KCwagon Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 Clutch fork and TOB are installed correctly. What I don't understand is after bleeding, it feels totally perfect, but that only lasts a few dozen shifts before the pedal falls to the floor, or the engagement point rises by 6 inches, and getting into gear is very difficult. That is odd. It does sound like there is air moving around in the hydraulic system. The whole system is pretty straightforward -1) mechanical input (pedal) to 2) Hydraulic system to 3) mechanical output (clutch fork). It sounds like the Master cylinder is goofed to me. I am assuming there are no leaks between the master cylinder and slave cylinder as well ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PutnamCO Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 I don't think so, as I checked both connections at the ends of the line that have the 10mm bolts. I think in all the bleeding I did, I would have seen a leak. I'm wondering if there was air caught at the top of the slave cylinder that wasn't being bled out the standard way. Do you think that is possible? My only other guess has to do with the cap, which I replaced with something with a smaller top when I had a Perrin-style TMIC. It still creates a seal, but it's the only part that's different. However, I've been running that cap for the last 60k miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KCwagon Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 I don't think so, as I checked both connections at the ends of the line that have the 10mm bolts. I think in all the bleeding I did, I would have seen a leak. I'm wondering if there was air caught at the top of the slave cylinder that wasn't being bled out the standard way. Do you think that is possible? My only other guess has to do with the cap, which I replaced with something with a smaller top when I had a Perrin-style TMIC. It still creates a seal, but it's the only part that's different. However, I've been running that cap for the last 60k miles. I suppose it is possible to have air in the top of the slave. I have bled mine and I have seen a Subaru tech do it...it is pretty easy. You would also know if there were a leak at either end of the clutch line. The issue that you describe really does sound like air in the system. I know a really good Subaru tech, I will call and ask him if he has ever experienced this issue and see what he says. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PutnamCO Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 I suppose it is possible to have air in the top of the slave. I have bled mine and I have seen a Subaru tech do it...it is pretty easy. You would also know if there were a leak at either end of the clutch line. The issue that you describe really does sound like air in the system. I know a really good Subaru tech, I will call and ask him if he has ever experienced this issue and see what he says. Yeah, I'm still a bit puzzled, so that would be great. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PutnamCO Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 Just drove nearly 20 miles of stop and go, and the clutch felt perfect. On a side note, my new Clutchmaster FX400 is way easier to drive than my old Spec stg 3. It is a full-face, so I'm sure that's part of it. Much smoother engagement and the pedal force required feels about half of the Spec clutch. Would the different pedal force have anything to do with the pull style STI clutch compared to the push style LGT, or is that strictly the different pressure plates? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KCwagon Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 Just drove nearly 20 miles of stop and go, and the clutch felt perfect. On a side note, my new Clutchmaster FX400 is way easier to drive than my old Spec stg 3. It is a full-face, so I'm sure that's part of it. Much smoother engagement and the pedal force required feels about half of the Spec clutch. Would the different pedal force have anything to do with the pull style STI clutch compared to the push style LGT, or is that strictly the different pressure plates? I believe Clutchmasters changes the fulcrum point of their pressure plate so that there is a leverage advantage over other clutches. Is the clutch working ok now ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PutnamCO Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 I believe Clutchmasters changes the fulcrum point of their pressure plate so that there is a leverage advantage over other clutches. Is the clutch working ok now ? Clutch felt perfect on the way to school, and I'll be leaving in a couple hours, so I'll report back. That's interesting about the Clutchmaster pressure plates. That makes sense, and although I don't mind a left leg workout, it is a nice change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeltaNu1142 Posted October 20, 2013 Share Posted October 20, 2013 Last night I installed a Spec.B reverse lockout cable on the 2010 STi transmission in my '09 LGT so it would work with my Cobb Spec.B adjustable STS. I can confirm that the Spec.B cable is definitely a couple of inches longer than the STi cable. I drove for about 5 miles & heard some rubbing noise from the cable on the driveshaft... the cable needs to be longer, but the STS positions the cable lower than on the stock shifter, so there's a lot of slack. The damage surprised me... a clean ring around the driveshaft where the paint scraped off, and a chunk of plastic gone from the cable housing. No good, but no need to replace anything. I hung it up with two zip ties & will try it out today. Tits mcgee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted October 21, 2013 Share Posted October 21, 2013 I'm in pretty much the same boat. The guy at the shop that installed my clutch and STS a couple weeks ago said he zip-tied the cable so it wouldn't rub... about a week later it was rubbing when in 5th gear. I lengthened the lever, but now the knob sits too high and the throw is too long. Need to get under the car and take a look. I don't know that I would trust zip ties to last long... Then again I have no idea what size zip tie he used, or how many. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeltaNu1142 Posted October 21, 2013 Share Posted October 21, 2013 Well... after I posted, I struggled with this for a while. Too many zip ties too tight will bind the cable & the lockout won't work. You really have to balance security with function, I guess. I ended up using one zip tie just forward of the bend in front of the shift lever cup. All of the slack in the cable is forward of that, and it's pretty tight behind that, where it's most likely to hit the driveshaft where it exits the shifter. I would have taken a photo, but I was under the car four or five times trying to get it right, and when I did, I didn't want to go back. Don't let it rub too long! Or just stay out of 5th. My 5 miles was in-town driving 1 through 4, and it caused scoring on the DS and damage to the cable. At higher speeds, it's probably going to be worse. Tits mcgee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted October 21, 2013 Share Posted October 21, 2013 (edited) Last night I installed a Spec.B reverse lockout cable on the 2010 STi transmission in my '09 LGT so it would work with my Cobb Spec.B adjustable STS. I can confirm that the Spec.B cable is definitely a couple of inches longer than the STi cable. I drove for about 5 miles & heard some rubbing noise from the cable on the driveshaft... the cable needs to be longer, but the STS positions the cable lower than on the stock shifter, so there's a lot of slack. The damage surprised me... a clean ring around the driveshaft where the paint scraped off, and a chunk of plastic gone from the cable housing. No good, but no need to replace anything. I hung it up with two zip ties & will try it out today. From the Cobb instructions...... 9. Go under the car and release the reverse lockout cam so that it can operate. Check the reverse lockout operation in the cabin at this time to ensure proper function. If you will be setting the height of the shift lever short, you will have to use zip ties to keep the reverse lock- out cable from contacting the drive shaft as it did on the test car in the below picture. Setting the height in the higher ranges may not make this a requirement. Due to the geometry changes and how they may affect this cable, COBB Tuning is not responsible for any damages to the cable or driveshaft if you do not check the clearance and secure the cable if necessary. There is even a picture: http://www.cobbtuning.com/Double-Adjustable-Short-Throw-Shifter-LGT-Spec-B-p/224316.htm Click on the link for the instructions the picture is in there Edited October 22, 2013 by Scooby2.5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeltaNu1142 Posted October 21, 2013 Share Posted October 21, 2013 (edited) I read it and exchanged emails with Cobb before I tackled it. I just didn't have the manual handy when I did it... and your wicked long link doesn't work. Edited October 21, 2013 by DeltaNu1142 Tits mcgee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted October 21, 2013 Share Posted October 21, 2013 Photo link doesn't work for me either. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 Just go to Cobb website and look up spec b 6 speed STS. One you find it there is a link for the instructions PDF That's what I placed the link to. Not sure why it's not working Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted October 22, 2013 Moderators Share Posted October 22, 2013 So if I'm installing a spec.b transmission with spec.b lockout cable and spec.b short shifter, is there going to be a similar issue with the lockout cable? Or is this issue with sti lockout cables only? "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeltaNu1142 Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 I think you'll be OK. My problem was trying to use a Spec.B shifter with an STi lockout cable. Incidentally, I think I picked up some rubbing on the way into work in lower gears. I'm going to have to get under the car again tonight... Tits mcgee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted October 23, 2013 Share Posted October 23, 2013 Any lockout cable with a STS, like from Cobb etc will need to be tie wrapped. The cable is made for the length of the shifter down through the hole to the transmission. If you shorten any part of that the cable is long. I had the STS from STI for a spec b and installed it with my tranny swap. It was fine until I installed the Cobb STS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeltaNu1142 Posted October 23, 2013 Share Posted October 23, 2013 (edited) Here's my Cobb Spec.B STS in all its midget glory. I used the STi boot ring--or whatever you call the plastic piece below the lockout collar--and used two tiny zip ties to hold the Redline boot to it at its smallest diameter. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/23/u7u3e8ut.jpg I've also come up with a plan for the reverse lockout cable: spiral wrap. The trouble with zip ties in this application are, if they're too tight, the cable binds; if they're too loose, they slide & let the cable move around. I'm going to go get some today. Edited October 23, 2013 by DeltaNu1142 Tits mcgee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted October 23, 2013 Share Posted October 23, 2013 Spiral wrap is a great idea! I zip tied mine pretty tight, not overly tight and it has been fine, but I know what you mean about being too tight for the cable to move properly inside the sleeve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 I'd shoot some silicon spray down the inside of the cable, then spiral-wrap and zip-tie it. Preventative and preservative at the same time. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kleinerbastler Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 (edited) I need help. In Europe the Spec B wasn´t common. So it´s more than hard to find the needed rear axles 28421AG03B. Can someone give me a contact to a seller of these items? Or can i also use the 28421AG020 from the RHD UK Spec B? Thanks. Edited October 24, 2013 by kleinerbastler Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 26, 2013 Share Posted October 26, 2013 (edited) ^ UK/EDM/JDM parts will be fine (or even preferable). 28421AG020 will be fine. Edited October 27, 2013 by unclemat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kleinerbastler Posted October 26, 2013 Share Posted October 26, 2013 (edited) oh, now i´m bit confused. For the R180 i need the axles from Spec B. But the 28421AG010 and 28421AG011 are from R160 with 25 spline count in/out. The Spec B axle has inner 27 spline and out 25 spline count. Or has someone experience with the remanufactored parts from cardone - some say, it´s cheap china crap. Edited October 26, 2013 by kleinerbastler Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 27, 2013 Share Posted October 27, 2013 You are right. I am looking at JDM part database and indeed 28421AG010 is listed for 5MT/5EAT cars, but 6MT as well. I knew the Rev.A (MY2004) JDM SpecB had a 5MT, but I did not realize that Rev.B-C cars that came with 6MT came with R160. 28421AG020, however is specific to Rev. D-F 6MT cars, so I bet this is the correct part for R180 diff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted October 27, 2013 Share Posted October 27, 2013 i have cardone axles for 42$ from rock auto .. and very good so far. but there not availiable for spec b 180 diff as far as i know. Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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