Guest Posted March 28, 2010 Share Posted March 28, 2010 I disagree with the 1/4" spacers being fine with stock studs. Not enough threads for full engagement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TPLGT Posted March 28, 2010 Share Posted March 28, 2010 I have JDM rev As...not even close w/o the studs using 3/8 spacers. Rehab is for quitters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 28, 2010 Share Posted March 28, 2010 JDM or not, the stock studs are the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berkshire40 Posted March 28, 2010 Share Posted March 28, 2010 im running 1/4" without studs and wouldnt go bigger w/o extending them. Mod list & photos _ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted March 28, 2010 Share Posted March 28, 2010 I would recommend the studs even with the 1/4 spacers. But I am OCD. There are deff. less threads available than stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waxiboy Posted March 28, 2010 Share Posted March 28, 2010 Is there a way to take out the stock studs without disassembling the struts (I am too lazy ). I was thinking of using a socket just big enough to clear the stud head and then press it out with a C clamp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowFast Posted March 28, 2010 Share Posted March 28, 2010 ^ I did mine without disassembling. I did however need a spring compressor to get the tension off to move the rubber isolator out of the way. Then just gave them a few quick wacks with a hammer and out they came. Pressed the new ones in and was ready to throw them back on the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bochinam Posted March 28, 2010 Share Posted March 28, 2010 ^ I did mie without disassembling too. Put the car on jack stands, then use the jack to compress and hold the strut in place so you can get the bolts out / in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Claw Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 Quick question - I've got iON HD rear springs with an extra rubber perch that I plan on installing in a few weeks, onto my stock struts. Do I need the "Saggy Butt Shims" at all, and if so should I get the 1/4" or 3/8"? This is for an '05 GT Wagon. Much thanks in advance, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbcracken Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 Why are you putting the extra rubber perch on? Should only need one, right? FTW, I removed my 3/8" shim when I installed my Ion HD rear springs on my 05 wagon. I am running Bilstein HD's with a SpecB front tophats and the Ion Sport springs (progressive). Cheers, Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 Two rubber perches is the old "scary" (IMHO) way to lift the rear end. Ditch the extra perch and get some shims. Two perches causes spring preload. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteyjr Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 I have ION HD rears as well on my 05 wagon and they are a bit low when the back is loaded. Non spec B top hats and it still looks like the rear could be higher. FastWRX site sells the extended studs http://www.fastwrx.com/sabusp1.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbcracken Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 My wagon does have less wheel gap in the back then front but that is how wagons sit as well and I like the look. I also noticed a big drop in road noise after removing them. Just so it is documented... The longer Geo Metro studs have enough thread to still work if one decides to remove the shim. This way you don't have to remove them and risk wearing out the press fitting for the studs. I also ended up tack welding mine studs in place because they were free spinning. Cheers, Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteyjr Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 What, you don't like the Starsky and Hutch look ? Not a big fan of road noise and making me think twice about doing this. I do however have a trick up my sleeve (using leftover RAAMAT sound absorbtion material) . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 Whats the road noise issue? I noticed no increase in NVH when I installed the shims. In reality they should work as a "pad" because they are softer than the steel top hat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Claw Posted April 11, 2010 Share Posted April 11, 2010 Cool, thanks. I bought the extra perch way back when it was still in style - maybe 4 years ago? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted April 11, 2010 Share Posted April 11, 2010 The steel tophat has a rubber isolator between it and the mount location IIRC. Will have to pull my stocker out and check it. If that's the case, then I'm going to get some isolation matting and put it on top of the shim before I do the install. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted April 11, 2010 Share Posted April 11, 2010 I don't remember an isolator Dale. I could be mistaken. Memory is the second thing to go with age. What was the first thing to go again? I just remember there being metal on the mating surface. The Shims are made of a poly-u. They do offer some vibration elimination as they are not metal. I have been running the shims for 20k miles. I was just checking the suspension yesterday. Everything is fine. No NVH from the shims Wish you had ridden in the car on the "fun run". Then you could have listened for yourself. If I thought I heard a noise from the rear suspension being caused by the shim, I would sure as heck have fixed it by now. -Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 Just pulled mine out to check them (the shims) and they are either a very hard plastic or nylon (with a smooth finish). If they were PU, I don't think I'd worry about this as much. It's a quick install, so hopefully, I'll get them on and check them out this weekend... - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black318i Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 They are HDPE (High Density PolyEthylene). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 Thanks for clarifying - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 Yes, thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black318i Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 No problem, it was listed on this site so I purchased some from Tapp Plastics. Apparently it what chopping board are made out of. http://www.camotoy.com/products/saggybutt/index.php Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Claw Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 Partsource (Canada) has these Geo Metro studs for $1.89 each. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Claw Posted May 1, 2010 Share Posted May 1, 2010 Swapped springs tonight, put in my ION progressive fronts and HD rears, with a 3/8" tophat. Looks a bit high out back.. One big problem though, is that both Geo Metro studs in the pass rear side spins loosely when the upper nut is tightened. So failing finding a secure option, can I try JB Weld to "stick" the studs to the tophat, or find some M10-1.25 nuts and bolts to secure the works together? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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