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So, you want to drive your 15 year old LGT to a meet eh?


KZJonny

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If you look at the orientation of the sensor holes in the diagram, the last picture shows that the adapter would actually upside down in the last picture. So, where you see the black o-ring is actually where the oil filter is supposed to be. FYI - I pulled that black o-ring off an old oil filter and it fits perfectly on the sandwich plate. Also, I wonder why they would design the adapter so "Greddy" is read upside-down when installed correctly.

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Bessie II's Thread

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9 minutes ago, Enlight said:

If you look at the orientation of the sensor holes in the diagram, the last picture shows that the adapter would actually upside down in the last picture. So, where you see the black o-ring is actually where the oil filter is supposed to be. FYI - I pulled that black o-ring off an old oil filter and it fits perfectly on the sandwich plate. Also, I wonder why they would design the adapter so "Greddy" is read upside-down when installed correctly.

I usually trust that the designer would have the logo straight/forward/right side up/etc, but have also seen strange scenarios where it was the opposite. I don't see any other way for it to fit than to have the logo upside down.  Maybe it's also for top mount oil filters and is right side up when on the top of the engine where you can see it?

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If that's the case, the manual is indeed mistaken. It's impossible for the holes to have the same orientation as the manual and for the logo to be upside down. It looks to me like you're both right, @m sprank and @Infosecdad. The gasket is $4.00 with $10 shipping - I hate it when online stores do that. I'm looking for the correct o-ring elsewhere.

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Bessie II's Thread

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So,  I need a new pcv, it blew out my oil pan seals, going to need to redo oil pan as well. I also need a new engine harness, cause I spliced my top injector plugs in and they said that causes impedance issues, so it's best to get the adapters. 

 

So:

PCV, Engine Harness, P&P injector adapters, and redo oil pan. 

 

Not so bad. Heading home to jump on the internet a d start ordering parts

 

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Considering they didn't give a sht about my tgv's and all the blah blah blah, I'll take it. This shop does good work, found them through a friend, their lot had like 20 wrxs, and a bunch were for the track. I'm just glad I found a legit shop.

I'm just dreading doing the oil pan again... my header is an absolute pita to install. 

Anyone know how to test a pcv valve? I don't even think I put 5k miles on it and its shot, I just want to make sure thats all it is and not something else. 

Just ordered the PCV, now to find a harness.... figured I could get one on ebay for around 100 bucks vs a new one for 300+, but I'm seeing any used harnesses. Anyone got a lead?  

Just ordered the connectors for DW , 40 bucks shipped for 4. CAlling them got me a cheaper price it looks like. 

https://deatschwerks.com/products/conn-us-sum?_pos=1&_sid=3224cb09b&_ss=r

 

Now I just need the harness, car-part it is.... I would have prefered ebay, cause not all the junk yards ship stuff. 

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Ordered a used harness for 160 shipped! Now I wait!  

I just changed the damn oil yesterday too..... also ordered some more jugs of rotella and some cheap oil filters. 

So 160 for harness, 40 for plug adapters, 45 for pcv. 245 bucks isn't bad. I'll take it.  Plus the 350 deposit for scheduling the tune, which i lost, but i'll chalk that up to paying for some pro's to point out some issues. Meh gotta pay to play. 

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So, obviously all chatter is fine, but trying to keep this somewhat on topic, and about "To Do" lists and repairs and joking about prep for the East Coast Meet.

@Tehnation I hope I just missed it, but are you signing on for the ECM now? Is this a mad rush to get the GT ready for a June road trip?

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Attempt #1 to fix the headlights was a bit of a disaster.

My first time ever using clear coat on a thing, and the results were pretty bad. half the lenses were orange peel and the rest looked like mud after being baked in the sun. Cracked and shattered looking. Pretty sure my basement wasn't quite warm enough, and it each coat didn't flash off well enough before the next went on. More than likely used too heavy of a coat on each layer as well.

Live and learn. Sanded it all back down last evening, and will have a go again this weekend. Supposed to be 16+ degrees Celcius and sunny all weekend, so I can probably do it outside, cover it with some plastic sheeting between coats and get better results. Glad I was trying this out with a can of 1K clear rather than the single use 2K can where you only get an hour before it hardens up.

Definitely need some kind of headlights to drive down, *hah!*, so hopefully I can get this right, or I'll be stealing the ones from the OBW for the trip!!

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41 minutes ago, KZJonny said:

So, obviously all chatter is fine, but trying to keep this somewhat on topic, and about "To Do" lists and repairs and joking about prep for the East Coast Meet.

@Tehnation I hope I just missed it, but are you signing on for the ECM now? Is this a mad rush to get the GT ready for a June road trip?

Yes, I want to go to the meet, but I have to make sure the car can actually get there lol. 

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Re-finishing head lamps is like refinishing a vinyl floor in the 70's.  I got lots of practice "refinishing" the plastic body parts of my off road bikes.  You are basically wet sanding plastic and then re-sealing it like a linoleum floor. 

Way back, I used to offer headlight modification services and shipped more than a few sets to forum members.  I had cores for 4th gens I took so many orders. 

If you hit a brick wall, PM me.

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I feel the headlight drama. In order to free up my 05 headlights I need to sand and clear coat my post face lift lights. I have the front lens removed right now to get rid of the amber reflector so sanding and painting should be less (slightly) cumbersome. What headlight paint are you using? I was going to use spraymax 3684068 after a lot of sanding

Wagon is LIFE! - 265,000 miles and climbing

Unofficial Build (Restoration) Thread

Steering Rack Rebuild

 

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7 minutes ago, m sprank said:

Re-finishing head lamps is like refinishing a vinyl floor in the 70's.  I got lots of practice "refinishing" the plastic body parts of my off road bikes.  You are basically wet sanding plastic and then re-sealing it like a linoleum floor. 

Way back, I used to offer headlight modification services and shipped more than a few sets to forum members.  I had cores for 4th gens I took so many orders. 

If you hit a brick wall, PM me.

Cheers dude! Will do. I'll have one more go with better general conditions and the clear coat, and if that bombs, I'll write you up.

I know I can progressively sand up to like 2-3K grit and then just polish, seal and maybe add ceramic but I wanted to try the clearcoat method once and see how it holds up.

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1 minute ago, jaylew said:

I feel the headlight drama. In order to free up my 05 headlights I need to sand and clear coat my post face lift lights. I have the front lens removed right now to get rid of the amber reflector so sanding and painting should be less (slightly) cumbersome. What headlight paint are you using? I was going to use spraymax 3684068 after a lot of sanding

I picked up some Dominion Sure Seal brand 1k clear. Used a little adhesion promoter on the sanded plastic first. I believe it is a Canadian brand, so I don't know if there is any equivalent in the US. Their product line is generally considered good up here.

This was a dry run to prove the concept and get the technique down. Utimately the idea was to get a spraycan of 2k clear with the poppit bubble in it and do them with that, which should give very long service. But at like $35 for a spraybomb that is only good for an hour, that's mucho dinero. Hence my screwing it up with the cheap stuff being a much better learning experience than going for the gusto first round.

We will see. This is why I wanted a spare set of headlight I can work on, and still be able to drive the car(s). I also kind of think that the tried and true method of sanding up through to ultra fine grit then coating can work better these days with the proliferation of high quality and affordable ceramic coating. The old "headlight restoration" kits did a good job of cleaning up the lenses, but I always found the coating wasn't good enough to prevent further UV damage pretty soon after, and I don't want to be re-coating my headlight 2-3x a year.

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@KZJonny I know a popular approach is to scream YNASB whenever one gets a single misfire but I have had great luck with Cerakote kit for 07 Tribeca and 10 OB headlights.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084RQKLV8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It does not of course going to last a lifetime of the vehicle but it puts a hard clear coat on and lasts about 2 seasons here in New England.

Just saying.

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2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

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2 minutes ago, SubOperator said:

@KZJonny I know a popular approach is to scream YNASB whenever one gets a single misfire but I have had great luck with Cerakote kit for 07 Tribeca and 10 OB headlights.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084RQKLV8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It does not of course going to last a lifetime of the vehicle but it puts a hard clear coat on and lasts about 2 seasons here in New England.

Just saying.

No, that's great to hear! I was looking at the Griots/Cerakote which are supposedly the same manufacture. Couldn't kind any testimonials about them really tho, so I was kind of going with tried and true. (clearcoat).

Every 2 years or so to do a cut and polish + recoat with ceramic is reasonable to me.

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So I just got my used harness, and I realized that the connectors already work on my injectors.... I think I went down a rabbit hole and butchered my current harness for no reason a while back lol..... no need for adapters.... sigh... 

Do the top feed and side feed use the same plug connector? Or is it my injectors that accept both? 

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