BDCVG lost cylinder #4 so here We go

[m sprank]

I cant find the original doc.  I did find portions of it written out on invoices.  This is a "pieced together" version adding some notes for general knowledge.

 

Start up and break in procedure:

No fuel or spark.  Turn over engine (10-15 second intervals) to build oil pressure and "prime".  Once oil light turns off, perform visual check.  Start engine and run at 2500rpm for 10minutes.  Shut down and let fully cool.  Change oil.

Recommended break in is 3000 miles driven under normal conditions, do not use synthetic oils during break-in.  Good quality multi-grade oils such as Motul 10/40 break-in oil,  Valvoline or Castrol are recommended.  Oil change with filter at 100, 500, 1000, 2000, and 3000 miles. At 3000 miles you can switch to synthetic oils. For the first 500 – 1000 miles avoid long periods of time at the same RPM such as freeway driving. You should vary through the RPM and gear range. Engine breaking is recommended.  Stock boost is fine, avoid high boost/high load situations.

 

Good to know notes for an engine replacement:

If the short block was replaced because of rod, main or turbo bearing failure, the oil cooler must be replaced!!!

Make sure to clean the turbo drain/feed hoses and nipples before installation.

If the short block was replaced because of piston failure, the intake manifold, exhaust manifolds and cylinder ports must be cleaned and free of debris. Remove the throttle body from the intake to access and clean the plenum of the intake.

I recommend an oil pump of at least a #10 found in the upper left corner of the pump when looking at it. Do not use #7 or #9 pumps. The number refers to the millimeter thickness of the gears inside.

On high performance engines, oil pressure will generally be lower at idle than stock engines as the bearing clearances are enlarged  for sustained higher engine RPM operation. If your engine is assembled with high performance pistons, oil consumption can possibly be higher than normal due to a larger piston to cylinder wall clearance (one quart per 800 miles).  If your engine was assembled with stock style pistons, oil consumption of up to one quart per 1200 miles is considered within spec, per Subaru’s’ warranty policy 8.4.29.

 

 

 

Edited October 7, 2022 by m sprank

[bdcvg]

OK that's pretty close to the V8 break-in I've used in the past. Only difference of course is hydraulic lifters vs. cams on top of the valves. Thanks again for posting this, it will be easy to follow. Question , what's the best way to disable spark? I can't remember if the cam position sensor is reachable with the alternator in place.

[m sprank]

Pull the fuel pump fuse.  If you turn the key to the "on" position with fuse pulled the pump will never prime.  Fuel will drain and evaporate from the lines when the engine is pulled.  Should be zero fuel in the lines or at the injectors.  Pull wires from coil packs, no spark.  I have small hands and can easily plug back in the packs.  Engine wont be hot.  Your just building oil pressure, lubing the moving parts and giving yourself a chance to leak check with some pressure.  This also primes the turbo with oil. 

[bdcvg]

I though about the coil packs but in an Outback the driver side is really hard to get to. I have the fuel pump fuse out and lines drained. I also picked this opportunity to add an oil pressure gauge so I can see when it gets primed. The motor mounts are here so tomorrow the dance begins. Hopefully get the initial start Sunday.  

[m sprank]

My hands still fit in an OBXT engine bay between the frame rail and the head.  What can I say?  I am about the size of an average Japanese man, so I fit Japanese cars well. 

 

For a fresh start up, crank the engine (not continuously) until the engine oil lamp (on dash) turns off.  At this point, you have good pressure. 

[bdcvg]

Yeah I figure 15-20 second bursts til pressured.

[m sprank]

As a good rule of thumb (for every start up) key to "on position" let the gauges complete their sweep prior to moving to "start".  ECM is finalizing its pre-start checks during gauge sweep and it gives the fuel pump some time to prime as well. 

[bdcvg]

Yes I always do that anyway. Thanks again for all the tips. I don't wanna screw this up it turned out to be about 20% more expensive than I thought.

[m sprank]

Engines, even stock rebuilds, are NOT cheap.  There are always unforseen extra expenses.  I used to build in a $200 buffer to cma and I did it for a living.  Any advice I can give that saves someone else head and heartache is gladly given. 

[bdcvg]

of all the bolts for bell housing to block 2 are longer. I thought they were for the starter but the lower one bottoms out before getting to starter flange. So which holes do the 2 longer bolts go into?

The last 1\4 inch of gap between bell and block I had to pull together with the bolts. There wasn't a lot of resistance so I'm guessing that was throw out fingers from pressure plate pushing back?

Edited October 8, 2022 by bdcvg

[bdcvg]

OK long bolts are for starter so I'll clean threads and try again. I went back through the removal procedure and see that I forgot to remove the clutch slave hence the last little bit of resistance. Hopefully I didn't screw up the pilot bearing.

[m sprank]

As long as you only used hand tools (no air) and there was minimal resistance you are fine.  You would know if there was bind using hand tools.  A small gap needing to use two main bolts to bring together is not unusual. 

[bdcvg]

Sweet, that's the way it went in took very little effort with a short box wrench and only enough room for about 1/8th of a turn.

[bdcvg]

OK sorted out the bell housing bolt issue. Spent 5 hours trying to figure out why driver side engine mount stud won't line up with cross member slot. Finally discovered the axle shaft was wedged in the CV joint and pushing the motor to the side. Took off the upper camber bolt from strut and clunk , engine mount in. Tested half shaft everything moving smooth put in all back together. Now for re-assembly of everything else.

[bdcvg]

Soooo close. Fuel line from tank to TB will not stay attached to the metal feed hose.   Gotta rig up something quick.

[bdcvg]

OK tomorrow is start up day. It's raining too hard here now to try it.

[Max Capacity]

Good Luck.

I don't understand why the fuel line wouldn't stay connected. It should just push over the bump and clamp. But I didn't remove that line on mine. Just pulled the fuel lines off the left shock tower.

[bdcvg]

It appears that the 2 plastic "fins" that click against the flare have lost their gumption so I get no "click"  Also looking down into the fitting the O-ring looks pretty beat up, maybe I got too aggressive with the quick disconnect tool.  8$ worth of 5/16 injector line and a specific clamp from NAPA fixed it.

[Max Capacity]

Yeap, I hate that QD idea. That's why I chose to loosen the screw type gas line clamps on the shock tower. WAY easier IMO.

 

For others, see the upper right side of the picture.

 

 

[bdcvg]

Can't get oil pressure. cranked for 10 seconds about 10 times and light still on. Gauge I added shows nothing but I can"t verify it even works.

[bdcvg]

Fixed oil pressure issue only to discover oil coming out of driver side , front where head meets block. Bizarre. So while I remove the engine does anybody have any ideas ? Warped head? Bad gasket? Bad torque job?

[bdcvg]

Will a retorque fix this or do I take it all apart ?

[Max Capacity]

Maybe take a feeler gauge and try poking it in around the leaks area...? See if its a gap or a crack ?

Hated to read that...

 

When cranking the engine over for oil pressure, it takes a long time, much longer than you think it needs.  A good 30-45 seconds at cranking rpm., if not more.

[silverton]

Can you get pictures?  could it be coming from the AVCS banjo bolt that feeds from behind the timing cover? If it's actually coming from the head gasket it'll need to be taken apart again and redone with a new gasket.  Sorry I haven't been following this thread, did you get the heads surfaced?

I've had to crank some motors an excruciating amount of time to get the pressure light to turn off.

[bdcvg]

I did get heads re-surfaed. I had the wife crank the engine after removing A/C pump and ALT. I was able to see oil come up from the oil passage between block and head. It seeps right from the mating surface.  I found the trick to pressurizing oil system was remove oil filter and put a pan under the threads. 2 cranks and the oil pump primes much quicker, put pre-filled filter back on and pressure instant. Found that at Flat Irons tuning website.  I hope it's just a bad gasket. I looked them over for kinks bends etc. and saw nothing.