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BDCVG lost cylinder #4 so here We go


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20 hours ago, Max Capacity said:

Back in Aug 04 I replaced the stock rear tranny mount with a solid STI mount, I think it was $64.00 That did a nice job of holding the 5mt in place but had no increase in noise.

A couple of years back, I replaced the other two bushings on the tranny H frame mount, and those added noises. The wagon taught me years ago, to push in the clutch, put the tranny in neutral, coast to stop sign, etc. rather than leave it in gear to decelerate. 

 

A few of us have posted about the 1940's truck transmission noise.

Yeah I did some thinking last night and realized I hardly ever decel in gear. I may heel and toe to rev match but unless I'm in 5th on the highway I automatically snick into neutral. I am only doing it now for break-in. I am a notorious coaster. The noise was probably there but I wasn't listening for it or creating it.  Take-offs from a dead stop are awesome with the stiffer mounts. Even with a spankin new clutch.

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19 hours ago, Max Capacity said:

Deleting old files today, I found this,

 

Subaru SB whine in tranny.pdf 637.88 kB · 2 downloads

To bad it's not a recall like the airbags were. I just told the Wife what the final cost was including future oil changes and the E-tune.  I'm in trouble......again.

Edited by bdcvg
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I definately feel I must have damaged something in the tranny during engine install. It was a battle getting everything to line up. The whine during decel in gear is too pronounced to have not been heard before and I don't think the Group N mounts could have made that much difference. Outback trannies are scarce at junkyards so trying to decide what direction to go. Leaning towards drive it until it breaks. I am almost to the 500 mile oil change otherwise car is great at least below 4000 rpm and no boost it's great.

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Also, if you only changed the engine mounts the noise could be worse due to a misalignment. 

New engine mounts but worn tranny mount, drive shaft mounts, rear diff mounts, rear diff cradle, etc. Its a driveline, not a single unit. I have replaced a single front half shaft and then had to replace the opposite as the new caused vibration from imbalance. Old cup and bearings worn enough to cause an alignment issue. Subies are notorious for it, most shops just dont understand as they are unfamiliar with assymetrical awd. 

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Ohh I see. Well I will continue to look into it then. The Group N tranny mount went in Thurs. and the noise did not change but I can get reverse without double clutching now so that's fun. I will examine the driveshaft stuff next.

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Problem figured out. After reading threads for hours about similar noise on other forums a common fix appeared to be tire pressures. I then realized the car was sitting on the loft for 2 1/2 months and I haven't checked the tires in a while. They were way off. I went with My  normal 32 frt 30 rr and took a drive. Noise greatly reduced. Huh, maybe dumb luck. Increased cold pressure to 35 frt and 32 rr and presto. Noise 90% gone. I have to guess that the pressure difference side to side was making the differential work harder than normal to accomodate different tire diameters.

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Asking about your trouble going into reverse. What fluid is in the tranny ?

I use Motul Gear 300 and 98% of the time the 5mt went into reverse on the first try. Sometimes on first start up in the morning, I'd have to double clutch.

The 6mt in the Spec, goes in great every time. Got to love these 1940's truck transmissions, 5mt.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Hit 1000 miles today. Last 300 I had to do a highway trip in a snow squall. Coolant temp started to bounce around 210-215 when normal was 185-200. Will I was freaking out about it quietly I looked over at the car next to Me. The front end was caked with about 3 inches of hard packed slush. Light bulb on in My head and a rest stop in 2 miles. Sure enough front end caked enough to kill air flow to radiator. Knocked it all off and temps back to normal. MPG 24-25 with no more than 5 lbs boost and RPM below 4000. 

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Got My first tuning maps in today. Initial was low boost to verify there is no boost creep. That went well so next map got Me up to around 16 psi boost. Runs good, steady strong thrust and no hesitation around the 23-2500 rpm stumble spot.  I will continue to be easy on it until next maps get sent but so far so good.

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  • 3 weeks later...

On revision 3 map now. Will get data logs out tomorrow so haven't tested this map yet. The MPG is still 3-4 mpg better than old engine. I only did a simple compression test on the old engine. In hindsight I should have done leakdown which would have revealed the bad sealing exhaust valves on #4 . I could have gotten away with head work and a rebuild on the turbo. 

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3 hours ago, bdcvg said:

On revision 3 map now. Will get data logs out tomorrow so haven't tested this map yet. The MPG is still 3-4 mpg better than old engine. I only did a simple compression test on the old engine. In hindsight I should have done leakdown which would have revealed the bad sealing exhaust valves on #4 . I could have gotten away with head work and a rebuild on the turbo. 

I spent coin on my 2001's rebuilt. Sourcing a different block and heads to 'drag and drop'.  Yeah, the low compression I had found was caused by whoever did the timing belt got the right side cam one tooth retarded.

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That's going to be fun. Make sure you leave extra room on the highway, your closing speed comes much quicker now. Learned that years ago.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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  • 1 month later...

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