BDCVG lost cylinder #4 so here We go

[Max Capacity]

Sorry, I'm confused about your smfw, Do you have a picture of the back side of it 

 

"My car has the bolt on backing plate behind flywheel"   

 

I don't recall even seeing that on the back of the 08 Legacy GT smfw I had. I tried to look back in my pictures,  but couldn't find any photos) as I sold it to a member on here a few years back. I put the SPec lwfw back in the car. 

For reference, here's the Spec lwfw this is when I pulled the engine back in April 2012, and the new friction surface bolted to it.

 

[m sprank]

You should be fine.  You said you checked valve clearance so I must assume the machinist installed the buckets correctly. 

[m sprank]

Just for you Max.  OEM DMFW and SMFW backsides.  Side by side. 

[Max Capacity]

Thanks, I do recall what the dmfw looked like, but don't recall the Subaru smfw I bought back on March 3 2015 @ 203,233 miles, had all that going on, on the back side.  I didn't write  down in my notebook for the wagon exactly which FW I bought, but sure it was from a 08 LGT. I thought it looked like a normal solid smfw. 

 

I think Jaylaw is who I sold it too. 

[bdcvg]

Oh lucky Me. I am ready to put the long block back in the car. All I had left was flywheel,pressure plate , disc and the motor mounts to go. As I begin to tighten motor mounts using the required 29.5 ft lbs of course the mount cracks. Why I thought 14 year old mounts would be re-usable, I don't know. New ones will be here next week. Meantime I will be playing in traffic.

[m sprank]

Sorry to hear of your pains. 

 

If you plan on keeping the car, replace everything you can afford that is a wear item while the engine is out. 

[bdcvg]

I have a brand new Subaru clutch fork to install but now I wonder if it will handle the ACT SB5-HDSS pressure plate. The old one showed very little wear on it.

[m sprank]

Should not have an issue.  Dont need overkill, OEM will work fine and should last longer than the clutch.  Most failures reported were re-used through several clutches (a point missed by the interwebs).

[bdcvg]

Here's something I should maybe have thought of. The oil line mod. My screens were clean when I took the motor apart and I removed them from  the banjos but I should have considered the oil line mod.

[m sprank]

Also overkill. Ask me how I know, lol.

[bdcvg]

Yeah the problem is while I wait for the motor mounts I have too much time to stare and think. I have a lot of $$ involved and I  don't want to blow something up. I think with Outback gearing the car is gonna be a rocket from 20-80 mph and be quite aggressive at highway speeds. Maybe I will even keep around 23 mpg at cruise if I am lucky.

[Max Capacity]

I'm still on the stock oil feed line to my turbo, with both banjo filters removed.

[bdcvg]

Cool. I did decide to add the Grimmspeed AOS. 

[bdcvg]

Trying now to decide on which throw out bearing to use. The ACT is just a little different than a new OEM. Not sure that it's any stronger just a slightly different design.

[m sprank]

The best 5mt tob is the one that stays perpendicular to the snout  as it operates and wears.  

 

If a gs aos works for you, your car does not need an aos.  If your car needs an aos, a gs will not work it might starve your engine of oil. 

[bdcvg]

So on a new motor the AOS is not needed? Or the GS one just isn't that good? I will slide each TOB I have on the snout and see if one has less play. I will also try to caliper them both. My snout has no wear at all.

Edited September 28, 2022 by bdcvg

[m sprank]

Short of a catastrophic tob failure (rare) damage is caused by grooving of the snout as the bearing rides at an angle other than perpendicular and wears into the aluminum. 

 

Never seen a subie that made less than 27psi and actually needed an aos.  High rpm, high boost extended period of time.  Otherwise it's just unnecessary bling.

[m sprank]

High rpm, high boost, high g turn and the gs aos starves the engine of oil.  FAIL. Track proven. 

[bdcvg]

Awesome info. The AOS will be on ebay by next week. Lol. Obviously I did too much reading. My build is stricly fun / medium distance hauler/ DD.

[bdcvg]

ok motor mounts here. Time to put it back under the hood.

[m sprank]

The easy part of the job.  Back into your home engine. Time for "sexy time" with the transmission. 

[bdcvg]

Update  # 483 The motor mounts are crap so I sent them back and ordered Group "N" mounts. Gave Me time to check everything for the 5th time.  If anybody is interested the I.D. of the ACT throw out bearing where it slides on the tranny snout is 1.312 in.  The OEM beaing is 1.306 in.  I'll take less play for 30$ Alex.

[bdcvg]

So if I am not breaking in new cams just rings, is break-in oil that needed? I am thinking start it on Dino oil , run for 30 secs or so. Turn it off and fix leaks then run it to operating temp say 10-15 mins, turn it of and change oil and filter with Dino again. Then drive it 1000 miles of below 3500 rpm and changing speeds to seat rings fully. Then Motul synthetic. I have a break in tune in the Cobb AP ready to go.

Edited October 7, 2022 by bdcvg

[m sprank]

Smh.  Wow.  People really have no clue how to break in an engine. Yes, blocks need break in.  No your procedure is not proper.  It is about heat cycles and resistance.  I used to provide a written break in procedure to all engine customers.  I will search and see if I still have it to post. 

Edited October 7, 2022 by m sprank

[bdcvg]

Cool, Thanks a ton. Trying to research it and there are about 5 different approaches. My rebuild / break-in experience is limited to AMC V -8's. IAG has some info on their website but that seems more geared to new cams and forged pistons.