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rao

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My latest avo380 tune with some unique tuning you might all appreciate.

 

The actuator is "lazy", at the moment it seems to me that the avo (among others) actuator has a different internal design than the OEM actuators that really makes them unsuitable for highly responsive ECU control. There's a very large delay in changing the pressure in the actuator which delays movement of the door, which means boost is slow to change in either direction. With my turbo this becomes an issue over 4000rpms where boost rises very quickly, even with no WGDC the actuator will not respond quickly enough to prevent a boost spike due to the internal volume. Based on this theory I've done the following to my tune, and it works incredibly well for "normal" driving - going WOT after a shift. Boost gauge needle looks like it hits a brick wall, and stays there. On a dyno it may be disappointing because you may never hit the WGDC plateau (look at TD proportional at 0 psi!!!). Spool in 3rd+ from a digg may be slow too, but no one does this outside of a dyno pull. The OEM actuators seemed to be designed around this but I simply haven't had the time to take one and modify it to fit the avo.. It will require a lot of welding a cutting that I don't have the time to do right now. If anyone can source me one, especially on that has a flat mounting plate attached (VF34's I think) feel free to let me know. TD integral is also set with maximum response values across the board - this is again mostly a function of the actuator volume. Pretty much sucks imho.

 

The other thing to notice is the primary fuel map, it's been modified to have stable cold start idle when you have TGV's deleted. The number you have to beat is 14.41, I turned mine up a bit to save fuel on cold start, but you could easily make this lower for better cold starts if necessary. Pay attention to the load columns. If this doesn't make your cold starts rock solid - replace your front O2 sensor.

avo380 rev92 legacygt.com.pdf

1381017807_avo380rev92legacygt.comfuel.png.a1187ab9cd58e3bf6b0fd77b37592a70.png

657411610_avo380rev92legacygt.comtdp.png.19bcaaafe9074d12289a29c82f0721d9.png

1803782076_avo380rev92legacygt.comtdi.png.710eba032bd38df800764ec4aab54e5e.png

Edited by Deer Killer
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My latest avo380 tune with some unique tuning you might all appreciate.

 

The actuator is "lazy", at the moment it seems to me that the avo (among others) actuator has a different internal design than the OEM actuators that really makes them unsuitable for highly responsive ECU control. There's a very large delay in changing the pressure in the actuator which delays movement of the door, which means boost is slow to change in either direction. With my turbo this becomes an issue over 4000rpms where boost rises very quickly, even with no WGDC the actuator will not respond quickly enough to prevent a boost spike due to the internal volume. Based on this theory I've done the following to my tune, and it works incredibly well for "normal" driving - going WOT after a shift. Boost gauge needle looks like it hits a brick wall, and stays there. On a dyno it may be disappointing because you may never hit the WGDC plateau (look at TD proportional at 0 psi!!!). Spool in 3rd+ from a digg may be slow too, but no one does this outside of a dyno pull. The OEM actuators seemed to be designed around this but I simply haven't had the time to take one and modify it to fit the avo.. It will require a lot of welding a cutting that I don't have the time to do right now. If anyone can source me one, especially on that has a flat mounting plate attached (VF34's I think) feel free to let me know. TD integral is also set with maximum response values across the board - this is again mostly a function of the actuator volume. Pretty much sucks imho.

 

The other thing to notice is the primary fuel map, it's been modified to have stable cold start idle when you have TGV's deleted. The number you have to beat is 14.41, I turned mine up a bit to save fuel on cold start, but you could easily make this lower for better cold starts if necessary. Pay attention to the load columns. If this doesn't make your cold starts rock solid - replace your front O2 sensor.

 

:eek:

 

And then there is...:eek:

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  • 1 month later...
Finally got my idle to go up to 900RPMs. Was back in an older Basemap doing as many critical changes as I could fit before hitting the byte limit; reflashed and it took this time. That and another little tweak to the TDC(upped lower RPMs to 4.02) keeps it from dipping too low when I put the clutch in and let the RPMs drop. The LWFW feels much better at idle and during shifts.
Let's kick this pig!
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  • 9 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Would Cobb Street Tuner for the '05 MT work for the '05 5EAT?

 

When life settles back down, live tuning would sure be nice for an eventual learning guy, along with RR of course! Even if it's completely unnecessary

[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
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Would Cobb Street Tuner for the '05 MT work for the '05 5EAT?

 

When life settles back down, live tuning would sure be nice for an eventual learning guy, along with RR of course! Even if it's completely unnecessary

 

Keep an eye on the for sale threads. A used copy of ST comes through there about once a month. Ther might even be one for an 05MT listed right now. Let me look and if it's still there; I'll post a link.

Let's kick this pig!
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  • 3 months later...
I got the AT program for free when they were giving it away for that limited time. Now I have a stock stage II map from cobb and i hate the studder issue. what causes that/can the use of the program help smooth it out? I want to learn how to do all that fancy tuning stuff it just all seems to complicated right now cuz ive never been able to play with it. Something about OEM O2 sensors aren't that accurate either?
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  • 1 month later...

well I finally got everything hooked up the other day and started logging and checking some things I couldnt before *knock etc*. I am very happy with atr so far and am enjoying putting a LOT of research and studying into real world situations. With the mods I have now and e85 it will be a blast to fine tune everything if possible over my protune. Plus I am already researching the hta68 ....;)

 

just figured I'd post my satisfaction...

 

Dave

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

Providing unmatched customer service and a Premium level of Dyno/E-tuning to the Community

 

cryotuneperformance@yahoo.com

facebook.com/cryotuneperformance.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
You can use RR to log with an ECU that is being tuned with ATR. I do it all the time.

 

But Cobb's AP dongle won't work with ROMRaider as far as I know. I bought a VAG-COM cable for $15, hopefully that will work when I get it.

 

EDIT : I was talking about using ATR to log maps made with Street Tuner. When I tried that just after ATR came out it didn't work, Cobb didn't support it.

Edited by Metal2You
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But Cobb's AP dongle won't work with ROMRaider as far as I know. I bought a VAG-COM cable for $15, hopefully that will work when I get it.

 

EDIT : I was talking about using ATR to log maps made with Street Tuner. When I tried that just after ATR came out it didn't work, Cobb didn't support it.

 

I think the vag-com will work, but I use a Tactrix cable.

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Does anyone know if its possible to import logs from atr into excel to view on airboy's spreadsheet? I cant even copy and paste logs in atr to "manually" make a sheet in excel. Am I missing something or is it just not possible? I know RR saves in excel format but I am trying to use atr as well for it.

 

Oh and on a side note, anyone know how to set the internal date on the ap v2 so logs done on that show the date instead of dec 5 2006?

 

Thanks in advance

 

Dave

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

Providing unmatched customer service and a Premium level of Dyno/E-tuning to the Community

 

cryotuneperformance@yahoo.com

facebook.com/cryotuneperformance.

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Does anyone know if its possible to import logs from atr into excel to view on airboy's spreadsheet? I cant even copy and paste logs in atr to "manually" make a sheet in excel. Am I missing something or is it just not possible? I know RR saves in excel format but I am trying to use atr as well for it.

 

Oh and on a side note, anyone know how to set the internal date on the ap v2 so logs done on that show the date instead of dec 5 2006?

 

Thanks in advance

 

Dave

 

RR saves in csv format, and so does ATR!;)

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RR saves in csv format, and so does ATR!;)

 

When I go into the folder to pull up my logs in atr they are all listed there. When I go to that same file outside of atr the files are not listed anywhere. I have no issues with the logs I pull up through the handheld accessport but only ones saved in atr. any suggestions?

 

*since it seems its possible I will keep trying but I have tried almost everything I can think of* Its not mandatory just kind of irritating.

 

Dave

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

Providing unmatched customer service and a Premium level of Dyno/E-tuning to the Community

 

cryotuneperformance@yahoo.com

facebook.com/cryotuneperformance.

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When I go into the folder to pull up my logs in atr they are all listed there. When I go to that same file outside of atr the files are not listed anywhere. I have no issues with the logs I pull up through the handheld accessport but only ones saved in atr. any suggestions?

 

*since it seems its possible I will keep trying but I have tried almost everything I can think of* Its not mandatory just kind of irritating.

 

Dave

 

I have tuned a few cars with ATR, and I have no trouble getting the csv logs from the folder that ATR puts them (which I change FWIW) and using them in excell.

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mabye I need to change the default folder to something other than the atr folder itself. thanks for at least confirming its possible, I will find a way.

 

Dave

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

Providing unmatched customer service and a Premium level of Dyno/E-tuning to the Community

 

cryotuneperformance@yahoo.com

facebook.com/cryotuneperformance.

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  • 1 month later...
I have a stock stage II map from cobb and i hate the studder issue. what causes that/can the use of the program help smooth it out?

 

edit: the studder happens when applying power after a shift or going from light to moderate/heavy throttle

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  • 1 month later...
I didn't read all the pages so maybe I missed it, but can some one tell me how to turn off check engine codes with access tuner race. I just got the soft ware and haven't had time to play around with it so I guess I'm just being lazy. what I'm really trying to accomplish it to turn off check engine lights that im going to get when I install my KS Tech 2nd emissions delete kit. thanks for any help you can give.
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Look under the EDIT drop menu and select ADVANCED PARAMETERS. It will bring up a window that lists all the DTC codes. Items with a check mark will NOT set of the Check Engine Light. Hope this helps...
Let's kick this pig!
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  • 11 months later...

load scaling/ rpm scaling...

 

how do you have your maps scaled?

what rpm points do you use, what load points do you use?

(do you break it up more during spool or not? )

 

What points do you have your rev-limiter set at?

 

Injector scaleing... micro seconds per gram of load for stoich fueling?

why the hell would you define it that way?

 

my avcs table stops at 4800.. at this point it should be pretty much 0ed out but should i spread it out at all later for future... larger turbos?

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  • 1 month later...

I've got a 2008 LGT with a Cobb downpipe and AVO piping and mufflers and a K & N intake, everything else is stock at this point. I've recently purchased a Cobb AP as well. I was told that the Stage II map wouldn't quite do the trick and I'd need another map. I'm no expert in this department so any help would be great. If I do need another map, anyone out there know the best place to get one? And anything else I may need to look out for?

 

Thanks a bunch in advance.

Brad

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