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Mobil 1 Good or Bad???


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I find it strange that you use RTFM. Manual says 5W30 is oil to use so any oil that meets 5W30 (from bottom or top of the viscosity range) should be OK. If not then Subaru is improperly specifying the oil.

 

Krzys

I'll say it again for the headheaded folks. NOT ALL 5W-30 OILS ARE THE SAME WEIGHT. :spin:

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That's right, some are 15w40 and some are 0w20 :lol:

 

Let's summarize for the late comers:

 

1. IF YOU DON'T USE SYNTHETIC OIL YOU ARE AN IDIOT.

2. Not all synthetic oils are the same so yo must use the right one ir it is very bad.

3. If you cared about your car you owuld know what type of oil to use and you would not use Mobil 1 which is EVIL.

 

Is that bout right?

 

:lol:

 

Oil threads are almost as good as grounding kit threads....

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That's right, some are 15w40 and some are 0w20 :lol:

 

Let's summarize for the late comers:

 

1. IF YOU DON'T USE SYNTHETIC OIL YOU ARE AN IDIOT.

2. Not all synthetic oils are the same so yo must use the right one ir it is very bad.

3. If you cared about your car you owuld know what type of oil to use and you would not use Mobil 1 which is EVIL.

 

Is that bout right?

 

:lol:

 

Oil threads are almost as good as grounding kit threads....

:rolleyes:

 

1. Dino is fine.

2. The weight/type you use is important depending on climate. Using what is recommended my the manufacturer universally is blind, using different weight oils can benefit in extreme climates.

3. In my (and other's) personal experience, Mobil 1 5w-30/10w-30 is very thin and shears very easily under load.

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Good point - how could the manufacturer's recommendations based on expected temperatures possibly be correct? What do they know about the motors that they build?

 

This shearing thing is very interesting - did you put a boroscope inside of the motor to watch this shearing or did you just destroy lots of bearings and conclude that the oil "sheared" because it was too thin?

 

Once again, oil threads really deliver the goods.

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Apparently enough that they lowered the oil change intervals due to the number of reported "problems" thought right?

 

Bearings are destroyed because of oil starvation caused when the oil shears down. The driver is thinking "oh my oil is good oil, so i'll change it 5-7k," when in fact the oil levels are dangerously low by that time. Synthetics often advertise longer OCIs but would you still run it if is disappeared in 5k?

 

It's not just my personal experience with M1 shearing and me missing oil, thee are tons of accounts....but if you're happy with what you got and you're not missing any oil, carry on.

 

The rest can read BITOG and other oil forums to learn more.

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:orly:

 

so what do you recommend that's thick enough for the LGT? how's gas mileage with the thick oil?

 

let's see, Subaru engineers recommend 5w-30, Mobile 1 5w-30 meets the SAE standards...but yet it's too thin? :confused:

 

Would you rather have a tad less MPG or a spun bearing? Subaru engineers recommend 5w-30 because the vehicle yields better MPG. Let me break it down for you : Thinner weight (viscosity), less friction and resistance, your rotating assembly moves easier. A lot of 5W30 oils meet SAE requirements but that doesn't mean it's a thick or thin weight.

That's why I only use straight 50 weight oil :lol:

 

In some climates 50 weight oil is perfectly fine.

I find it strange that you use RTFM. Manual says 5W30 is oil to use so any oil that meets 5W30 (from bottom or top of the viscosity range) should be OK. If not then Subaru is improperly specifying the oil.

 

Krzys

 

Subaru is not improperly specifying the oil to use. Subaru is giving you the recommend oil to use to yield best MPG. You n00bs have to realize in this day-'n-age people are purchasing cars based on MPG. So guess what? Subaru will market cars based on what consumers want.

That's right, some are 15w40 and some are 0w20 :lol:

 

Let's summarize for the late comers:

 

1. IF YOU DON'T USE SYNTHETIC OIL YOU ARE AN IDIOT.

2. Not all synthetic oils are the same so yo must use the right one ir it is very bad.

3. If you cared about your car you owuld know what type of oil to use and you would not use Mobil 1 which is EVIL.

 

Is that bout right?

 

:lol:

 

Oil threads are almost as good as grounding kit threads....

 

I don't even know how to respond to this ignorant post. When you have some intelligence in regards to proper oil usage and such; then provide help to members. Until then don't.

Good point - how could the manufacturer's recommendations based on expected temperatures possibly be correct? What do they know about the motors that they build?

 

This shearing thing is very interesting - did you put a boroscope inside of the motor to watch this shearing or did you just destroy lots of bearings and conclude that the oil "sheared" because it was too thin?

 

Once again, oil threads really deliver the goods.

I can't believe this board is full with oil n00bs. The way to tell what is going on with your oil is getting it analyzed by a lab. Please research before you make retarded comments. If any of you wonder what I run in my STI. I run ENEOS 5W40. I live in Texas where we see heat up in the 103°F.
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I don't recall Subaru changing the viscosity requirements. I agree, use whatever oil you like and read whatever sources of information you like.

 

You are missing the point. Just because it say 5W-30 on the cap DOESN'T MEAN THAT'S THE ONLY OIL TO USE. http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f120/awd06sti/IMG_0427.jpg You have a lot of reading and learning to do....

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If any of you wonder what I run in my STI. I run ENEOS 5W40. I live in Texas where we see heat up in the 103°F.

 

Of course you do. Classic.

 

Being called a noob is fun and so is being called retarded, are those the analytical skills you used to determine what oil is best? :lol:

 

See, oil threads really do deliver :)

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Of course you do. Classic.

 

Being called a noob is fun and so is being called retarded, are those the analytical skills you used to determine what oil is best? :lol:

 

See, oil threads really do deliver :)

Your stark sarcasm however, does not deliver. :lol:

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That's right, some are 15w40 and some are 0w20 :lol:

 

Let's summarize for the late comers:

 

1. IF YOU DON'T USE SYNTHETIC OIL YOU ARE AN IDIOT.

2. Not all synthetic oils are the same so yo must use the right one ir it is very bad.

3. If you cared about your car you owuld know what type of oil to use and you would not use Mobil 1 which is EVIL.

 

Is that bout right?

 

:lol:

 

Oil threads are almost as good as grounding kit threads....

 

so what would be a less evil syn oil brand?

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I used to believe the thicker oils were better, but after having a few UOA's, they conclusively showed the 5w30 GTX dino & PP 5w30 did as well or better than the GC 0w30. Coming across some paper's written by a Dr AEhaas, significantly opened my eyes!

 

When you reverse the way you look at oil, it all makes sense. Engineer's design oil to not thicken when cold. I was always under the impression that it was the other way around. IT is well documented that most of the engine wear is seen at startup, so it makes logical sense to use as thin a oil as you can. But upon reading the articles further, I came to find that the difference between oil thickness at operating temp is not what the pure number's depict. Meaning, one notable thinoil M1 is 10.2cst, whereas a GC0w30 is 12.2cst, alludes to there being a 20% thickness difference. This is not true, and it actually is very little. Further, the HTHS figures are even less significant, because unless you're doing the Cannonball Run or Silver State, you will not see oil temps that come close to 150*c(302f), which is where the HTHS ratings are tested.

 

So, I have completely reversed my stance on oils, and am currently running PP 5w30. I now look for the 40*c cst rating, and cold flow pumping #'s. The 100*c and HTHS I could care less, as long as the oil is rated as a xW30. I might even drop to a 20W oil after seeing the UOA on my 5w30 setup. The Dr AEHaas actually runs M1 0w20 in his 575M Ferrari, and GC0w30 in his Enzo:eek: This guy did his homework, and is willing to back it up with following his own advice, on almost $1mil worth of vehicles!

 

So coming full circle, I guess the Subaru engineer's might perhaps know a bit more than we do, myself included. I'm just glad I came across this valuable insight, and proves there is always something to learn:)

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Just a few items of clarification....

 

1.) What we are talking about here is viscosity... not "thickness". Viscosity is a measurement of resistance to flow. cSt (Centistokes) and cPs (Centipoise) are common units of measurement for Viscosity. The higher the number, the more viscous the fluid.

 

2.) Motor oil is non-neutonian in nature.... meaning that it will change viscosity upon shearing. It will also change viscosity with temperature change... and this viscosity shift is not linear.

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