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Which Battery to get?


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are you entering an SPL competition? Why do you need that much power? I have about 400w rms between my sub and 4 channel and it can go louder than you can bare and is still crystal clear at that volume too.... actually, i have Db measurement somewhere. i'll try and find it

(Updated 8/22/17)

2005 Outback FMT

Running on Electrons

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are you entering an SPL competition? Why do you need that much power? I have about 400w rms between my sub and 4 channel and it can go louder than you can bare and is still crystal clear at that volume too.... actually, i have Db measurement somewhere. i'll try and find it

Lol, I am running two 12" Kicker L7's among other things. The amp is from my old setup in another car where I was running two 15" L7's :eek:. I like my music loud at times :lol:

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I can't find the post with the dB measurments in it. I think it was like 115dB with teh car off and 118dB with it on.

 

130 and 132 also stick out in my mind, but that seems too high

 

That's full range sound too, not tones or just bass.

(Updated 8/22/17)

2005 Outback FMT

Running on Electrons

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I can't find the post with the dB measurments in it. I think it was like 115dB with teh car off and 118dB with it on.

 

130 and 132 also stick out in my mind, but that seems too high

 

That's full range sound too, not tones or just bass.

I wish I had a measurement on the 15" setup, im sure it was close to 140db. You could hardly sit in the car on low notes with the bass at full tilt. It was more of the "watch this" type of setup. Lol now days I hardly even drive with the radio on. :redface: My box spent about 2-3 months on the garage floor.

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  • 1 month later...
I mail ordered the Deka ETX16L (all weather version) which is the exact same as the Braille "All-Season" at half the cost. It even came with free shipping. The only thing I had to do was source the brass posts.

I got mine here: http://products.kylealbright.com/product_info.php/cPath/31/products_id/34?osCsid=d0de851669054cb61382181df7ea081b

Get the brass connector posts here: http://www.odysseybatteries.com/accessories.htm scroll down to "SAE Automotive Terminals". Sorry, I don't remember the price.

In the end, it dropped 20lbs off the front of the car in 10 minutes and it has been perfect for 18 months now. I could feel the difference on turn-in immediately.

 

I found this one: http://www.batterymart.com/p-Big-Crank-ETX16L-Battery.html Big Crank battery. Everytime I search Deka it returns big crank. It this the same battery? label is different.. But it says manufacture by Deka.. Hug?

There are no bad people, just differeent.
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"Premium quality absorbed glass mat technology (AGM) is ideal for ATVs, motorcycles, personal watercraft, & snowmobiles"

 

yeah, that's the battery for you

 

:lol:

I do not need a big battery :-)) I drive my LGT like a motorcycle anyway:-)

So, BigCrank== Deka?? :confused:

There are no bad people, just differeent.
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This battery has the same rating (Did not check it though) as odyssey 680, about 550 CCA for a first 5 second. Which is more then enough for me.

I'll buy one when I confirm that 5 sec CCA ..

There are no bad people, just differeent.
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So far, for 3 years - never used more than 2 sec of cranking..

As for a lights and radio.. it still should be enough, if it is really have 550 CCA for a 5 sec, right? Same as "normal" battery has for a 30 sec..

There are no bad people, just differeent.
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If these batteries were just as good as a full size battery, then we'd see alot more of them. In this eco friendly era, shaving weight is increasing MPG.

 

So if these dry cell superlightweight batteries were good for anythign other than dragstrip use.... you'd see them used that way, but you don't

(Updated 8/22/17)

2005 Outback FMT

Running on Electrons

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i went with meier's rec, the $80, 28 lb, 495 CCA diehard 51, working great; weight just a little bonus in my case; the ease of working in that corner with my setup (fmic) has gone from ugh to ooh. oem in the 5eat is 490 CCA.

i'd recommend that anyone considering this particular route to go with the 'reversed' model, as i noticed the terminals are opposite for the leggy when i got home. i simply flipped it in backwards and it sits/clears/reaches the cables just fine, but i imagine there are ppl who wouldn't be able to live like that, lol.

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^ 05 5eat is 490 (at least by the label). i think i noticed earlier in this thread the MT is even lower iirc, like 465 or something. i wanted something with as much punch as stock, but i'm very good about not using accessories off ignition, so i didn't mind a little drop in size/weight; it really helps me with space and isn't ridiculously small in the event of an emergency -- my gut tells me even though it's somewhat smaller, the new diehard will outperform the 5 y/o tired ass stocker in any event.

i'm just curious (my battery education was earned almost exclusively in these 7 pages, :lol:): how do you figure you can go so low on the amps?

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how do you figure you can go so low on the amps?

There are few, but I thibnk it is enouhg for me to make such decision:

1. people are using such small batteries, like Braille, oddyssey 670, etc.

They crank hi-comp V6 engines with them.

2. I never listen music while engine is off. Same for the lights.

3. Car is always stays in garage during a night.

4. never needed to cranck longer than 1-2 sek.

5.These batteries usually has more then 450 CCA for a first 3-5 seconds, which should be enough for me.

6. I never take LGT far away from home, like to travel, go to a mountains, etc. this is my DD car, 5 miles to work.. This minimises a loss if one cold day battery won't crank.

7. I live in a hot Atlanta (Hm.. today is 18F!)

 

I know my risks, but taking 25 pound off from the car will overcome it.

Going to Stage 2 is a risk too, right? risking for much more than dead battery here, most of us.. For 1-2 sek faster runs?:p

There are no bad people, just differeent.
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