180 Diff mount from spec b? Clutch fork shaft plug Output Shaft Oil Seal Clutch fork spring Inner shift boot Am i missing anything? or what I have listed too much? Thanks guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ama0787 Posted October 27, 2013 Share Posted October 27, 2013 I used empi front axles over stock and cardone based on recommendations from users and i believe turn in concepts no rear spec b equivalent though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ama0787 Posted October 28, 2013 Share Posted October 28, 2013 For you guys who have done the swap would you prefer doing it on jack stands or a 4 post lift with sliding center jacks? TIA, Anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted October 28, 2013 Share Posted October 28, 2013 ^ what ever you got.. Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted October 28, 2013 Share Posted October 28, 2013 If you have access to a lift, don't pass it up. Anything under the car is a lot easier with a lift. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgt.kevin Posted October 28, 2013 Share Posted October 28, 2013 Definitely use a lift. I have done 99% of my swap thus far on a lift and it has been 100% easier than all the other work done on jackstands. I am currently at a standstill as my 6mt slave cylinder that came with my trans is bad. However, as soon as that is fixed, I will post up my experience. I also went with Recipe A. I am using an STi Cobb STS with the STi reverse lockout and a few well-placed zip ties on the spec.b shift linkage, and everything looks good so far. Many thanks to all those in this thread who have already done this swap, as literally, I could not have done it without all of the knowledge your experiences brought to light. Does anyone know if the STi Clutch Master Cylinder is compatible with the LGT? I know they aren't the same part number, just thought I'd ask, since the impreza variation is so much cheaper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted October 28, 2013 Moderators Share Posted October 28, 2013 If using a spec.b transmission, does the neutral sensor still need to be swapped over? I guess I'm not quite sure what the reason is for making the swap--is it legacy vs impreza or 6mt vs 5mt? "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KCwagon Posted October 28, 2013 Share Posted October 28, 2013 If using a spec.b transmission, does the neutral sensor still need to be swapped over? I guess I'm not quite sure what the reason is for making the swap--is it legacy vs impreza or 6mt vs 5mt? The 6 speed Neutral Safety Switch has a reverse polarity to the 5 speed switch for some reason. It is a matter of the "ECU" obtaining the correct data from the switch so I guess it is more of a 5mt vs. 6mt thing. You DO want to change it out while the transmission it out of the car. I didn't swap mine out when I did my 6 speed, and had to do it with the transmission in the car. It was not a bunch of fun since the NSS is on the TOP of the 6 speed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted October 28, 2013 Moderators Share Posted October 28, 2013 Thanks KC. I'm gonna pull it out before dropping the stuff at the shop! "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeltaNu1142 Posted October 28, 2013 Share Posted October 28, 2013 Good idea. My shop pulled the 6MT harness & switches & used all the original 5MT stuff... cruise & reverse lights work as stock. It's one of the few things they did right. Tits mcgee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted October 28, 2013 Moderators Share Posted October 28, 2013 Good idea. My shop pulled the 6MT harness & switches & used all the original 5MT stuff... cruise & reverse lights work as stock. It's one of the few things they did right. I'm hesitant to do too much since I'm going to have andrewtech do the swap, but is that basically the case that all of the 6mt stuff can be removed and replaced with the 5mt stuff, harness and all? "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeltaNu1142 Posted October 28, 2013 Share Posted October 28, 2013 I have the 6MT harness sitting on my workbench, and the 5MT harness installed on the 6MT. Tits mcgee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ama0787 Posted October 28, 2013 Share Posted October 28, 2013 I usually agree but changed tranny in a Avalon for my parents and regretted it. Subframe had to come out which wich meant car had to be lifted off lift platforms just as high as it would from ground. After it setting on platforms i had to wedge cherry picker up against end of lift and hook come along up and pull it from under the car.. Giant pain in the ass Point of story i have to be able to remove items between the ramps/platforms of the 4 post lift. I assume the suby stuff would fit but figured it was worth asking. Thanks, Anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 FWIW, I find it easier to remove the engine for clutch job, or for tranny swap for that matter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kleinerbastler Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 Maybe a noob question, but will install DCCD 6MT coming week, so i will solve questions before. I have a ´06 STi tranny with speedometer gear, but my Spec B doesn´t have. So i can leave this speedometer thing just unmounted?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ama0787 Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 Unclemat, You pull motor out from top right? No dropping subframe. Are you working from ground or jackstands correct? Im thinking of pulling whole thing so i can do some preventative seal changes. I am also doing timing belt. Also you guys recommending a lift realize i am using 4 post with ramps not a 2 post with swing arms? TIA, Anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 Yes, motor goes up (separate from tranny). Tranny goes down. Working on jackstands. Speedo gear can be left unused. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgt.kevin Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 Interesting, if it's with a 4 post, there isn't as much that can be done with the lift besides pulling exhaust components, driveshaft.. i think that's about it. Most of the work can be done on jackstands, just more on your back and less standing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 If by 4 post lift you mean drive-on lift, I would not use it. It would be in the way and I'd do it on jack stands anyway. For example, one needs to remove wheels and disconnect the control arms from the frame (or hub, and well, at least one, but two makes it easier), to be able to insert axles into the tranny. Rear wheels also need to come off for rear axles swap (assuming R180 swap). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kleinerbastler Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 I hope you are not thinking i´m a big noob. Maybe i have asked my question not so clear. Can i install the tranny without speedometer sensor only with screw nut to close the hole from the sensor shaft - or is the (dead) sensor needed to let the speedometer shaft work without destroying the tranny. There is a little price difference between sensor and nut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 1, 2013 Share Posted November 1, 2013 Sorry, actually I was responding hastily and did not think when I wrote my answer. This is actually a good question - I do not know, both of my 6MTs are MY08 models, so no speed sensor on them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted November 1, 2013 Author Share Posted November 1, 2013 My 05 came with the speed sensor. I just left it in & unhooked with no issues for almost 160k. Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgt.kevin Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 Well, everything is in the car, except I'm still wiring up the DCCDPro, but hardware-wise it's all put back together. Now I'm having the fabled clutch bleeding issue. I can't seem to get enough pressure in my system? After bleeding 10 or 15 times, gravity and pressure bleeding, I still can only get the slave to actuate the clutch fork for maybe half of the travel that it needs to, pedal travel is full, never sticks. I have a brand new slave and master cylinders, and a SS clutch line. Anyone have any tricks or tips that I may have missed to get this up and running? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 Did you bench-bleed the MC before you installed it? - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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