6MT Master Swap Thread

[jcole05]

Considering very seriously going for spec B 6MT swap in my 2005 LGT. Was wondering if people worry about the quality of the used pieces out there. I know that to go new is VERY costly but with install and all it seems risky to me to drop 5k+ for a pretty used tranny whose history is unknown.

 

Am I worrying over nothing?

[DeltaNu1142]

I'm sure 6MT's go bad... but not at the alarming rate of 5MT's. All I'm saying is, there's no specific cause for concern about a used 6MT, especially if it's been checked out by a reputable seller of salvaged parts.

[N.Y.X.]

Came across quite the setup on ebay and it seems these guys have quite a few options... But 6MT w/ brembo's, diff, etc for $4k... I thought it was tempting, but I don't know much...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wrx-STI-6-Speed-Transmission-TY856WB1CA-Differential-STI-Brembo-Brake-5x100-STI-/251396923944?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a886ca228&vxp=mtr

[SBT]

Came across quite the setup on ebay and it seems these guys have quite a few options... But 6MT w/ brembo's, diff, etc for $4k... I thought it was tempting, but I don't know much...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wrx-STI-6-Speed-Transmission-TY856WB1CA-Differential-STI-Brembo-Brake-5x100-STI-/251396923944?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a886ca228&vxp=mtr

 

That seems to be a nice pile of hardware.

[ktmrider]

Update to my query, Nabisco to the rescue! Link here: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1097352

 

See the last page for pics of the delta. Here is the other reason I wanted to switch, notice the difference in stub vs male axle seal mating surface:

Got the AA161 sundial/plate for the DS installed yesterday. No leak at all! Got it for $60 at a local stealership, well worth the money. Yes did the seal and o-ring too.

 

Next will be the PS/right plate ( which is seeping despite the new seal ).

[SBT]

What are you using as your starting point for the sundial pre-load setting?

[ktmrider]

What are you using as your starting point for the sundial pre-load setting?

Good question, not a lot of answers.

 

Dealership tech only knew the "count out" method ( count the number of turns when removing ). Since I didn't have that as a reference on the LH sundial I asked the local Scooby shop how many turns it usually takes to remove the tension plate by hand. Generally it's between 0.5 and 0.75 turns. So I went about 0.60 turns from bearing race contact.

 

The dealership did print the install instructions. No mention of generic setting ( again count-out ) but it did include pinion depth info. One tooth of rotation = 0.020mm of depth change. Lash setting is between 0.13 and 0.17mm, using ONLY the RH side sundial for adjustment. Does require removal of trans or at least the tail section to measure properly ( backlash can be measured thru the drain hole with dial gauge ).

 

So way not the right way to do things, worst case I replace the center diff with something a bit more aggressive down the road....

[ktmrider]

Update time.

 

Confirmed the PS/RH sundial part number(s):

 

1. Plate = 38342AA130

2. O-Ring = 806984040

3. Seal = 806735300 ( repost from other threads )

 

Installed everything 12/23 and put on 30 miles around town. So far so good! Not a drop of fluid this AM with the oil level slightly above "F" on the stick.

 

Also an update on Lash/Diff. I found a YouTube from ErictheCarGuy, he posted a bit from the Service Manual which I found helpful. Link here, good stuff starts around 5:30ish:

 

1. Initial tension is set with the LH/DS plate. Tighten plate ( while loosening the RH plate ) until pinion or output shaft will not turn anymore. Then back off plate 3 notches or teeth.

 

2. Confused on RH side via video. See what you think.

 

I used the "rock n roll" method on the RH/PS side. Made contact with the plate to bearing, marked the location, then rotated 3/4 turn. Grabbed the axle cup and moved up/down/around, lots of play. Rotated the plate until radial play of axle cup was neglible, then tightened two teeth/notches. Side note, rotational count of plate when removing was 2.25 turns. Final setting was 2 turns plus two teeth.

 

Again not the ideal method, as mentioned before I'll likely replace the front diff at a future date.

[Soarer]

Question for you 6sp swap gurus.... I'm swapping a Version 7 6 speed into my 05 Legacy GT 5 speed. My trans has male stubs coming out of the front diff. Are there any female axles I can use or am I absolutely required to pull the stubs out of the unit, change the axle seals and sundials and then use the regular 5 speed axles that are currently in the car?

[frank_ster]

^ i dont think the sundials need to be changed.

pre 04 axles are female. so an axle from an older legacy would be female and i think they are the same length. but some one can maybe confirm this.

[Scooby2.5]

Question for you 6sp swap gurus.... I'm swapping a Version 7 6 speed into my 05 Legacy GT 5 speed. My trans has male stubs coming out of the front diff. Are there any female axles I can use or am I absolutely required to pull the stubs out of the unit, change the axle seals and sundials and then use the regular 5 speed axles that are currently in the car?

 

Search this thread for male and stubs and you will find your answer I believe. I just did it and found a few posts about this already......

[Chris GTO TT]

Question, is the spec.B flywheel identical to the STi Flywheel? If no, do the STi clutch kits bolt right up to the spec.B flywheel?

[Scooby2.5]

Go with the STI flywheel and the STI clutch, they are just a bit larger.

[BarManBean]

Question, is the spec.B flywheel identical to the STi Flywheel? If no, do the STi clutch kits bolt right up to the spec.B flywheel?

 

Go with the STI flywheel and the STI clutch, they are just a bit larger.

 

It actually depends. Some of the spec.b flywheels are in fact the same as the STI. Both fulton and I pulled STI flywheels out of our '07 spec.b transmissions. I'm guessing that even with the STi flywheel you can use either a spec.b or an STi clutch, although the STi clutches will be slightly larger (by 10mm I believe).

 

Yours being an '08, I would suspect that you have an actual spec.b flywheel in there.

[Chris GTO TT]

Lol awesome so I won't really know if I need the STi flywheel until I get the transmission out of the car

[BarManBean]

Lol awesome so I won't really know if I need the STi flywheel until I get the transmission out of the car

 

Subaru may actually be able to tell you--*MAYBE* the last 8 digits of the vin will help them to pull that info.

 

Either way, a stock STi flywheel is the way to go unless you are hoping to resurface whatever is in there now. Resurfacing saves a couple bucks, but with the clutch job being such a PITA I would really just pick up a new flywheel anyway--sell your old one for a couple bucks and it's pretty much a wash anyway.

[Scooby2.5]

Again IMHO I would purchase and install a new STI flywheel and new STI clutch.

 

Subaru dealers do not resurface flywheels......

 

Trust me you don't want to pull it out again and those items are not that expensive from fred beans etc!

[BarManBean]

Again IMHO I would purchase and install a new STI flywheel and new STI clutch.

 

Subaru dealers do not resurface flywheels......

 

Trust me you don't want to pull it out again and those items are not that expensive from fred beans etc!

 

That's what I said, lol.

 

And I, like you, am running a stock Sti flywheel with a stock clutch ordered from amazon. Feels perfect.

[Scooby2.5]

That's what I said, lol.

 

And I, like you, am running a stock Sti flywheel with a stock clutch ordered from amazon. Feels perfect.

 

 

Thumbs up! (can't find the icon LOL)

[BarManBean]

For those that have added a spec.b shifter surround--did you have to buy the whole assembly or did you just buy the surround and swap over the ashtray bits?

[Scooby2.5]

I ordered the surround which came with the boot (pleather) and the ashtray bits.

 

With that being said I then swapped out the cheapo spec b boot with a redline boot.

 

I also swapped over the ashtray bits from my outback as it had a lighted ashtray and a real cigarette lighter.

 

The spec b lighter socket was a dummy plug and non lighted ashtray.

 

Spec B is a more expensive car but the Outback XT had some way more nice features

 

 

You could probably just buy the surround and swap your stuff over if in fact they will sell it to you that way.

[BarManBean]

Sweet. If you swapped the outback bits over that's exactly what I wanted to know.

 

Basically the shop left my 5mt surround in and installed the 6mt boot/retainer ring into that. Fit is obviously not perfect. The bummer is that my 5mt boot/retainer ring has gone missing.

 

At this point I'm just gonna buy a spec.b surround and redline bits. I *think* i might be able to order the surround separate. I hope so because it's about $100 more to order the whole shebang if that's what I have to do.

 

Thanks again, Scooby--full of useful info you are!

[BarManBean]

Part number for JUST the trim surround seems to be 92122AG10A.

[DeltaNu1142]

FWIW, I'm using all original 5MT parts (except the shifter, obviously) and a Redline 5MT boot & all is well.

[BarManBean]

FWIW, I'm using all original 5MT parts (except the shifter, obviously) and a Redline 5MT boot & all is well.

 

Yeah, I would stick with my 5mt surround, but I'm missing the correct boot retainer ring now. If i'm going to order part(s) i may as well just do the 6mt stuff.