Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

Mobil 1 Good or Bad???


Recommended Posts

Your oil burning, unless significant is a result of the slippery nature of synthetic oils. My '05' OBXT uses a little during the course of the oils life. A qt. every oil change is a bit much. You didn't specify how much you consumed. Try Mobil semi-syn. It doesn't protect as well but is better than conventional. I have a '92' Toy PU w/240k on Royal Purple 5w30 and it doesn't use a drop between oil changes.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • Replies 324
  • Created
  • Last Reply

i got bored and read through a bunch of posts on this thread. Then I saw this, from Fall 07, and pissed my pants (and farted at the same time) :lol::lol:

 

The Best oil you could use is royal purple, it is expensive though.... i have been using it fr the last 30000 and it actually adds horsepower if you change your diff and gear oil with it too.... it adds 12 whp when you change all oils in your car with royal purple............. mobile one is inferior to this product.....period.. they have been doing oil and just oil for a very long time, my girlfriends dad used it when he had muscle cars..... look it up, royal purple... and dont be fooled by mobiles p.o.s. oil filters use k&n there 10x better

brian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
I maintain the factory recommended interval with synthetic oil.

 

really? not to be rude or anything, but doesnt that defeat the purpose of switching to synthetic? i thought that synthetic not only protects engine parts better but also lasts longer than regular oil.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Unless they specifically say Synthetic can go longer (which they don't, because Subaru does not recommend Synthetic oils) you must change at 3750 to keep warranty intact. And you can find plenty of threads on this site showing SOA can be very particular about warranty claims and service.
You're just jealous that the Voices talk to Me. :cool:
Link to comment
Share on other sites

^^ when doing your own maintenance, how would the dealer be able to prove whether your are changing at 3750, 5000, 7000, even 10000?! Unless there is a sludging problem or the oil is in ridiculously bad shape, it is very hard to prove!
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Note: the dealer does not have to prove that you are not following the recommended OCI, You have to prove that you were. So unless you have a buddy who has a garage and will give you a receipt for work that wasn't done, or you don't care about your warranty, just change it. Use Dino or syn as long as it's approved, and change it!
You're just jealous that the Voices talk to Me. :cool:
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

hello people,

 

I finally got the car of my dreams minus the rear spoiler that I hate, LGT 2005 white stain. It has about 45k miles on it and had two previous owners. I heard and experienced this on my 1992 mr2 where I switched to M1 at around 130k miles, it was fine so i'm guessing I can do the same to my LGT right? I stand by my M1 close to a decade and currently I even have it in my little 2004 scion xb which has 76k miles from driving around this country DC, SF, BC, Bangor, and down to Daytona. My shoebox features an oil change reminder set to 5-7.5k from the factory using 5-30w dino, but I use M1 because I plan to hit 1 million mile marker before bronzing this box that could. My question is doesn't turbocharged cars require something like a 20-50w? Maybe 5-30w M1 is too lean for a LGT, how about 10-30 M1?

 

For other fluids like steering, brake, diff, and tranny do you guys use synthetic?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Agreed, too thin.

 

Do a search of Shell Rotella T over at IWSTI and you may not use anything else again. Good Stuff...

 

BTW, oil lab results have already proven that the only M1 to consider is the EP versions.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=1586"VbGallery/URL]
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Maybe 5-30w M1 is too lean for a LGT, how about 10-30 M1?

 

For other fluids like steering, brake, diff, and tranny do you guys use synthetic?

 

If I am not mistaken 10w30 is even thinner than 5w30 at operational temperature.

 

Krzys

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No, it's the same.

10w and 5w is the oil viscosity at cold temps. 10 is more viscous

30 is the oil viscosity at high temp.

 

I belive krzyss is right. They are both 30 SAE grade, which is fairly wide spec.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So the issue is the 30 SAE grade, not the 5W or 10W. You are correct, there are 30 oils that are near 20 and 30 oils that are near 40. Mobil 1 is a near 20 oil ;) At least so I've been told.

 

Specs are available at mobil1.com.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use