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"Saggy Butt Shims"


TRS

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just to let anyone know, if you buy the geo studs, and the 3/8 butt shims and have a rear strut tower bar. you can get the tower bar in but it doesn't leave a desirable amount of threads after installing the nuts.

so you'd have to choose between keeping the bar in or ditching it for more peace of mind that the nuts are in enough

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Make sure there are no obstructions to the bars mount sitting flat. I probably exceeded the torque spec by a few pounds. But not much. I have at least 3 full threads. Even drove 4000 mile road trip last summer that way. Loaded with everything. Made 5 trips down the 1320 that way last weekend. Pulled a 13.9 in my 5EAT.
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  • 1 month later...

1. Do the (02-07) Impreza "FRONT" top hats match the (05-08) Legacy top hats?

 

2. Are the Legacy front top hats the same from model years 01-08?

 

3. Are the Legacy rear top hats the same from model years 01-08?

 

4. What size studs are on the Legacy rear top hats from (01-08)? The newer (08-10) Impreza has M10 studs.

 

5. Do the Legacy top hats match the newer Impreza (GR Chassis)? I know the SH Forester and GR Impreza match.

 

6. Do any of you own a Legacy or have a friend with one and can take a picture of your front & rear top hats installed? I will also need some measurements from bolt center to bolt center of these.

 

Thanks for all your help!

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Depends on Springs. If getting the set up with the OEM springs then no. If using aftermarket springs yes.

 

The full OEM package ride height is basically just like a stock SpecB. If you raised it any you would look like a Forester, lol.

 

Using the SpecB tophats with lowering springs usually causes the "saggy butt" look.

 

The SpecB has it a little from the factory, but you do not want to lift it any.

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I had them on my Bil HD with stock springs and it leveled things out some. I've recently installed Ion springs (Sport/Fr & HD/Rr) and did not use the shims. There is a small difference in the gap but not that bad. I'm still waiting for the springs to settle out before making my final judgement. While driving highway speeds, I have noticed a big drop in road noise since removing the shims.

 

Cheers,

Mike

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  • 2 weeks later...

I had my 3/8 shims added today. I had some rear suspension issues and finally had my Swifts put back on the rear. While it was being done, I figured I would need the Shims to TBD too. I went from 17s to 18s a few months ago.

 

The tech called me up mid way through the job and said the struts would not go on the car with the shims as there was not enough thread to put the nuts on. I ended up buyign some extended studs which solved the problem. The result: 1 finger gap.

 

I had heard if you used 1/2" shims, you would need the extended studs, not the 3/8. I have JDM Rev As. so I think that was the issue...

Rehab is for quitters.
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My 3/8" shims are going on my Spec Bizzle Bilsteins this weekend, and I'm using the Geo Metro studs (thanks Smitty :)).

 

Has anyone picked up additional NVH from using the shims? My thought was to some isolating rubber (1/16" or so) and lay it in between the top of the shim and the shock mount, similar to the way the top hats have some rubber isolation on top.

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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No. 3/8" shims require the extended studs too. Geo Metro 10mm wheel studs do the trick.

 

Really? I read the studs were only needed for 1/2" +....oh well...I am now back in order...

Rehab is for quitters.
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Just had my 3/8" spacers put on the car this Thursday. Got them from Fred Beans, and it seems like from their description you only need the longer studs for the 1/2" spacers.

 

"Notes:

-Sold as a set of Two ( 2 )

-The 1/2 inch Spacers include Four ( 4 ) lengthened Strut Top Suds to compensate for the taller Spacers, as the factory studs may be too short for the 1/2 inch Spacer."

 

The shop didn't say my studs were too short, so I hope the nuts are not just halfway threaded on onto the studs. They're pretty good about telling me things like that....I hope. Maybe there's some model/year/supplier variations out there causing the inconsistencies?

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Stock studs are the same all model years. Stock studs and 3/8" spacers leave 2-3 threads to use. This is well documented. I was part of the original testing. 1/4" spacers and stock studs are fine. 3/8" spacers, Metro studs and a rear strut bar are fine (I ran this set up). 1/2" spacers and Metro studs leave 2-3 threads to use.

 

You can PM me if you have any specific questions. I fit tested the Paranoid Fab pieces. FBP is just a copy of those.

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